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Thread: ca turbo please help me

  1. #1
    Guest burch1988's Avatar
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    ca turbo please help me

    Hi guys i want to fit a better turbo to my ca 13
    What would i need to fit to have a t28 work on my car
    i.e would i need any suporting mods attal

    thanks shaun

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    HD Stage 2 as a minimum.

    Check out their definition at their website. IIRC, they specify it as Stage 1 + what you need for Stage 2.

    If you want the car for road work and can afford it, get a GT2560R instead of a journal-bearing T28 as it spool up earlier.

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    Guest burch1988's Avatar
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    Ahh damm so wacking a s14 t28 wont work then

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    Well, people have run a T28 with a Stage 1 chip at default T28 actuator pressure (about 8 psi) but its not nice as you just lose the mid-range without gaining anything at the top end.

    Doing that without a Walbro, a cone filter and exhaust is asking for trouble IMO.

    What are you trying to achieve ?

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    Guest burch1988's Avatar
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    Basicly i have a very large evo intercooler hks filter 3"turbo back walbro
    id just like a little bit more power i need a stage 1 chip

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    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    if you only want a little more power but still want the midrange kick, I'd keep the t25, get the stage 1 chip and get the boost control sorted so it comes on as soon as possible and holds as long as possible.

    if you know you're going to upgrade anyway and will get bored, I'd have a think about what your aims are with the car before committing to anything.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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    Guest burch1988's Avatar
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    I want to get it a little bit more power then when it goes pop either sr or rb lol so not going to spend alot on the engine
    but thanks guys for youre advise though

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    My CA has been running Stage 1 - a T25 at 16 psi and making 239 bhp and 245 lb/ft - for many years.

    It hits full boost at 2,750 rpm and starts boosting at 2,250.

    A 70 brake increase over standard is well worth having and makes the car very driveable.... Just be careful who you pick a fight with on the road.

    For details of my mods, check out the link in my sig.

    Regards sticking an SR in it....that's just "make work". An SR gives you nothing over a CA and is work to do....and sounds shit

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    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    I agree with the above - bear in mind that at stock power, the RB25DET isn't actually that torquey or particularly powerful - it's a pretty short stroke motor. the standard turbo blows.

    OEM peak figures for the RB25DET are 250bhp, 216lb/ft. the CA is pretty torquey for the displacement of it.

    the RB25 needs modifying to get the best out of it. if you think you'll ever want over 350bhp - I'd consider the RB route, SR doesn't make any sense to me unless you're putting a used engine in and your current CA has popped.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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    Guest nas241's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    My CA has been running Stage 1 - a T25 at 16 psi and making 239 bhp and 245 lb/ft - for many years.

    It hits full boost at 2,750 rpm and starts boosting at 2,250.
    Jonny that sounds like a pretty good gain for stage 1, I am also very much jealous that you have full boost at 2750rpm (I'm certain mine hits 500-750rpm later on my T25G) at times I've really needed it to be in full swing at the point you mentioned.. I've checked out your build, noticed it to be a HD1 chip + a standard T25, as I didn't see if it was a G or not. At what point does yours begin to tail off?

    I also get the feeling I'm not hitting the same flywheel BHP levels as you. The quick feeling of mine is most likely due to when the turbo does its job, that and its stripped out..

    PM if you'd rather not sidetrack the thread.
    Last edited by nas241; 19-12-2013 at 11:55.

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    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    the T25G has a larger exhaust turbine (afaik the compressor is the same size), so would hold boost a little higher up the range but come on a little later.

    iirc Yak pushed a T25 hardest for longest, his S13 was peaking at 17psi and he was dyno'd at 249bhp.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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    Guest nas241's Avatar
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    Right that is interesting, and something that'll explain a few things (my previous S13 had a standard T25 and had boost earlier than my current setup).

    With regards the 17psi you speak of, I've not had my car Dyno'd but would be interested in checking this out eventually. If you checkout my thread http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...t=#post6512681 I recently posted, I checked the peak recall on my gauge and found it has been hitting 1.3 bar at some point during revs (Stage1 ND map). For the sake of longevity it's not something I like (or would brag about rather), as I've only just recently found this out. My old gauge did not have a peak recall function and in all fairness was situated in not the most convenient of places, so never noticed it.

    I'm also still new to modifying S-bodies so its all a learning curve for me!
    Last edited by nas241; 19-12-2013 at 13:21.

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    My figures come from Track and Road's RR from an RR day we did a while back in Rainham.

    As said it is the OEM T25.

    The MBC is set for 16 psi but it only hold 16 to about 4K rpm after which the boost trails off as the poor little tubbie isn't able to flow enough air. By 6K rpm its only managing to sustain 9 psi.

    As a road car though, it rocks. It gives you a punch in the back from 2,500 then you upshift at 5K and ride the next wave of torque.

    What I love is the ability to put the car where you want on a motorway or dual carriageway like you can with a bike. 70 to 100 in top is better than a lot of regular cars can do 30-60 in any gear.

    I've got a full stage 3+ setup to put on that will see those figures upped to 300+ on both fronts and I think that is going to make me very happy. I'm using a GT2560R with FW manifold, 550 injectors and Z32 AFM which should keep it responsive but give it tyre-overwhelming capability given I'm still running 195/60R15s

    TBH, I'm only doing it to "keep up with the Joneses". The Joneses in my case being my wife as her car is pushing 310 lb/ft

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    . Grr double post.

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    Sounds like that'll be a blast, especially with those power and torque levels on 15s, will be alot of fun no doubt! I recall going from 16's to 15s on a stock S13, and finding the difference quite noticeable - in a good way. Whilst further power levels are not my fundamental concern at the minute, when it is, I'll just need to decide wether or not I'll go from my current setup to a HD stage 2 with a T28 (or T28R) to improve drivability or keep my current ND map and go with a T28R or just jump to stage 3 and call it a day… Only time will tell

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    would a ca actually run properly with everything stage 2 apart from the turbo?

    reason i ask is im doing this, i will have stage 2 everything but i have other bits to sort before i get a T28, need to get it running first.

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