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Thread: engine break in procedures...

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    Guest erykkrwawy's Avatar
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    engine break in procedures...

    hi I'm in the middle of running in of my newly built sr20det engine with forged internals and the builder of the engine says to use 15w40 mineral oil initially for about 60 miles of mild driving, drain and and put in for example 10w60 synthetic in and give it another 1000 km of running it gradually across rpm range. change oil to synthetic again. done! what do you thing about this method???

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    Guest hooky's Avatar
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    If thats how the engine builder told you to do it then i'd follow his advice!

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    Guest Stevie b's Avatar
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    Sounds about right. I would avoid the 10w60 though. It's too thick for anything but extreme high temps. And really not needed on a freshly built engine. I would stick with 10w40.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hooky View Post
    If thats how the engine builder told you to do it then i'd follow his advice!
    This really, why would you question the advice of your builder if you've trusted them to throw it together?

    Do as he says or reap the consequences if it goes wrong and you haven't followed his proceedure to the letter.

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    Guest ANDY black s13's Avatar
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    Or there is this method,lots of info and pictures to backup what he's saying :http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
    other engine builders/tuners agree with it for proper ring seal/break in

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    Guest 30psi's Avatar
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    Are you running in new cams too?

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    Guest erykkrwawy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 30psi View Post
    Are you running in new cams too?
    no it's the same engine but new bearings, rings, seals, gaskets and studs.only has been re measure dand rebuilt to make sure it's in spec. reason i post this thread is that it contradicts the common practice of engine break in that most people would use. i've read that there are two schools to to that. one being to run it hard ish for the first 50 miles o so moderate throttle and then switch to synthetic and the other most popular 1000 easy miles on mineral and then switch. i simply want todothe best thing for my engine

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    Guest 30psi's Avatar
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    Well I'd just go with his recommendations. It may affect any warranty you have with him otherwise.

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    Guest erykkrwawy's Avatar
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    cheers guys.It's time to put synthetic in then.
    Quote Originally Posted by hooky View Post
    If thats how the engine builder told you to do it then i'd follow his advice!
    hi mate thanks for you help. you rebuilt your engine yourself not that long ago If I remember right. could you write me whats your strategy if it comes to your engine. I took your advice once if you remember not to let it idle on first start up and it felt so right.

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    Guest BWanderers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 30psi View Post
    Are you running in new cams too?
    I will be in erykkrwawy's position soon, (Forged, etc.) but with new Pon cams, so what were you about to add if he had been running new cams 30psi?

    Ta,
    Rob.

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    Guest hooky's Avatar
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    As you've already got the initial start completed, Firstly Follow your builders advice with the oils/mileage etc but also it will help to raise the idle a little (1000rpm), just until the first oil change.
    Secondly, dont be scared to use the engine, they like to be kept (moderately) revving on break-in, so dont 'labour' it for more than a few seconds,(ie-dont climb hills at 1500rpm etc), Also using some boost is fine, As long as you're driving 'normally' and not thrashing it! keep the revs below 4k for 200miles or so then gradually use more revs as the miles go by.

    Obviously if you notice anything like EXCESSIVE smoke or heat then call your builder immediately for advice, it may smoke a little particularly on start up but thats quite normal, Particularly with forged pistons!

    Thats my two pennys, and a fairly traditional method thats worked for me for years!

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    Guest hooky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWanderers View Post
    I will be in erykkrwawy's position soon, (Forged, etc.) but with new Pon cams, so what were you about to add if he had been running new cams 30psi?

    Ta,
    Rob.
    With new cams the first 5-10 mins is extremely important!

    Firstly use plenty of dedicated cam lube before the rocker cover goes on, then ensure the oil pump is primed up, then after the first start, DO NOT LET IT IDLE for a good five minutes! keep the revs between 1500-2k for five-ten minutes with a close eye on temps/oil pressures!
    Last edited by hooky; 19-11-2013 at 18:51.

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    Engine Builder Mark's Avatar
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    Personally I would use mineral oil for at least 500 miles and change it at 50, 250, 500 and 1000 miles. Drive the car normally, making sure the revs dont stay at one level i.e dont sit on a motorway doing 70. You need to use the rev range and put it under a bit of load to help it bed in. If you pussy foot about everywhere it will just smoke its arse off as the rings wont have bedding in properly.
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

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    Engine Builder Mark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hooky View Post
    With new cams the first 5-10 mins is extremely important!

    Firstly use plenty of dedicated cam lube before the rocker cover goes on, ensure the oil pump is primed up, then after the first start, DO NOT LET IT IDLE for a good five minutes! keep the revs between 1500-2k for five-ten minutes with a close eye on temps/oil pressures!
    Cam lube is a rip off and nothing special. Use EP90 hypoid oil
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

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    Guest hooky's Avatar
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    Or if you've got any 'ARP moly thread lube' or similar, smear that on the lobes!

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    Guest 30psi's Avatar
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    First 20 mins are critical. General advice is to not let it idle and keep it above 1,500rpm. Some say 2,000rpm and some say vary between 1,500 rpm and 3,000rpm. It's a bit different on an SR20 but there's no harm in following the practice that you'd follow for a flat tappet engine where the cam is work hardened from the process.

    You also don't have to mate a rotating lifter with the SR20 cam like like you may do on a CA or a push rod engine. If you don't do it on a rotating lifter and the cam doesn't rotate the lifter initially, chances are the lifter and cam will eat each other out. They're machined in a way to encourage the lifter to rotate, which is great when it works, but a pain when it doesn't. Irrelevant here, but still, good lubrication is key and the higher rpm will get more oil to the cams and with more splashing of the oil.

    I can't imagine an SR20 cam lasting long on the lobes without decent lubrication from the word go. You can't prime the oil pump like you can on some engines before starting, so make sure if fires up with as little cranking as possible. As we know, they don't last long when the spray bars block up.

    I bet many people have just idled their new SR20 cams from the initial start and had no issue though. I personally would do the break in that's all. There will be mixed views...

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    Over the years of a group of us rebuilding bike engines we pretty much did what your engine builder recommended. I never bought into the load the engine for x amount of minutes idea.
    Also before firing her up prime the oil lines by pulling the petrol pump fuse and turn the engine over on the starter for a while. Fit fuse back in and fire her up.

    But this question is always a hot topic! ;-) Asking it is like taking the lid of Pandora's box!

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    Guest BWanderers's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies to my post, interesting stuff, & will be used for my engine when the time comes.

    Cheers,
    R.

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    Guest erykkrwawy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BWanderers View Post
    Thanks for the replies to my post, interesting stuff, & will be used for my engine when the time comes.

    Cheers,
    R.
    share on here what route you will have chosen...when you come to it.

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