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Thread: I want to get a bike license

  1. #201
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    Probably, but I haven't It's still in good nick after 10k of all weather riding - it was changed in December.

    My theory is that if I keep it fairly oily, the shite that gets on it will just get flung off into the chain guard/indicator/number plate, leaving a shiny chain underneath

  2. #202
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    10k have you needed to adjust your chain in that time?

  3. #203
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    I've done 25k since I passed my test at the end of May last year

    Well the wheel's been out once for a new tyre and I adjusted it shortly after that, I think the fitter left it a bit slacker than it should've been. It's not been touched in the last 7k.

  4. #204
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    I suppose if you do 100 miles a day that's gonna rack up! I think I need a new tyre as it's a bit cracked, don't wanna spend money on it though!

  5. #205
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    Tyres are (hopefully ) the only bit that's touching the ground, don't skimp I'd recommend Michelin Pilot Road 2. 3s are meant to be better but I've not tried them yet. Had 13k out of my rear before replacing it due to a puncture and up to almost 20k on the front but it almost needs replacing. They're dual compound so the edges are softer than the middle.

  6. #206
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    Coming back to the thread after a few days away so a few comments to make...

    Firstly, Spencer, if you need to change your line mid-corner (like because someone is on your side of the road), don't dip the clutch just turn your eyes towards where you want to be and lean whilst holding a steady throttle.
    Dipping the clutch will make you more likely to understeer and reduce grip.
    Looking at the hazard will make you steer towards it.
    Leaning more will allow you to tighten your line and, unless you are cranked right over with your knee dragging already, you're unlikely to fall off due to too much angle.
    You can accelerate to tighten your line or decelerate/brake to widen your line but they're fairly advanced techniques if you are not used to trail-braking.

    Regarding Scottoilers...I used to use them on my bikes when I did big miles (20K+ per year) but they are quite expensive to buy and fiddly to fit. They can double the life of your chain though as long as you remember to top them up

    The main reason for lubing a chain is to keep the seals on each link soft so they don't let the sealed-in lubricant out so my favourite chain lube is a chain wax. It sprays on, gets into the links and then sets. It means you get very little mess from the lube flicking off onto the wheels etc. Any mess that does get on the wheels can easily be cleaned off with WD40.

    I used to clean my chains with a toothbrush and duck oil. It doesn't damage the seals in the links.

    Regarding tyres, do get the best you can afford. How VoodooMelon gets 20K out of a tyre though is beyond me I used to get around 4K out of a rear and 5 or 6K out of a front before they felt so squared off it was horrid to ride.

  7. #207
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    Just thinking about the chain adjustment...

    You need to measure the slack with a rider (preferably the same size as you) on the bike as having load on the suspension will change the swingarm angle and hence the amount of slack. You want around 1 inch of up and down movement in the centre of the lower run but check your manual.

    Check that the teeth on the sprockets are even and not sharp points at the top. If they are worn, change both sprockets and the chain.

    You also need to see if you can lift the links off the rear sprocket as this indicates a worn chain. Once they start stretching, it indicates that the chain is reaching the end of its life.

    If you have the chain too tight, two things will happen. You will damage the oil seal where the drive shaft comes out of the engine behind the front sprocket and you may snap your chain. A snapped chain can do a hell of a lot of damage if you are motoring when it happens.

    If you do have to change the chain, change the chain and both sprockets as a set. Anything else is a false economy as worn sprockets will damage a chain quickly and vice versa.

  8. #208
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    Thanks a lot for the comments guys. I was looking to get a Pilot 3 as everyone seems to be raving about them, I don't want to spend money because I've only just got my DAS cash. I had to book for what they had or there was a massive wait (After Christmas because I can't get the time off until then) so it was a slight stretch for me.

    I have cleaned my chain I used a toothbrush and paraffin to clean then dried it off and applied the Lucas oil I bought. The oil was very odd to me because I've never seen this foam that fizzes down into oil before The chain seems in pretty good shape, I 'know' it to be a fairly new chain and the rear sprocket looks new too so no worries there.

    I think regarding the near miss I still have the instinct to slow down when there's a cock up happening but I knew not to grab any brake

    Thanks again for the advice!

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonny Wilkinson View Post
    Regarding tyres, do get the best you can afford. How VoodooMelon gets 20K out of a tyre though is beyond me I used to get around 4K out of a rear and 5 or 6K out of a front before they felt so squared off it was horrid to ride.
    Lots of riding in a straight line. The current rear is a Dunlop Qualifier and that's almost done after 7k.
    Quote Originally Posted by spencer_foxwell View Post
    and the rear sprocket looks new too so no worries there.
    Bear in mind the front one will wear faster, since it has less teeth

  10. #210
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    Wifey's done her CBT and is now legal to hit the streets

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by arry View Post
    Wifey's done her CBT and is now legal to hit the streets
    Hopefully not literally Got her a bike yet?

  12. #212
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    Na - but probably go shopping next weekend

  13. #213
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    Main thing with bikes is learn to walk before running, we see it all the time especially at tt when people think they're John McGuinness usually locals that don't ride much or foreigners that don't know the road.

    I'm currently sat north of the mountain road waiting for some eejit to be scooped up so I can give the 14 a run!

  14. #214
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    Oh and pilot road 3s are excellent for grip, but a little less feedback than the 2s on turn in. Good though, really good.

  15. #215
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    Been reading the thread since it started and I've been shall I or not. Anyway booked my CBT on Friday and have it tommorow. Booked my theory aswell in 2 weeks.
    Thinking of doing the direct access myself aswell.

  16. #216
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    It's be an SXOC Biker take-over bid!

  17. #217
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    Yeah I'm sacking it off on the grounds of I'm just too much of an idiot guaranteed to smash myself up and I like cycling and playing my guitar too much to risk irreparable damage to my limbs...

  18. #218
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    Adjusted the chain on the blade today and... damn its impressive when set right so smooth

    But on the paddock stand after washing was re lubing the chain letting it run in first gear while applying spray and it seems I have a skight buckle in the rear wheel

    Anyone know if these can be straightened?

  19. #219
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    Yeah they can mate. Anywhere decent

  20. #220
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    Been thinking of getting my bike license since I was a kid. Always been scared of the thought of how dangerous they are and mainly been put off by family who are scared of me doing so. Now at the age of 31 I'm thinking of going for it. This thread has gave me that push.

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