ahh its getting there, at least your out getting seat time.
ahh its getting there, at least your out getting seat time.
Keep them mate, they’ll be worth even more in a few years.
First off had to change the master cylinder as it had fluid on the wrong side of the cylinder and it got to the point I couldn’t get into first at a round about.
Then just been driving it around for the past few weeks so here’s some random pics
So today more than any day I noticed the car smelt like fumes and not a rich fumes and when a Ford Focus RS decided it wanted to play the sudden down shift from 4th to 2nd and sudden full throttle the misfire came back exactly like the drift day. Also I have noticed it back firing more than normal when you come off partial boost.
For this reason I checked the plugs when I got home and found these
Cylinder 1
Cylinder 2
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 4
First two cylinders look ok but the last two more towards lean. It’s not a boost leak as this has been checked. Any suggestions?
Also whilst all the plugs were out did a compression check
Cylinder 1
135 psi With oil 145 psi
Cylinder 2
137 psi With oil 150 psi
Cylinder 3
135 psi With oil 145 psi
Cylinder 4
130 psi With oil 140psi
Would this be enough to blow the dipstick out via blow by?
Readings look ok to me no4 is bit on the low side but not low enough to worry and the difference across all 4 is less than 10%.
If you are blowing out the dipstick the crankcase is pressurising to much, have you checked your breathers? In particular the crankcase to head breather.
How have you got your breathers setup?
Could be worth doing a leakdown test? Dis you do comp test on a warm engine?
The mis/splutter could be coil breaking down, coil loom, fuel supply (is your pump hardwired?) Dirty afm, timing.
Have you done a diagnostic test
Pointz you are a super star, just the info I was after.
It’s is totally stock breather set up, I’ve been meaning to put a catch can set up on it but there is much mixed information on what is there best way and what causes issues I keep putting it off. I’ll go out and make sure they are all clear then do my home work.
I did the compression test on a warm engine. It’s was straight after the play with RS. I pulled up and got the plugs straight out. I’ll look into a leak down test also then.
The fuel pump is not hard wired and once again a job on my to do list as I also want to a switch in there for when I have to park and leave it outside. I’ll start testing now, think I know someone who will have a bunch of spares some trial and error it is.
This is proper helpful! Thank you
Do you live at Pipers Green? Thats just round the corner from me
![]()
Yea quite a few new developments in the area, works just started down the road on this place http://bridgehomesyorkshire.co.uk/calder-fields/
Walking distance from the big Asda as well![]()
Somethings have happened so here it goes.
Sold my daily to buy a tow rig so for three weeks this was my daily. There was only one issue which was a coolant hose popped off but it was due to me not spacing the two hoses evenly. Other than that it coped fine. It even coped with the snow (although very lively)
I booked for drift matsuri at Rockingham and with limited time I decided to buy a Apexi SAFC and a wideband.
So picked this Apexi SAFC up locally and wired that in and put a base set up on as the wideband hadn’t arrived yet. Miraculously it now revved right through and felt great.
Then fitted the AEM lambada the day before we set off to Rockingham, then gave it a wash, noticed a slight coolant leak when prepping which was soon sorted with a jubilee tighten and packed up
The car was faultless on the drive up and kept temps really well. On the track, It was down on boost in the morning, misfiring, idling shitty and it was struggling to keep the tyres spinning in third, so by the time I had got them sorted it was dinner time.
The idling was these plugs fallen off and kept falling off so bodged them
The boost leak and misfire was my already bodge and kept vibrating loose
By this time there was a rain shower also which loosened it up and after dinner was completely different.
Got some good runs in although the cue times was huge, but all in all a really good day and a first for me doing 3rd gear drifts. No photos as the other cars there was incredible and my driving not so.
I went hoping to learn flick clutch kick entries less hand brake on transitions and third gear drifts, but due to grip that track has and issues in the morning I just focused on drifting the corners and no hand brake on transitions which I was happy with.
The car is running good now and back off daily driving duties. I found injector 4 like this so I am trying to source another but it doesn’t seem to effect it.
I’ve ordered the correct clamps for the turbo to inter cooler and all I want to do next is get some more lock and drive the hell out of it this year
Also new tow rig so no more driving it to track any more
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can't go on plug reading unless you do a "plug chop". A "plug chop" is done by switching off while running at sustained FULL LOAD. Anything less than full load doesn't give a proper reading. You need a brake dyno (not inertia roller) to hold full load for long enough to colour the plugs. It's not safe to do a plug chop on a car with power steering on the road. I've only ever done it with bikes when re-jetting after fitting S&B air filters, 35 years ago. If you don't do full load plug chop all you get is idle mixture reading. These days people use wide band lambda.
That leak on the block coolant inlet could be quite serious. If it has one pin hole it will soon have more and that could cost you the engine. If the block inlet has corrosion then many of the T joiners, the oil cooler and the heater feed/return pipes could be just as bad.
The rear plug on the FICD won't have been a problem. It's only powered when the air con is on.
Good to know on the plug chop and as you say I’ve done it when re-jetting my moped as a youth but never thought the car. That was only a temporary measure as I now have a AEM lambada fitted that the SAFC was tuned with that. We simply put more fuel in to start with as after talking to Chris he said it sounds like a lean misfire and it’s always better to add too much fuel than too little
The coolant leak was due to me not spacing the hoses evenly so although one was well on the other was on the edge and not sealing. Levelling them out has sorted it but to be honest there is fair bit of corrosion on the end of some coolant pipes as I have had them all off and I have done my best to stop it but they will do until I have the engine out at some point (whether this one goes back in or not is another issue)
That’s what that does! I did notice the idle didn’t fix when I put that one on first but i thought they might work together. As there is no air con I could actually leave it off. Thank you
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Done some bits over the past few months.
Could hear a noise sometimes when the suspension was travelling and found the drop link for the ARB is knackered. Got new one on order.
Thanks to R3K1355 as he sorted me out a pintle cap for injector 4. Jay also from here was super nice enough to sell me a spare injector for fault finding in future.
Fitted the pintle cap but I had a massive fuel leak when I put it back together. I’m an idiot, luckily the spare injector sacrificed its O-ring.
The car drives better than ever now. No hesitation coming on boost and revs through better than ever. I had to turn down the compensation on the Apexi SAFC as it was running rich but turns out pintle caps do have a fairly big effect.
When speaking to R2K1355 he inspired me to get an injector rebuild kit to ensure max reliability and possibly stop boost leaking out. So I ordered this from turbo noz. Yet to fit it.
Made some ramps for drift days so I can just jack up on the diff as it’s too low for my jack
I’ve been un happy with the back of it for some time do decided it’s time to get that spoiler off
Then for the sake of £30 of bits and the car being out of action for a couple of weeks I set about taking the ABS out for once and for all.
Did my research and to be honest it really wasn’t that bad of a job.
Fronts to a T-Piece then to the callipers and the back simply down the the block by the gear box.
I think the best part was I managed to get good clean under there and access to lots of things I’ve never been able to see before. So tidied all the cables some what the best I could
The brakes feel loads better now so must have been due a bleed. Just need to take the computer unit out behind the driver seat and mask the text in the dash to keep Mr MOT happy.
Injectors and drop link next
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looking good dude, much nicer without the ducktail IMO. I reckon some kouki spats would go down pretty well to change the rear up a bit.
Cheers mate, I love it now the spoilers gone. I’d love a jap rear bumper and some spats like you say but unfortunately there is lots of parts higher up the rankings before all that.
Did the drop link
Sorted the horrible banging noise under suspension compression.
Went to a car meet in it. Not my thing personally but it was a good ride out and the car performed faultlessly even though it was above 32 degrees out. We had sweaty backs however
Filled the holes in the boot copying Charlie’s method. Learnt a lot about welding and turned out ok but at least it’s water tight
Passed my trailer test
Then I’ve just been driving it around. We’ve recently got a puppy so time to work on it has been minimal but to be fair it’s running fine and I’d just like to add some modded knuckles and offset rack spacers then go drifting but it’s mechanically sound for once
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Time for an update I think,
The car didn’t change for a while as we started to save for the house so I just run it around and didn’t spend any money on it.
In January after we got settled into our new home decided I want to go out on track just to brush off the cob webs if anything. Was fortunate enough to get on day at Teesside where there was only 6 cars turn up.
Finally put my trailer test and truck to use and I won’t be going back to driving it there anymore! It was luxury.
Car was fantastic and felt really fast and even managed to do 3rd gear skids with 215 18s on which I was surprised.
Unfortunately the track was patchy with frost in the morning which got the better of me round the first corner
Gutted as the paintwork was rubbish on this but the metal was actually really good. However it’s nothing that can’t be sorted.
Then after after dinner the clutch started to suffer from the stickier tyres and 3rd gear to the point it would slip in a straight line. That was my day over however I was happy with that. I got some decent laps in, managed to change gears mid drift which I haven’t done before and just got the car out.
I felt like the lack of lock was holding me back so I bought this lot
Then the car went to Crisp tuning for the clutch to be re-done and all the lock kit to be fitted.
Got the car back now and the extended LCA’s have pushed the wheels out as expected but now we have more rubbing issues, however I believe it makes the car look ace.
Also tried to knock the dent out a bit for now
Done the head to exhaust manifold gaskets as cylinder 4 was gone and it sounded like a tractor. Shit job, I knew as I’ve done it before but it’s sorted now and it sounds loads better. The braised turbo hoses help too
![]()
And finally it’s strange as now the car is trailered to track days I’ve come to the idea I want it to be a more pleasant place inside so and more B road blasting friendly. I think it’s an age thing. Started today by taking my rattly bodged speakers out
And I’ve sorted the rattly boot out so now it’s quite when driving around which is a strange feeling.
Maybe get some drift days done in May and all being good it’s a matter of lower profile tyres up front, and get some carpet in the rear and just tidy it up
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does anyone make the rear pockets for repair jobs like this? I know you can get full length sills.
Also those don't look like the correct gaskets to be using on the exhaust manifold, you want MLM not composite fibre ones due to the heat they've gotta deal with.
![]()
I don't think anyone makes the rear pockets. I think people just bash them out and cover it with over fenders however I prefer metal panels. Maybe find a rust bucket ready for scrap heap and cut the rear pocket out? food for thought anyway
The description was exhaust manifold gasket and was from Coneptua Tuning who I've got most of my CA bits for, however its such a shit job to do I'll consider anything to stop it happening again. Thanks for the heads up![]()
Standard Nissan exhaust gasket is composite.
MLM are reusable.
Just a slight update,
Car has been running well, used it as a daily for a couple of weeks whilst I bought a new one and it was good fun (not for my neighbours) but on cool fresh mornings it was over boosting. The day before I went to pick the new steed up, came out of the shops to find loads of coolant on the floor. Had a quick look and couldn’t see anything so just thrashed it home as quick as I could ( I was only three streets away).
This metal pipe had a pin hole
Mospin was an absolute legend and sorted me out with another one
Bled it up and all good. In the super hot weather the intake temps where red hot to a point of a misfire and it’s something it’s always struggled with so I’ve strapped a Chav boi cold air feed to it to see if it works. If it does I’ll make it more permanent.
I’ve got Teeside booked on the 26th August which I am very excited about.
I would love a full cage so it would allow me to twin, but does anyone know if Apexi did any additions that would make my rear half cage into a full cage?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk