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Thread: Headwork

  1. #1
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    Headwork

    I'm going to be taking a cylinder head apart soon but have a few questions.

    1/ What is the correct size adaptor for removing/compressing the valve springs to remove the valve, valve springs etc.?

    2/ How much are new valves these days, inlet and exhaust?

    3/ What is the best tool that people have found for port matching/polishing work?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Guest Zornyan's Avatar
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    Honestly imo if your not sure what tools to use ( i may be wrong) but it sounds like your not experienced and will most likely fcuk you head by attempting it)

    not a dig mate. But polish a little bit too much or opening up a port 1mm more than it should be and you will ruin it.

    On a helpful note thr guy building my race spec head has a set of uprated supertech valves for sale at trade price. Let me know if your interested and ill fly you his number

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  4. #4
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    Well thanks for that Zornyan! I'm guessing your young and inexperienced hence getting someone to do the work for you. I started work in a garage in 1980 perhaps before you were breathing!

    It's just that I've had nearly all my tools stolen just a few scrappy odds and ends left (the sort of thing that you have modded to do a certain job at the time) and I may as well upgrade while I can. It's just an interesting hobby these days and no longer my job.

    Oh and I said port matching/polishing. Ask your mechanic he will explain the difference.
    Last edited by GTSX; 14-09-2013 at 09:34.

  5. #5
    Guest Zornyan's Avatar
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    I know what the work entails. But theres a difference between being in a garage (for all i know that means kwik fit) and being an engine builder/machinist.

    For one i do all my own work to my car, the only work i do not do myself is engine building due to how precise it is and it requires experienced hands.


    The "mechanic" as you refer to him is rob the owner of pec and he used to work for mountune building 10k rpm mk1/2 escorts cossies etc. (Infact hes so good when he left mountune they outsourced all work to his new company because they couldnt find someone better)

    so its safe to say hes the best in the business.

    I said no offence in previous post. Sounded like you were just some guy asking to diy polish and port match his head. I merely said that theres many people that have attempted it in the past that cause an ill effect if anything due to not knowing what their doing.

  6. #6
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    Well yes Kwik fit started in 1971 but no I have never worked for them or anyother business akin.

    Instead fo crap comments why not just answer the questions if you can or just don't post up if you can't.

    That way it stays on topic.
    Last edited by GTSX; 14-09-2013 at 10:03.

  7. #7
    Guest Rochester's Avatar
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    Boy oh Boy Zornyan, did you pick the wrong guy to patronise.

    GTSX is an engine builder and capable machinist of a very high order indeed.

    He did a bloody good stand up job of rebuilding my engine way back when, amongst a number of others. Never missed a beat then or since. "Due to how precise it is and requires experienced hands". Yep, that about sums it up.

    One of the good guys and genuinely knowledgeable without feeling the need to blart on about it or show off. About as far from a work experience KwikFit spanner monkey as it is possible to get.

  8. #8
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    from my own CA18 & RB25 head rebuilds, I used the following:

    cheap clarke valve compressor, adjustable on one side only, the bit that pushes on the retainer is 20mm from memory. wish I'd bought the better one that's adjustable both sides as that cheap one has had to be modified with an angle grinder a narrower 16mm adapter would probably be better and avoid potentially scuffing the lifter bores.

    new valves - don't know but I'd take a look at any of the usual retailers - rhdjapan, frsport, rockauto, even amayama, if you can get a decent quote. if Nissan in France is anything like here, these will probably be cheaper.

    I didn't do any porting to my RB25 head or the last CA18 head I worked on - the ports are already large. what I did remove was using small 6mm tungsten carbide burrs and that was just port matching.

    if you're careful and take it easy, they work well. if you want something a little less aggressive, the tapered sanding drums you get in the american porting kits are handy.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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