JZS14 Silvia

[Jonny Mac]

so moving forward, had some more time to get stuff done, front wheel bearing nuts were a bit of an issue

packed the bearings with grease then called driftworks as i notice the geomaster hubs have not got the two recessed lines for the bearing washer,

the two flats were missing, so called driftworks and spoke to kam, he said to put just the nut on and it'll be fine,

a little wary of this as there isn't even any part of the nut there to hit flat as a retainer, so i covered the threads in the extra strong green loc tight and torqued to 250nm



so the brake setup that was fitted to the car

Brembo R33 GTR Calipers
HEL Braided Hose
EBC 324mm skyline GTR Discs
EBC Yellow Stuff Skyline Brembo Pads




cleaned up the hub



had to put two spring washers under the original washers on the brembo bolts to space them out a little as the geomaster hubs are slightly thinner mounting points so the caliper was loose when the bolts were tight



fitted



tested a wheel on for brake clearance, et15 go on without a spacer....very tight though!

[darrengodfrey]

Damn those brakes are beautiful!

[Jonny Mac]

radiator rubbers arrived



got them fitted with a revotec fan controller in the bottom hose



rad filled up and holds water



this badge needs to make it's way onto the car somewhere.....i was thinking tie wrapped onto the kouki grill haha



heatwrapped the exhaust pipe till i ran out



some pics of the underneath with exhaust done

The sills will be ground back with a wire brush and stone chipped once the car is out of my work, couldn't do it because of the ramp legs being in the way so will do it on the floor back in the garage at home











looking nice! shame it'll get ruined

so did this....



and i powered up the fuel pump and checked all the pipes for leaks, all good


after a discussion with stuart taylor, jamie and a few others local from sxoc i've decided to lock the length of the rear traction rods to the factory length



that way i know they are the correct length and they won't be adjusted when the rear allignment settings are done

also took a little off with the grinder (looks rough) but it'll hopefully give that few mm more clearance around the driveshaft boot since the geomasters make the shaft sit almost touching it



set the ride height and the preload on the springs, this is about as high as it can go i'd say before running out of threads on the cs2's



sitting pretty, tucking front tyre



exhaust pipe hits the ramp middle piece that runs along the floor so it's pretty low as that's only an inch off the ground......:S

going to smash everything on the floor unfortunately

plan now is to finish off the wiring and get the car out for it's first road test

[Jonny Mac]

left to do before I can drive it

stuff:
secure fuel pipes at rear chassis leg above camber arm
align car properly
fit p/s pump replacement washer on top hose
tidy loom at bulkhead and mount wiper relay inside car
fit bungs for recirc coming from ASH ebay
wire fan switch through a new relay, also wire revote fan controller


INTERIOR
-fit hydro
-fit harnesses around cage and tighten floor mounts
-buy sunstrip
-secure battery into boot and make earth cable
-fit Dakota rev counter signal converter
-fit water temp gauge to dash with 12v ign feed
-tidy up ecu loom on pass floor finally and secure ecu, possible mount in glovebox for easy removal
-switches for fan in dash
-fix HID relay for headlight

[rd_jon]

Coming on nicely

[MapBoy]

I think you are due a video update Jonny!

[darrengodfrey]

Just seen the videos on instagram sounds beautiful

[Jonny Mac]

big updates!

spent tuesday night doing most of the finishing work on the car

wired in the fans with a on/off switch on the dash under the clocks to a relay in the bay then to one of the fans

then wired in the revotec relay to the other one as it has a sensor in the bottom hose now

wired in the water temp gauge using feed from the stereo loom for a switched ign live

then wired in the greddy boost gauge using a light source from the back of the clocks

fitted all the interior back together with everything working too which was a bonus, just a few more bits to go back on like the glovebox and foot well trims

ran the battery cable down the diver side into the boot and cable tied to the cage and so on







got the bungs fitted to block the factory recirc, so the engine is finished now



replaced one of the p/s washers for the fluid bottle to pump neck so was ready to go

pretty sure there was more stuff done too but i can't remember!

later on in the evening i thought i'd done everything and tried to fire it up

http://youtu.be/tQ5kIoRQvjg



unfortunately wouldn't go....turns out, long story short an earth for the ecu relay didn't have good contact as i'd had it on/off a few times, so it was not turning on the ecu.

called it a night as it was 11pm and i'd been at work since 7am that day and had work 7am the next day again....

----------------

wednesday night mark came round (redsx) to give a hand with getting it going

so with a new earth for the relay everything was working and it started up,

as expected it needed the coolant bled which was done in minutes and the power steering bled

this wasn't so simple, the pump was making some pretty bad noises and it was leaking everywhere

decided to carry on though, listen to that exhaust noise it sounds AMAZING!

http://youtu.be/CtZlThrvCsQ



so with the coolant bled and half power steering it was time to see if it would move on it's own......

ahhh wow!! what a fantastic feeling it is to drive it again!! needs alligned but apart from that it's amazing

really can't wait to get it out and open it right up fully!!


---------

next day, after a discussion with dan smith, decided to do what he's done and fit a soarer banjo to the pump as that's the correct size and make it all mix together somehow


it would seem that the s14 factory pipe banjo is smaller than the soarer banjo


so emptied the power steering fluid and removed the s14 pipe




removed the power steering pump and swapped it with my spare one from my old soarer which i knew was good



banjo comparisson can be seen here



so the hydraulic shop next door to my work managed to get the soarer banjo onto the s14 pipe

used a female fitting onto the s14 hose



and another nut onto the soarer banjo pipe

which went together like this



fitted and filled up with new fluid



started it up and it was perfect! such a difference, new pump was quiet and had no bleeding issues, was basically fully bled by the time i started the engine as i'd manually turned the wheels lock to lock and left it overnight with the cap off

apart from that the noises are pretty cool too! sounds like a ridiculous race car now haha

[Jonny Mac]

took the car outside for a test around the car park, the brakes are a little odd, i don't know if my cylinder can make enough pressure for the r33 gtr calipers/z23 rear calipers, i need to find out about this






















i still have the skirts, spats, greddy lip to go on and some 25mm spacers if arches will allow after an allignment then i'll get some more pics

needs a polish!

the harnesses, dakota rpm converter and one or two little other things still are to be fitted

apart from that roll on the 1st of march so i can tax it and drive it!

[nash`s]

done a great job with this mate looks awesome

[immy21]

Christ almighty that sounds sweet! Good work

[Ko_Na_H]

Awesome!

[rob_skater]

epic build!!

good work pal, must have cost you an arm and a leg!

[naz200]

Great effort! Sounds awesome. I'm sure it will be amazing to drive too

[Jonny Mac]

thanks guys

bit of an update, waiting on some parts arriving, having a running issue with it now since it's only started to reverse out of the garage then parked every day so I think it's choked up the plugs

taking them out tomorrow morning for a clean, I had the idle control valve off tonight for a wee bit of a clean including the part inside the inlet manifold

I have a 2jz pcv valve on order from Toyota and will be here Thursday, mark noticed my current hose has collapsed and expands when revved, so I thought I'd best to change both since the 2jz valve is a highly recommended upgrade anyway

battery box is on the way from ebay, and a battery voltage gauge for the dash

along with a compression tester so I can be sure it's all good

booked into Wallace performance next week for a 4 wheel lazer alignment and will be buying my road tax on Saturday morning so I can drive it home from my work

oh also putting a new battery in tomorrow

[shuttersound]

I am so unbelievably jealous of you for this, Jonny. Need to see it skidding!

[liamjrhodes]

Looks amazing! would love a jz in mine

[jizzle]

Really cool car mate, love the look of it and the noise really makes me reconsider the plans with my car! hahahahaha!

[YannG]

IT LOOKS AAAAMMMMAAAAZZZIIINNNGGGG! Awesome job dude....

[Jonny Mac]

ha thanks guys

I'd not recommend anyone to do this conversion, it has been a stress and a load of money that I don't have/thought I did/makes me skint every single week haha

so today I started it up to move it and it kept misfiring and won't idle

pulled out the plugs and they were black and chocked up so I've cleaned them and left the cylinders open overnight to dry out any excess fuel

I've removed and cleaned the idle control valve, there is a little red filter on the inside of the inlet manifold for it, I removed it and it was black, so that was cleaned up spotless and should make a nice difference

also the new battery came today, along with the new battery tray and a voltage gauge so i'll be fitting those tomorrow night

tomorrow's plan for the car:

check fault codes on ecu
if none swap ecu with my spare soarer ecu
refit plugs and coils (possibly swap with my spare coils if a fault code is shown)
fit battery tray in boot and new battery
wire in Dakota rpm converter
fit new coil pack clips
fit new pcv valve+hose on rocker cover

ideally it needs a long drive to clear it out as it has been started and stopped a few times for short moves in/out of the workshop twice a day