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Thread: Polofours s14a

  1. #21
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    major update.

    spotted this in the back end of the drivers sill,



    poked it and it turned into this.





    sooooooo... plans are obviously on hold for a bit, new steel is ordered and should be here soon, am focusing on stripping the car so i can get it on a rotating spit, will cut the rot out and replace it all. its a pretty mega job but if i do it right it will be good for another 18 years.

    the lads are coming round tomorrow afternoon/evening to get the rest of the strip done might even start to get the jig welded up.

  2. #22
    Member sx rider's Avatar
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    Sorry to see the rust is so bad on your car mate, hope you manage to fix her up!

  3. #23
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    what steel you will use to weld those rotten places ???

  4. #24
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    will get her fixed up, @wwc_gang i will use 20g mild steel for the skin and probably 18g steel for the inside and more structural pieces, especially round the bottom of the B pillar. will post the photos of the passenger side if it stops raining and i can get out there to take some.

  5. #25
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    reason i asked what steel you will use because i need to do my car to and i was not sure what steel thickness to use.[IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #26
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    oh snap! looks like yours tracks abit further forwards than mine, top tip, when you remove those L shape braces DONT use the impact gun, i didnt think about it before i did it and i ripped the anchor nuts out

    most of the steel that i have cut out has been just under 1mm, which is 20g, that thickness is easy to shape. if you havent already got them, a bender, hammers and dollys and a roller have been invaluable to me so far, and i am ordering a shrinker/stretcher and bead roller so i can do the sills more easily. i will post loads of updates of all my trials and errors, this is a problem thats only going to get more common. so people should see how to rectify it,

    i am not a metalworker by trade, i am an avionics engineer, so circuits and wires and crap, i have taught myself how to weld and am still learning tons about metal work with every hour i spend in my garage.

    EDIT: put a link to your build thread in here if you have one!

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    oh snap! looks like yours tracks abit further forwards than mine, top tip, when you remove those L shape braces DONT use the impact gun, i didnt think about it before i did it and i ripped the anchor nuts out

    most of the steel that i have cut out has been just under 1mm, which is 20g, that thickness is easy to shape. if you havent already got them, a bender, hammers and dollys and a roller have been invaluable to me so far, and i am ordering a shrinker/stretcher and bead roller so i can do the sills more easily. i will post loads of updates of all my trials and errors, this is a problem thats only going to get more common. so people should see how to rectify it,

    i am not a metalworker by trade, i am an avionics engineer, so circuits and wires and crap, i have taught myself how to weld and am still learning tons about metal work with every hour i spend in my garage.

    EDIT: put a link to your build thread in here if you have one!
    daunt have one yet. will wait for your pictures and then will start to do my car.

  8. #28
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    Looks like a nice project that mate. Any more pics of the R32 as well??

    Make sure you check up near the rear turret tops too, I've just had mine up on its side so I could do some welding/replace the sills etc and had to do a bit of work up there. There isn't anywhere safe from rot on these!

  9. #29
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeshaw123 View Post
    Looks like a nice project that mate. Any more pics of the R32 as well??

    Make sure you check up near the rear turret tops too, I've just had mine up on its side so I could do some welding/replace the sills etc and had to do a bit of work up there. There isn't anywhere safe from rot on these!
    can you stick a picture up of where? i dont remember seeing any rust in the rear turret tops but will go out and double check those areas now.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    can you stick a picture up of where? i dont remember seeing any rust in the rear turret tops but will go out and double check those areas now.






    It's worth noting that my rear arches were particularly rusty - I think this indicates the likelihood of rear turrets being an issue. If your rear arches/rear pockets aren't too bad then you may get away with it. My sills and floor weren't as bad as yours at all, but I had to replace a full rear pocket and chop loads out of the rear arches. Loads of pics in my build thread if you want a better look. Hope it's not too bad for you!!

  11. #31
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    will have a look in those areas tomorrow, i havent seen rust there on any of mine before (this is my third 14a) will scrub the stone chip of and double check for sure. will dig out some pics of the GTR it was pretty standard looking, had some engine work done and was at the 440 mark which made it batpoop crazy.

  12. #32
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    Great project bud, ace to see you have ago with the metal work and fabrication! done a fair bit of welding and ive used Cougar 20 which is for heavy steel but still works well with thin stuff, also a bottle of ferromaxx knee height bottles which are cheap and also weld great. obviously it depends on wire, if its coated or not but it might be a cheaper alternative for you looking forward to more progress!

  13. #33
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    yeah i am binning off the disposables, will probably get a bottle through adams gas, no bottle rental then am currently drawing up plans for a chassis tilter as i dont really want to pay a grand for one!!

  14. #34
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    well....

    huge thanks to everyone who has helped me with my rust bucket

    managed to get the underside stripped down in record time (thanks bill and james)



    and checked the places others had pointed out for rust and so far all looks good in those areas

    however, taking off that stupid angled bracket at the front of the rear subframe on the passengers side with the impact gun aaaaannnd...



    the impact gun pretty much ripped the ass out of the passenger sill. at least i know i have to fix both sides now

    the chassis tilter is looking like its going to be V.expensive, everyone says "make one" or you can get them cheaper than that. THEN THEY SEE THE ANGLE AND TWIST IN MY DRIVE!! and say "oh yeah i see what you mean now..." so i am going to sell some of my parts they are u p in the for sale section...

    will be putting loads more goodies up tonight so keep an eye out.

  15. #35
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    Just a quick note on rebuilding those captive nuts for the subframe boomerangs... If you're going to polybush or solidly mount your subframe, don't even bother replacing the captive nut, just repair that area and put the boomerang braces in the bin.

    They don't fit right with polys or solid bushes anyway and its a faf getting the captive nut located in the right place. I spent a bit of time lining them up and welding them where they are supposed to go and ended up not using them anyway!

  16. #36
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    ^^^^ not true, I have solids and they fit fine


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeshaw123 View Post
    Just a quick note on rebuilding those captive nuts for the subframe boomerangs... If you're going to polybush or solidly mount your subframe, don't even bother replacing the captive nut, just repair that area and put the boomerang braces in the bin.

    They don't fit right with polys or solid bushes anyway and its a faf getting the captive nut located in the right place. I spent a bit of time lining them up and welding them where they are supposed to go and ended up not using them anyway!
    this is some thing i will look at as i had to cut one boomerang (top name for them) into three pieces to get it out

    i was going to make my own brace from 3mm plate, but if they are not needed i probably wont bother. what do they actually do anyway? just brace the rear subframe to the sill?

  18. #38
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    Mine just weren't sitting flush with the body how they were supposed to after fitting the poly subframe mounts, so I just took them off. Can't say I noticed any change whatsoever, other than the massive increase in feel from fitting the polybushes and all the other stuff I did.

  19. #39
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    well in that case i will just chin them off, i have Driftworks Solid subframe bushes anyway. it will make the sill easier to rebuild without putting that nut in.

  20. #40
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    Its a brace it has a reason to be there. I have poly bushes and them still fitted.

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