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Thread: starting problem wont idle goes to die even on throttle

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    Guest burch1988's Avatar
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    starting problem wont idle goes to die even on throttle

    Hi guys i have a question ...

    Ive got a ca s13 and was working fine with wing mount intercooler .
    Then i took it off the road for 3 months to work on brakes and other bits
    So then i made a front mount intercooler for it out of made up pipes and evo front mount

    So now it will start but i only can keep it running of i continuoisly tap the throttle if i hold the revvs
    Just dies and if i let off just dies ....
    I have checked all hoses and vaccum hoses and there all ok

    No lights come up on dash even when it goes to die the battery light dont come on until its dead ...

    There is two pipes im unsure where they will go now due to me removing them months ago...
    Please help

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    http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/v...psh1kvaocz.jpg

    The black pipe from the inlet is like a y shape cant recall where it goes ...

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    Also this pipe i have my finger on witch is next to the turbo i dont recall it was attached to anything

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    That 16mm hose to the inlet is the IDLE air. It should go to a stub on the cool side pipe - was on X-duct above rad on stock car.

    Hot start solenoid, one hose to rear of plenum, one to Fuel reg, one to AFM trunk. Or do hot start by-pass.

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    Guest burch1988's Avatar
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    Thanks dude ... i literaly figured it out looking at a engine pic of my old s14a intercooler pipework thannks


    And i need to try it all tonight

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    Skyshack is spot on as usual.

    The one with the screw should be connected to the elephants trunk next to where the breather hoses connect to the trunk. Make sure it is blocked at the trunk end as, if it is not, that will be letting in unmetered air.

    Provided you have a short hose going directly from the back of the plenum to the FPR, you don't need to worry about the 3 hoses on the HSS. In fact, just remove the HSS and tuck the electrical connector for it out of the way.

    As said though, your real problem is that the 16mm hose to all the air regulator gubbins isn't connected

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    Guest burch1988's Avatar
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    Ive fitted the 17mm hose to the ic pipework but still lumpy and goes to die please help
    If anyone can come have a look and sort the problem i will pay handsomly

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    What does your HSS setup look like now ?

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    Can you post up a vid of it idling, or as close to idling as you can get it?

    Assuming that you've not got any air leaks into the engine anymore, then I'd look at the AFM 1st - If you unplugged it then you may have bent a pin on the connector when reconnecting it, but also if it starts and idles better with it unplugged then it may be goosed.

    They will run (just - sometimes on 2nd or 3rd startup attempt) with the AFM unplugged, so it's 1 thing you can quickly eliminate anyway.

    As Johnny has said though, you sure the vac hoses are all ok now and no more air leaks after the AFM to the engine?... Will run lean-as if there's extra air getting in there that's not being read by the AFM.

    A long-shot also, but if it's been sitting for months with very little or no petrol in it then the fuel pump can seize up, and also gunk can settle in the fuel pipes and then get pushed thru into the fuel filter on the 1st start and clog it up.

    Haven't worked on a CA in a good while now but I would check these things if you haven't already, unless you still have air leaks in the vac piping in which case it'll most likely be that that's causing the bother.

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    Thanks guys for more advise ....
    I have fount the problem it runs and idles perfect when warm so has got to be the cold start valve right ...
    Also a major thing wrong .... when driving then put down past 5k its like i hit a wall could it be either boost cut or fuel cut
    As a stage 1 map is suposed to remove this isnt it ... so im guessing the owner of the ecu i got isnt telling the truth

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    If it's like hitting a wall it could be a blocked/clogged fuel filter. Take the pipe off the bottom of the fuel filter and see what the petrol is like that comes back out of it.

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    ^ +1 Low fuel pressure is indeed like hitting a brick wall - Sometimes followed by bucking and popping until you lift off.

    Also you could unplug the engine temp sensor when it's cold and see if it starts/idles any better without it.
    I never found the HSS did much really, so I did the delete straight away on my last car, but not sure if you could have an issue there maybe.

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    HSS just adjusts the fuel pressure on start up when the engine is still hot so that it will start easier. I doubt it will be causing this problem.

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    Haha, sorry, yeah I know how it's meant to work but I never noticed a bit of difference from bypassing it, so as I said it never seemed to do much.

    It'd only be a problem if the solenoid's stuck open and there's an engine vac pipe still connected at 1 end end the solenoids going to open air at the other... Definitely delete it IMO, not needed in most cases, maybe useful in a hot country or something.

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    its just gonna be a boost leak from where he has left something disconnected. or from one of many joins

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