Hi all, just a quick question regarding running temp,
my car at full running temperature is at 72-78 degrees.
Reading a recent thread someone stated ideal temp is 82 degrees.
Do i need a different stat or am i ok at 78 degrees full running temp?
Cheers Rich
The operating temp will be lower than the stat rated temp. The rated temp is for fully open and it starts to open about 10°C below that. Having a temp below the stat temp means the temp is being regulated by the stat. If it hits the stat rated temp then the stat is fully open and the engine has reached the limit of the cooling system.
so if my cars not reachin correct temp of 82 i need a higher temp stat?
You need to put your right foot down, and it should do the trick
oh i do (not breakin limits etc) but even sat in traffic it barely gets to 78 and i am running with no fan cowling!!
I cant see how an engine would stay under 78°C when sat in traffic, unless your fan runs all the time, even if it is cold out there. OEM fan ? If so, make sure its clutch is not dead. Maybe it stays fully engaged all the time (it hogs power, that is quite easy to feel)
Even if you were running with no stat, it should not happen. Are you reading that temp from your ECU or from an aftermarket sensor ? If aftermarket, where is it located ? Are you sure it is working correctly ? Is the gauge that you are reading from the correct one ?
I'm running stock viscous fan, aftermarket gauge and taking the temp from the top rad hose!
I have a spare sensor which i could stick in to confirm it is reading correctly!
Make sure the sensor and gauge are supposed to work together. A temp sensor is a variable resistor so you need your gauge to interpret that resistor correctly, or you could get strange results.
As for reliability, i already had ebay sensor/gauge combo that were out 10°C ...
I would not worry about your temp being 78°C AFTER the stat tbh. It means the stat is doing its job of keeping water in the engine up to temp. I am quite surprised it goes that much low in traffic, with your oem fan working too well without the cowling though. Check if the clutch fan disengages correctly.
As far as ideal temp goes, dont chase that too much at idle or in traffic. This is an eighties engine, it was pretty high tech then but still, you will have a hard time getting ideal temp all the time (that and it is not worth chasing it imho)
If you have a nistune, you can check the ECU coolant temp sensor, which is located in the head and should be more dependable and accurate.
I wouldn't worry about it too much. You may have a low temp thermostat. My SR runs around 65-70 Cruising. You'll be glad of the stat when you start hitting the tracks or doing some blasts.
ok cheers for your help peeps il stik with the current stat! as for track i need to find a nice open space to practice before i hit the track!
OK.
ive got a little bit to add to this.
My temp barely rises off the bottom notch when on the motorway. so much so i dont get any hot air in the cabin. (my greddy water temp sender has broke and im waiting for a new one to arrive but IIRC it was around 55-60 degrees on the motorway) im also concerned this is using a lot more fuel.
Idling, it takes a while but occasionally gets up to 76 degrees (when my fan switch kicks in) the two powerful fans come in and knock it down really quick, it then takes ages to get hot again.
Cooling wise i have a 40mm aliminium rad, oil cooler, PS cooler
I bought the car with a nismo thermostat (not opened it up to check tho)
if i purchased a blueprint stat that IIRC opens at 76 i think, will this mean my fans will be constantly on? (i have mistakenly put my fan switch in top rad hose)
but as suggested above, if it starts to open 10 degrees below that ie 66, this will mean the water will still be cooled by the rad as it circulates and probably not fully open on the motorway.
can anyone comment on this?
Last edited by FireStorm; 19-12-2012 at 19:49.
Nismo stat opens in the 60Deg region. If your temps on the motorway is about 70odd then its got a Nismo stat. An OEM one should open around 80 I think. My fans don't kick on till around 90Deg. I might knock it down if I'm on track.
You should be able to be adjusted depending on the fan controller?
Its not a fan controller just a 76/72 fan switch in the top rad hose.
temps on the motorway for water are sub 70 for sure. probs closer to 60. which on the main temp gauge on the clocks isnt even off the bottom line.
is this caining my fuel? the nismo stat says it keeps the engine hot enough so the engine doesnt dump extra fuel in.
"NISMO Low-Temp Thermostat allows the radiator valve to achieve a lower temperature opening at 62°C (Standard = 76.5°C). This promotes earlier coolant circulation inside the engine, reducing the power loss caused by rising coolant temperature during high speed driving at a racetrack. The valve opening temperature is set lower to within the vicinity of the threshold valve where a rich mixture boost for a low temperature condition would be triggered."
so am i using extra fuel with this low temp or not? pretty certain the temp in my top rad house was 60 on the motorway on a cold day.
Basically, under 80°C coolant temp, your ECU will command more fuel. It will not dump a lot of fuel either, but it will use more.
Get a 85/90 fan switch, it should solve your problem. I think my fan kicks in at 95°, although i can force it always on if needed (on track for example). I cant tell you where i got it because it was already installed when i bought the car. Cant tell you the exact temp either as it still is by my tuner, cant stop buying things
Nismo stands for nissan motorsport. These items are not designed for everyday driving, and what is good for the track may not be that good on the road.
Note: i hope you are using a fuse and a relay on your e-fan system. Please, tell me you did not wire the switch directly from your battery to your fan. Please.
@ pointz
Your stat is correct.
Higher temp stat is for if you want a warmer cabin in winter.
@ Firestorm Remove it and fit a stock 82°C stat.
There is no reason to fit a low temp stat. All it can do is keep the engine too cold so the ECU thinks it's still warming up and deliver a rich fuel drinking not quite warmed up mixture.
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...the-advantage/
I didnt fit a low temp stat it came with the car.
Changing my fan switch wont fix this issue. On the motorway when my fans are not active the water wont get above 60 in top rad hose if its cold.
You say if the water is below 80 it will overfuel? The stock stat opens at 76.5 so how does that work? If i change to a stock stat it will fix my issue for winter. But my fans will be constantly running in the summer unless i got a higher fan switch and or move it to the bottom rad hose. Trying to get a happy medium.
Yes my fans have been installed to a high power relay with the fan switch kicking it in or the overide switch on my dash.
You'll be using more fuel if you are using a stage chip for example.
If you have a custom map then you can tell the ECU the temperatures which are "normal"
All your stat does it control the LOWER operating temperature. Which you dont need - stock stat does its job perfectly. the UPPER operating temp depends on how much power you're making, how efficient your radiator is, and what sort of fan setup you have. Firestorm, I would seriously sort your fan setup out, if they come on before the ideal operating temperature of the car then its worse than no fan!Originally Posted by FireStorm
This is why I love the viscous fan setup, with a decent radiator it just works!
As said I would suggest a 'normal' stat and raise the fan temp by whatever method.
When Skyshack says less than 80 he doesn't mean literally <79.9
There are a number of coolant temp based tables the ECU looks at in 10* steps from -40*-110*
Each table has a % of how much to enrich the fueling. Different tables for this like starting, idle, on throttle driving etc.
As the car warms up the enrich gets less and less. 80* is the 1st table with 0 enrich. I was warming mine up recently for a compression test and at 78* and it was accessing the 80* table. Il hazard a guess 75* will be the cross over point. At 70* it's roughly 1.5% enrich, at 60* it's nearly 5% so you can see it's quite significant steps up every 10*
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