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Thread: Tokyo_black's 180SX becoming EMPEROR TUNING's(Jont) Sil80 Project

  1. #81
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    OK guys. Time for a cup of tea and re-assesment of where I've got to. Bodywork mainly finished. Still need:
    - sand rear fenders down and polish.
    - clean car all over properly.
    - find a decent bonnet from somewhere.
    - MOT & alignment (hopefuly Driftbitz or GDUK will sort for me next week)

    Overall, I'm pretty pleased. Looks more or less like my original vision. Will look cooler buzzing around a race track




















  2. #82
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    That's a good read there and lots of good info on the arches, car looks awesome and just makes mine look so ruined

  3. #83
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    Cheers Andy

    OK well unfortunately now that the car is moving and the shell is twisting and what not, the rear fenders have started de-laminating from the car. This is a real PITA as the whole idea of the project was to fit them without hard fixings.

    I know when Im beaten - so I secured each side with 9 small bolts. Solids as a rock now. Just got to find a way to make the bolts look pretty now. And got to make the fenders and bolts completely water-proof also, to avoid any repeat of the rust problems.




  4. #84
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    OK rear fenders sanded and polished. For some reason didnt come up as good as the wings, but good enough for now. It's not a show car

    Just got to clean up the bonnet now and then I'm finito!

    Last edited by jont; 31-05-2014 at 14:23.

  5. #85
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    Flattened the bonnet paint. That's about as good as that bonnets gunna look I reckon.




  6. #86
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    I ****ing love Sil80's. So awesome.

  7. #87
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    Thx Spicey

    OK so now that the car is nearly roadworthy it's time to do a snag list to ensure that it is a safe car to drive. It was crashed 2 years ago due to incorrect setup, so this emphasizes the important of getting it right first time.

    Here are some things I have picked up so far:

    1) the negative camber is way to baller', too cambered to be safe. You can't see it in the photo's but it's quite mad in the flesh. So we need to calculate the camber and adjust it. Jez @ Horsham (my hero!) says target should be 2.5º for fronts and 1.5º for rears, for track use.

    2) oil pressure gauge isn't working, constantly reading 120Psi.

    3) top seals on the rear fenders are failing and need re-doing to keep water and rust away. Ordered some more tigerseal.
    Last edited by jont; 01-06-2014 at 11:17.

  8. #88
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    OK so first the camber issue

    The first step is to create a perfectly flat surface that is plumb with the Earth. What I've done here is accurate to 3mm or so, so will be good enough for now. Will be lazer aligned at the end to polish it off:



    OK lets get the car on it:





    OK now we measure the camber by putting a plumb line from the bottom wheel lip and measuring the horizontal error at the top lip, like this:



    Record the results:



    Ok the results are pretty tight. The smaller error in the rear wheels is most likely a mixture of error in setting up the ground jig and possibly the chassis took a little twist in the crash. Either way it's too minor to worry about.

    So now if we run the maths. Here is an example of how we do it for the Front Left wheel:

    Camber = Tan-1(34/490) = 3.97º (where 490mm is the height of wheel rim to rim)

    So here is the final Cambers of all wheels:

    FL – 3.97º
    FR – 3.97º
    RL – 3.68º
    RR – 4.20º

  9. #89
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    So I need to take 1.47º from the front cambers to achieve the 2.5º target. And an average of 2.44º from the rears to achieve 1.5º

  10. #90
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    Ok so front arch lips reduced & camber reduced. Error now = 21mm which = 2.5º negative camber. This matches with the markings on the adjustable top mounts. So that's the fronts sorted.





    The rears will be more difficult. I had to go to 4º camber to make the tyres fit under the arches without rubbing. So to reduce the camber I will first have to get some smaller offset wheel spacers to reduce the wheel track, which will give me some room to lose some camber.

  11. #91
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    OK rears more of less done. They were a PITA, having to adjust all of the adjustable arms etc.

    My target was -1.5º for the rears. Have achieved exactly -1º for both of the rears, so half a degree shy. May just leave it at that, as it's a real pain trying to get fractions of a degree by hand. Set the toe to zero on each side also.

    Next will need to get it laser aligned just to finish it off and make it perfect.

  12. #92
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    OK doke. Fitted a little breather filter thing to the cam cover. Thats the engine bay finished.

    Also found where the car has been leaking from. The rear squirter thing has been leaking. Removed it and filled. One more problem sorted




  13. #93
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    Ok finished the manual alignment.

    Fit 25mm spacers to rear with extra 5mm shims. Tested rear wheels under compression and I think they should just clear the inner arches, maybe they'lll just graze them.

    Ended up with exactly 1.1º camber on rears and 2.5º on fronts.

    Just got to clean up some of the paint and fix oil gauge an then finished




















  14. #94
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    Ooo found a pic of the car after the crash, after we patched her up and drove home.

    Before & after:




  15. #95
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    Ok then. Replaced the fuel filter with a new one. Started the car but it would'nt run right. Checked engine bay and fuel was spirting everywhere.

    Checked and all 3 oem fuel pipes in the bay had failed, they had little cracks in them. Must have been old age mixed with me man-handling them to get the filter on.

    Removed them and replaced with newer lines that I robbed from a 2003 Honda S2K, so are much newer. The ones on the left are the old ones, you can't really see but they have lots of little cracks in them.






  16. #96
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    That breather filter may drip oil onto your manifold after the engine has been worked hard on track
    I would extend it with a length of hose to prevent it dripping,maybe heat shield it
    or use a short 90 degree bend so the filter is vertical and cant drip oil
    and is that blue hose fuel resistant and able to cope with fuel pressure
    sorry to pick holes in an awesome car and if I have stated the obvious regarding the fuel pipe
    just I study pictures (for ages) and see things sometimes and feel the need to comment

  17. #97
    Home Counties Rep LED sandwich's Avatar
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    As andy said I'd swap that blue hose if its just silicone. Looks like the car is coming along well mate, keep it up


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by TheBigShow View Post
    Reach arounds are more my thing, I don't like the taste...

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANDY black s13 View Post
    That breather filter may drip oil onto your manifold after the engine has been worked hard on track
    I would extend it with a length of hose to prevent it dripping,maybe heat shield it
    or use a short 90 degree bend so the filter is vertical and cant drip oil
    and is that blue hose fuel resistant and able to cope with fuel pressure
    sorry to pick holes in an awesome car and if I have stated the obvious regarding the fuel pipe
    just I study pictures (for ages) and see things sometimes and feel the need to comment
    Quote Originally Posted by LED sandwich View Post
    As andy said I'd swap that blue hose if its just silicone. Looks like the car is coming along well mate, keep it up
    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Great comments from both guys. Feel free to pick away, safety is my number 1 priority so I would rather have things pointed out than risk burning to death!

    - ok you are right the silicone hose is a crap idea, I'll re-do with proper fuel hose today.

    - breather - agreed yes position is stupid, I'll change that later today and get pics up.

    cheers guys!

  19. #99
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    OK guys weighed the car today at Dry Drayton weighbridge (Cambs). Here are the results.



    That was with exactly half a tank of gas and 1 Kg of emergency gear.

    So Total Wet Kerb Weight of car = 1080Kg - 23Kg - 1Kg = 1056Kg

    Relatively happy with that. I'm going to aim to get it down to more like 1030Kg in next few months.

  20. #100
    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    The car is awesome and now I'm more jealous as its lighter than mine
    well last weight in after a good strip out 5 years ago I had 1100 kgs +/- 20kgs weighbridge
    I 've taken loads more out of it now,but massively time consuming taking every single thing out
    unused brackets,seam sealer,sound deadening,all wires chased back and forth between the bulkhead multi-plugs
    also I suspect the pop ups are costing me weight even with raybrigs and frp vented covers
    thing is the ps front is mega bucks,and pop ups get you laid
    and the pod projector conversions look a bit mitsi GTO
    I haven't seen anything that I like in place of the pop ups,but may have to make (bodge) something as I'm chasing 1k kgs
    so many benefits to weight reduction if you can tolerate the extra noise (adds to the event imo)

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