Possible locations to get an oil feed from, for the turbo.

[chrisyboi s14]

After discovering some one has bodged my engine with a dodgy helicoil where the banjo for the turbo oil feed bolts to the block, I'm looking for other options.

The threads In The normal one are completely goosed, I have tried loads of ways to make it work but it just leaks oil. I figured another option I have is to black that one completely up and find another place to get the oil from.

My question is, where? Obviously it would have to be pressurised, is there anywhere anybody can think of to get oil from, so I can run a braided line to my turbo?

Any info would be a great help thanks

[Slamz]

Get somewhere to helicoil it properly? Or, the pressure switch has an oil feed.

[M200sex]

Either helecoil it again properly or threadsert it, there are plenty of options if you take it to a decent garage they'll talk you through them

[chrisyboi s14]

Iv had a mobile thread specialist out to get him to helicoil it, it's already been helicoiled in the past (all be it on the piss) and that's the reason it's leaking. He said, he wouldn't be able to do it and I'd have to take the engine out to get it mended.....

Which I really don't fancy doing.

What's a threadsert?

[M200sex]

The guy is talking shit there are lots of ways of fixing it, helecoil being one of the shittest tbh, http://www.threadkits.com/time-sert.html you could take the hole out slightly using a bigger thread and use a metric banjo bolt too

[skyshack]

Threadsert is a tube with thread on both inside and outside, larger than a helicoil. Only way to do it right and not bodged again is engine out. Probably needs a bit of stripping down as well. Needs sitting on a radial arm drill. Any hand tool will just follow the pissed up hole.

If you can't get the elbow to seal you won't get a plug to seal either. May have to put a ball in that seats on the drilling and centre drilled recess in the plug to trap it.

Oil pressure switch is unfiltered and a complete no no for turbo.
Cooler sandwich plate fits on unfiltered side of filter so that's out too.
Head has restricted oil feed and addition of turbo could affect tappet operation.

I'm out.

[alanjuggler]

if you cut a new seat that's perpendicular to the threads, even if they're on the piss, it should still seal with a banjo since the threads and sealing surface are now square to each other now.

if you get something like a counterbore tool that uses the threads to guide the angle, that'd do it.

even then, if you use a timesert, the top flange of the bushing would give you something to seal against as well, so I think that'd work too.

it just depends on much meat is available on the block to drill into.

[chrisyboi s14]

Cheers for the info guys

The problem I have is my car is stuck in the middle of no where near kings lynn, it's at a garage that really only do servicing's because that's pretty much where I spotted the loss oil pressure and stopped, and discovered the leak.

I got the only local thread guy out and he said he can't do it, and didn't even mention a threadsert to me. It appears that the block has already been heli coiled befor, but on the piss so the banjo isn't sitting flush and leaking...

One idea iv had, is can you get some sort of male aeroquip fitting to screw Into the block, then attach my braided hose directly to that? Do you think that would work? Does something like that even exist?

[Ruff]

Are you on about something similar to this? http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/pn...nectors-101014

Will you have the same issue with this too, e.g. it wont seal against the block? How out of line is it? Would some crush washers either side of the banjo do the job?

[chrisyboi s14]

That's what I was thinking dude.

And tried crush washers, even tried making a custom thing on an angle which didn't work, it's a fair way out...

[Stevecarter200]

If you use ptfe tape on the threads it doesnt need to seal against the block. Have you tried that?

[green_rs13]

I thought the original ones sealed on the taper at the bottom of the hole, not on the threads/side of the block.

[skyshack]

Any normal insert / helicoil will be pissing oil out up the back of the threads. So whatever you use it will have to seal on the boss face of the block.

Try a socket, like this. I have no idea what the thread should be. If the face isn't big enough use a 2nd bigger washer, sandwiched between copper washers.
http://www.cdaquatics.co.uk/20mm-pre...FZQZtAodgjgAcQ

Taper helicoils are different, profile is sharper. They don't say what sealing they give or pressure they can take. They don't come in small enough size for that elbow.
http://www.helicoil.com.sg/HeliCoil-...-Inserts.shtml

[NismoNut]

I had similar problems and had to make up an insert for the block. Have a look at my build below, it might be an alternative option for you.

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=468362

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

[shogun]

http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/docs/542-EN.PDF

[colinjy]

Why don't you get the car recovered back to yours. That way you can look at getting it sorted properly instead of looking for a bodge / quick fix ?