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Thread: Polofours s14a

  1. #201
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raygunn View Post
    Nice, keep going, I need the inspiration! what are the dimensions of the car and jig? I am treading the same path but have only just started upon it.
    The jig with the car on is 4900 long, 1350 wide (with the car on its side) and 1900 high (again with the car on its side) hope that helps, all I can say is that I will never weld on my back again! being able to lay good welds on the underside of the car (structural stuff) is the way forward!


    Quote Originally Posted by jbsauce View Post
    How much did you pay for your roll over jig mate? Where's it from?
    It wasn't cheap, £1100 delivered from FROST they guys there are brilliant and have been really helpful getting their products to me IF mine goes up for sale I wouldn't take less than £800 plus shipping, I wouldn't be upset if it didn't sell

    I re primed the patches last night, the primer didn't react with the undercoat that was on the car so I am assuming it wasn't that.

    http://s1231.photobucket.com/user/po...A8C78.jpg.html

    Then went around and re sprayed any areas that needed it, in a few places I could see the primer underneath so I put another thin coat over those areas.


  2. #202
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    so after some time away doing Uni stuff i have finally had a chance to get some more work done. but first.....

    Is anyone else having trouble with Photobucket? that stupid photobucket 500 thing? is that legit or some cruddy virus i have picked up? $400 a year to host photos seems retarded.

    anyway. rear subframe went off to AC powder coating in yeovil, somerset. told them to do whatever colour they wanted and it came back DW orange



    so I put the solid bushes in as you can see above, some were tighter than others but after checking with the calipers it turned out that one of the subframe bush housings was slightly bent. once massaged it was all good.

    I had also forhot to cut the diff mounting bush metal rings out. it was pretty easy to do once I realised why the diff bushes wouldn't fit, first cut a slit in the ring.



    then insert screw driver



    then bend ring in on itself until it falls out.



    then inserted the solid diff bushes. they went in real easy because I had put them in the freezer yesterday and left the subframe out in the sun and it was quite hot to the touch



    Then i bolted the arms up to make sure i could remember how they all went, if anyone sees anything wrong then post and let me know!!



    the next little thing to do is to press the hubs out of the old rear bearings and fit them into new bearings. shouldnt be too hard to do with my little 6 ton press but it is a nissan....

    willl update you tomorrow. if photo bucket doesnt anger me to the point i destroy my computer....

  3. #203
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    well photo bucket deleted the last few pictures I put up yesterday. what a bunch of douchebags. I will skim back through and update the last few posts once I have uploaded more stuff to FLICKR.

    The drivers side hub went ok, it stripped down with relative ease and I was able to bolt it straight up as there wasnt any play in the bearing. the old dirty part on the new shiny part bugs me, eventually i will swap them out for new bearings and refurbish the hubs, but i need the car on its wheels soon as i might have to move house and i go away for 7 months in september.



    The second side..... oh my life. everything that could go wrong did go wrong. in the end a 6lb sledge was the magic ingredient. however, the outboard inner race seperated from the bearing and is now stuck on the hub



    any one got any ideas off how I can sort this? I have tried with pullers and heat, I don't have an oxy torch though so can only put limited heat into it. I might take the hit and take it into my local garage and see if they can do it cheap.

  4. #204
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    err... also does anyone know how to reduce the size of the photos

  5. #205
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    Polofours s14a

    Getting someone to remove it on a lathe will be the easiest way
    Last edited by Sean-B; 02-08-2017 at 16:58.

  6. #206
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean-B View Post
    Getting someone to remove it on a lathe will be the easiest way
    I did consider that as I have access to a good machine shop that will do work for biscuits, after speaking to one of the machinists there he was concerned that the inner race may release during the turning and cause damage.

    After staring at it for a while this morning I decided to bust out the angle grinder. it went well, there were two little nicks but both are less than 1mm and won't affect the strength or fit of the hub to the bearing.



    I also purchasedthe remaining nuts, bolts and washers to be able to fit the subframe, diff and correctly attach the front hubs to the front coilovers. Not an exciting picture but I cant wait to get around to it tomorrow. if the weathers good I will push the car out on its own wheels for the first time in three years!!!!! yay.


  7. #207
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    What a day. you Couldn't make this stuff up. came in to abit of a mess in the garage after yesterday so had to clean up abit first.



    then i looked at the bolts I had bought yesterday to fit to the front suspension. when i put them through the coilover bracket they were loose, because I had brought M12 not M14... So I put the M14 ones through, then realised that I needed a 22mm (7/8 for the old fogeys among us) socket to do them up, which I dont have So the rear diff bolts will be the same. arse.

    So yesterday I managed to remove the inner race from the hub, finished the day strong and all that..... this morning I went to press the hub back into a shiny new bearing....

    These are the two little nicks I made with the grinder yesterday by the way, when I was patient and careful and not angry with the Nissan Gods. As you can see they are not bad at all.



    Then I set up the cruddy £35 Ebay special press.



    Can anyone spot the error yet? The image below is after I had pressed it realised I had err'd, then pressed it all back together, it had ejected one of the inner races out of the bottom of the bearing as I had failed to support the underside properly, the plate to do that is actually next to the bearing in the image above..... lesson learned.



    So I flipped it back over and pressed it out... and....... You have to be kidding me...

    [url=https://flic.kr/p/W9ACsK]

    I was a bit mad at this point and was slightly hasty with the grinder when removing this second inner race that had seized on, it resulted in a score maybe 1.2mm at its deepest and maybe 25mm long. It looks worse than it is, Speaking to some mechanical engineering friends of mine the consensus is it will be ok as long as its not a stupid horsepower build.



    Anyway, grabbed my last spare rear wheel bearing and pressed it in, amazingly with it supported correctly it went really well. There is a slightly larger gap between the face of the bearing and hub than on the other side, I think this is because my last spare was a blueprint part and not an OEM Nissan part? It should be ok and I will double check it later to see if I can get a measurement.



    Tadaa!!



    then I decided to test fit the Diff, These things are so heavy!



    Then I built up the other side, one thing I have noticed is that with the after market arms and a powder coated subframe there is not enough safety thread on the top of alot of the bolts, I will measure up and get some more bolts tomorrow morning to replace all these and make sure they are safe.



    I might do some more tonight and try to get the thing back on its wheels but that means I will have to flip it again tomorrow to replace the bolts.

    There is also a plan to maybe replace the boomerangs, it was a bit of a controversial decision to slice them off and no-one can tell me what the are actually for still, if your rear subframe takes that hard of a hit that it breaks all four of the mounting studs then two 1mm thick pieces of old steel wont save it... as far as I can tell it allows you to tighten the subframe nuts down as without it you run out of thread before going tight, you can see I have packed it out with large M12 x 38mm washers above as a temporary measure that might become permanent....

    oh and I have just noticed I need to fit the drivers side rear coilover...

  8. #208
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    Bolted the coil overs up on the rear, cleared the garage ready to put it on its wheels, rolled in some wheels, could I find any wheel nuts? Nope. ordered some new narrow steel wheel nuts, so it should be back on its wheels whenever they turn up.

  9. #209
    Guest Polofour's Avatar
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    hmmm... seems I have entered serious talks to sell my car. that wasn't the plan for Saturday night.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    hmmm... seems I have entered serious talks to sell my car. that wasn't the plan for Saturday night.
    Forget it mate. Whatever they've offered it'll be worth more in a year or two especially after the work you're doing.

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sean-B View Post
    Forget it mate. Whatever they've offered it'll be worth more in a year or two especially after the work you're doing.
    He has gone quiet now so I don't know. I love the car but with my work its taken me three years to do what should have been done in 6 months I know what they are worth and I know how nicely they drive if you build them right.

    I have ordered wheels nuts from DW so hopefully hey will be here early this coming week, I am also going to have to make an alignment jig so I can get the wheels pointing in roughly the right direction.

    then I think I will put it back onto the rotisserie and run brake lines and fuel lines. I am not sure if i will use hard lines or braided yet I need to do some research into that.

    also does anyone have a good way to remove underseal from glass and painted surfaces?

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    hmmm... seems I have entered serious talks to sell my car. that wasn't the plan for Saturday night.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sean-B View Post
    Forget it mate. Whatever they've offered it'll be worth more in a year or two especially after the work you're doing.
    Completely agree with Sean. Prices have shot right up even for rotten cars. Yours is spotless now. Unless you are offered a very silly price and I mean really silly, don't even consider it.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    I am also going to have to make an alignment jig so I can get the wheels pointing in roughly the right direction.
    If it helps you out. I can measure between the fixing bolts on each end of all my alignment arms. That should help with the rear end at least.

    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    also does anyone have a good way to remove underseal from glass and painted surfaces?
    For the glass, use a Stanley blade. For the paint......some turpentine will remove it, but not sure if that will damage the paint. I used that stuff to get underseal off my skin and it comes off straight away.

  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daz View Post
    If it helps you out. I can measure between the fixing bolts on each end of all my alignment arms. That should help with the rear end at least.



    For the glass, use a Stanley blade. For the paint......some turpentine will remove it, but not sure if that will damage the paint. I used that stuff to get underseal off my skin and it comes off straight away.

    That would be amazing if you could get those measurements, it would be really helpful to get it in the right area. Is your car apart? don't go mad on my account

    will do a test with the turps on a patch of the paint , I think some of my masking fell away during the spraying and the Gravitex went everywhere

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polofour View Post
    That would be amazing if you could get those measurements, it would be really helpful to get it in the right area. Is your car apart? don't go mad on my account

    will do a test with the turps on a patch of the paint , I think some of my masking fell away during the spraying and the Gravitex went everywhere
    Try a clay bar and if that don't work maybe some compound and a mop. Another thing you could try is some good quality bug and tar remover.

    Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  16. #216
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    will definitely try some of these ways to remove the mess.

    been a busy few days, I've been half at work and half working on my car while at work. and seeing as i got alot of crappy jobss out the way on monday the dude im working with said what do i want? so i said a fuel surge pot, an oil breather tank and a rear diffuser. so here we go

    first we cut some 2.5mm 5083 Ali to shape and went to the slip rollers.



    keep rolling...



    until you get a tube, then crack out the TIG. I can MIG and TIG now after doing so much work on my car these last three years but why do it yourself when you have a pro fabricator offering







    Made a baffle plate for the bottom. I don't know alot about swirl/surge pots but i understand the concept and my design will work sufficiently. i will explain it more when its done.



    welded in, little bit of distortion but it wont affect the price of carrots.



    also an oil breather catch can and another large box that i am not 100% sure why we made suggestion for uses?



    and this aliminium....



    Became so much more. 10 degree plane, 1000mm long, 6 vanes. will run from the rear diff to past the back bumper. I just have to finish riveting it together.



    It will look better when its done and painted matt black. interestingly the FIA regulations for diffusers say the inclined plane roof MUST be flat unless series regulations state otherwise. just before evryone says it wont work... I am an aeronautical engineer. it will be fine

    I am also planning to make a fuel tank for my car over the next few weeks. so if anyone has any tips or links to good information that would be well recieved.

  17. #217
    Member sx rider's Avatar
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    Good progress mate, shame photobucket screwed up your thread with their selfish money grab attempt. Flickr seems to be the way forward... oh and no don't sell it!

  18. #218
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    Awesome update. Loving that diffuser and the custom pots.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by sx rider View Post
    Good progress mate, shame photobucket screwed up your thread with their selfish money grab attempt. Flickr seems to be the way forward... oh and no don't sell it!
    I know, I looked for stock prices to have a laugh but it seems its a privately owned company... better sell that new yacht. I'm using FLICKR now too.

    I don't intend to sell the car but if people make serious offers in the right range i will definitely talk it through with them. there are many projects and things on my list.

    only a little update.

    decided to offer up the diffuser to make sure I had the angle between the inclined plane and the bottom of the vanes correct. the photo is looking down the tunnel and you can barely see it which is ideal, its the shadow behind the diff. all looks level and flat, the plate will be mounted more centrally but I couldn't be bothered to arse around with it for ages to get it hanging right in the middle.



    then one showing just how big it is I will get round to crunching some numbers but assuming I can encourage a good laminar boundary layer on the underside of the inclined plane I should see a good pressure gradient and return to ambient velocity. I was thinking that once things like brake lines and such are run I could even look at cutting some panels to flat the floor... but thats down the line yet.



    the whole thing will be tuckedd up more to the rear of the Diff, i will bend up brackets in work next week. so it will be mounted in the same orientation but higher up.

    also my new set of wheel nuts turned up, so I again went to fit the wheels, aaaaaaaaaaaaand found that the thread on one of my tie rod ends is ruined so if anyone has a set of arms or rod ends PM me. or I will have to order a set from somewhere.

    also the fittings for the surge pot turned up from Torques UK. yet again brilliant service. I will keep using them until the car is done. might put a picture up later but it would just be a handful of fittings so it would be quite boring.

  20. #220
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    finished the surge pot today. first thing that was welded was the AN-8 output from the pot to the HP pump.



    then holes were drilled for the AN-8 overflow and the AN-6 input from the lift pump. Yes there is a misalignment between the holes lesson learned would be to drill the holes before putting it through the rollers, or to use a vice on the drill press instead of free handing it.



    Return from fuel rail.



    then the fittings for the above mentioned wonky holes and capped it.



    then cut a 150x150 base and welded it to that. huge thanks to graham, top welder.



    looks mint. will get it in place as soon as I cut the boot floor and work out where my fuel tank is going to sit. Graham said I will have to weld up the tank myself so.... best get practicing on some off cuts

    Have decided to go for a cell thats the same size as the OEM item, so about 60 ltrs, it works out to around a 200x500x600 box, the little sump idea i have will bee maybe another 5 ltrs on top and theres whatever (1.8 ltrs??) in the surge pot too, so it will be a good size system for track AND street use.

    I will try to get the boot floor cut out roughly tonight. maybe... game of thrones is on.

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