JZS14 Silvia

[Jonny Mac]

a few more jobs were done before the subframe was fitted

the pegs/studs on the car were all covered in copper grease,
the diff was filled up with new oil
brake pipes were fitted to the car with a new T piece

was going to fit the rear calipers but realised the s14 bolts are too long so i bought some new bolts from nissan for the z32 rear calipers

then after much hassle it's on....the solid bushes make it much harder to fit than a set of polybushes

this is the only pic i have at the minute, i'll take loads more once the brakes and coilovers are finished



dropped off my coilovers, V brackets for sills and some more parts to be fitted

the problem now is that it was snowing a few days ago

it's suddenly become freezing here....the garage was too cold to work in, the main door lets in a draft because of a gap along the bottom

it's literarly too cold to do anything just now so i'm leaving it a few days to see if the weather picks up a little

on the plus side I decided to treat myself to a snap on creeper board....right at the end of the build :S wish i'd bought this from day 1...would have made life so much easier!

got it brand new for a good price from the local snap on dealer that comes to my work

[Jonny Mac]

List for reference of what's left to do.....this way I can log into sxoc when i'm at the garage working on the car if I forget my paper list haha

UNDERNEATH
secure fuel pipes at rear chassis leg above camber arm

COOLING SYSTEM
-wire fan switch for drift days
-wire up water temp gauge

INTERIOR
-fit hydro
-fit harnesses
-buy sunstrip
-secure battery into boot with box and secure cable, make an earth that’s suitable for it
-fit battery kill switch with insulated terminals into center console or dash
-fit Dakota rev counter signal converter
-fit water temp gauge to dash
-tidy up ecu loom finally and secure ecu, possible mount in glovebox for easy removal
-switches for fan in dash



Still to buy:
Front brake discs 324mm skyline r33 gtr

[Jonny Mac]

have been buying loads of bits online, gauges, vacuum pipe, interior parts, seat rails etc

tried on the shifter and lucky enough my autobacs dildo fits on with the nissan thread insert remoevd

just think it'll be a bit high!



bought some shit on ebay to use as temp monitoring, going to buy a dakota converted for the rev counter eventualy and an spa temp gauge once i have a bit more spare cash





reason i bought an ebay coolant temp gauge was because i wanted to be sure that i had an acurate reading over the sr dash gauge

however my plan was cut short because the top water neck pipe was too small to take the water sensor take off i'd bought



so after looking around online and speaking with a few people it seems the 1jz has it's own water gauge sensor

my thoughts then were to take that sensor out, fit an adapter and make my own gauge run off that hole

went on ebay



hopefully this plan will work

just need to sort out small efficent fans!

also bought a factory soarer downpipe as apparently they help reduce chance of having boost spikes compared to a 3 inch downpipe, this should also help with making the exhaust

stripped the heat shields off and i'll be trying it on the car when i go to work on it next




oh yeh, also had a massive 76mm greddy gauge show up and some new boost pipe 3+5mm, and some 8mm for the rad expansion tank but it's blue i ordered black

[Jonny Mac]

few more things done last night/tonight,

rear coilovers cleaned, adjusted and regreased then fitted,
rear propshaft on and will have to trim a little off the front gearbox input spline as it's too close and looks like it'll thump the back of the box,

went to weld the exhaust hanger up and ran out of gas half way through, made a nice mess but it's strong enough so it'll do, it's out of sight so it wont be seen haha....

[Jonny Mac]

slowly working my way through the list when i can get the time

coilovers were cleaned with a soft wire brush and washed down with some carb cleaner to remove the old grease, they've only done a few summer months on the road and they looked shit already! paint's started coming off the springs already!

cleaned, adjusted and regreased wound them up 3cm for now as the hubs lower the car roughly 50mm anyway

so i'll have a bit of playing around with it when i'm ready for allignment to get my height perfect

before on the left and after on the right



and fitted to the car, along with brake pipe covers that have been painted silver

had somehow managed to fit a camber arm backwards on the passenger side so that was unbolted from the hub and spun round the correct way



welded up a hole on the apex backbox, it's an awful weld as i'd ran out of gas half way through haha

i also took a little bit off the prop, just wanted to make sure i had a safe ammount of clearance in the back of the gearbox since the prop is a tad longer than i asked for, dressed up the end again with a dremel and put a taper on it



fits perfect now and with the prop in hard to the back of the box the left picture between flanges shows how much clearance it now has

so the prop was fitted front and rear sections, along with the handbrake cables being secured across eachother so they fit perfectly over the studs on the floor with both locating pins in

bought 5 litres of this comma 75w90 gl4 oil to just use to get me going first, i'll be changing all fluids to better oils before going drifting

put in 4 litres so far, going to open fill plug and fill oil till it leaks out of the hole next time i'm at the car, i don't want to risk overfilling the box



lastly thanks to clive for the recaro passenger rail it means i'll get my seat bolted in without any hassle

[Jonny Mac]

a few more jobs done tonight after work as I managed to get an hour on the car,

updated the list of jobs left to do above (removed stuff done):

rear driveshaft nuts set to 250nm with new split pins

all the cage bolts have been tightened and cage is finished,
gktech handbrake button is now on,
rear strut brace fitted and tightened in now,
clutch cylinder is now sorted and in for final time after a bit of messing about before and I have a full clutch pedal with full disengagement when pedal pressed
recut one of the bad threads on the turbo Y pipe so I can now bolt on the soarer front pipe and decide how it'll meet the rest of the exhaust

[Jonny Mac]

not been near the car lately, picked up my parts from stevie the painter made an amazing job! dropped off another set of vertex skirts to be done as spare just incase my first set gets destroyed with a delam

ordered some more parts from Toyota, front sump dipstick, p/s pump washers and ordered some from Nissan also so hopefully will be able to seal up the pipes

can't wait to fit all these!!

possibly found fans, need to go over to the garage and measure the gap between rad to find out if I can fit them, they are 3 and 1/2 inch deep so I don't think I'll have space for them but here's hoping

[ianlea73]

Are the spats genuine?they look like a superb fit.

[Jonny Mac]

no, they are from magic aero, look him up on facebook, they are a great fit, my painter who hates fibreglass said himself they were better quality than any other fibreglass part he's worked with. paul (magic aero) uses his own made up magicaero fibreglass formula which is also stronger

100% recommend him!!

new ideas......been doing some research

so i measured the gap between my engine and rad, it's only 2inches....DOH!

after reading up as much as i could find, there are no 2inch thin electric fans which would be able to flow enough air to keep a jz cool

why is it that everyone goes from electric fans back to a viscous on an sr? because they are not efficent enough.

if they can't keep an sr cool, what are they going to do on a jz!

so the idea now is rather than rely on two tiny slim electric fans, i'll move the mid mount intercooler back down to the front position behind the bumper and run some big high power peugeot 306 push fans infront of the radiator

hopefully this setup will work better than having a mass of squashed parts

theory being build the car to be reliable and work well as a drift car, if the difference between having short intercooler pipes and overheating problems or having longer pipes but can get an extra few laps each time before max safe temp reached then that's what i'll be doing

[Jonny Mac]

merry Christmas everyone!

some more parts arrived and got some work done on xmas eve since it was my first day off work in months

hks fuel cut defender
plugs bkr7e (need to gap them to correct gap for jz)
dakota digital rpm converter



thanks to dale again i managed to get a second gearbox clutch cover for my R154

total of around £50 second hand for the pair, toyota want £200 :S



tried on a wheel



also tried on some more body parts, just roughly held up skirts and rear spats....car made it onto finalboss



took home my brake pipe flaring tool from work, it can do 5/16's also which was perfect for flaring the 8mm fuel pipes



so got some copper pipe ran along the chassis rail under the car, this is alot safer than having two rubber pipes along the floor

i'll be adding some heat protection along the back of these for when the exhaust is made



still to stonechip the front half of the car, going to do this when it's up on a lift/ramp at my work not doing that job on my back again haha

wasn't happy with the top cooling hose so luckily enough the top sr20 rad hose cut in half has the perfect bend that i need



this will work perfectly also swapped over the rail on the recaro seat

going back to the garage tomorrow (boxing day) and will be fitting the last brake pipe to get the brakes all bled and working and if i can get some jubilee clips onto the fuel pipes providing the local autosave is open, then hopefully will get the car down on all 4's and pushed out the garage and reversed back in for the front end work to begin, cooling system, intercooler and a few other things up front so I can get it finished and ready to head over to my work for the final touches....woo!

[Jonny Mac]

last brake pipe was fitted today, brakes bled and all work fine with no leaks, all new fluid in and used a vacuum pump on the bleed nipple at the back to pull the fluid through

fuel pipes all connected up with some jubilee clips, managed to find a box of new clips inside the car on the rear shelf, knew I had bought a box months ago!!

then it was dropped down onto all 4 wheels, it's very low at the back just now, car looks ridiculous since it's still got the standard front shocks and springs fitted

also thanks to Jordan and kev for the push, managed to get the car out of the garage and reversed in, so that means I have a load more room to work on the front now

tomorrow's plan is to get the intercooler +pipework done, vacuum pipes done, plugs gapped and fitted, and if there's time i'll get some of the interior work done

[joey200sx]

Mega work put in. This will be epic .

[Jonny Mac]

cheers dude

didn't get as much work done on the car over last 2 days as things didn't go to plan, something else chopped it's way through my day.

fans now on and fitted with tie wraps to get position right.....got some pre drilled steel strips on the way from ebay to hopefully use and make some sort of secure mounts for the fans

rad sits in fine with them also, has a small gap between both with no contact since I've chopped up the fan surrounding plastics so much

went to fit the intercooler and again ebay cheap junk, the brackets are not much use as they are not long enough, so I'm going to get some threaded bar and make a slightly different mount for them (same as I done to your s15 john)

away on holiday for a week over the new year period, then when I'm home i'll be getting the car over to my work to make the exhaust

[Jonny Mac]

just home from a weeks holiday with the family, so time to commence battle with the car!

made an order over xmas with driftworks, tein rods and ends, geomaster tension rods, a t shirt, rack boots and stuff

thanks to dan smith he's sending me a loan of his soarer downpipe which has been modded to fit an s14, saves me chopping mine up for now so when I fit a modded cross member i'll chop mine up around that, then will send his back, that will make the exhaust fab a little easier for now

sending bits to get modified, will post up all info on it and who's doing it once I get bits back, going for extended + braced stock lower arms and will have a modified cross member to move the rack but i'll use offset spacers for now just to get things going

anyway, after a bit of a dilemma cutting my leg and getting stitches ruining my holiday I can move my leg again meaning i'll be able to crawl all over the garage floor tomorrow fitting intercooler and other btis

Dumping these here for reference for anyone:

Steering Rack Move / Cross Member Mod

http://slideeffect.blogspot.co.uk/20...ification.html

lower arm extending / modifying

http://slideeffect.blogspot.co.uk/20...trol-arms.html

[Jonny Mac]

Happy New Year!

forgot to post this earlier, that was the car being rolled out of the garage to be spun round, looks so stupid with coilovers on the back and standard shocks/springs up front



the peugeot 306 twin push fans fitted where the mid mount intercooler was



they are a good fit!





had chopped the cowling down a good bit on them to get them in and also means less of the rad is covered



made up a secure mount at the bottom to keep the fans from touching the front bars on the slam pannel,

used threaded bar (cut it down to the nut with a grinder after pic) sand some big penny washers and nuts, only thought was though first sight of a slight bump and that bar will go right through the rad or the intercooler



will do for now though just to get it running safe


got the front mount fitted battery tray hole cut out also



didn't realise until today that an aftermarket s14 intercooler kit uses 2.5 inch pipe for the turbo side and 2.75 for the throttle body side (well my kit did anyway)

so thankfully out of my massive box of crap i managed to get two s14 2.75 inch throttle body fmic pipes and cut them up to fit what i need

i do unfortunately have the recirc pipe and cold start pipe for an sr outlets still on one of the pipes so they will have to be blocked off, thinking about squashing them in a bench vise but don't know if they will stay shut under pressure, i'll probably just get bungs and fit them

so the setup consists of so far:

turbo 64mm to 70mm reducer
70mm pipe with bends
silicone joiner
70mm pipe
70mm to 76mm 90 degree silicone elbow
core
70mm to 76mm 90 degree silicone elbow
pipe
join
pipe
70mm 90 degree elbow to throttle body

happy enough as it's a fairly steady consistant size for air flow

i need to buy a 1m length of 70mm black silicone hose to cut up as i need to make sure i have enough pipework covered on two parts where i was a little short with the standard 3" silicone joiners

it can be seen here with the two blue silicone hoses



apart from that it should all work pretty well in theory, it'll all be pressure tested to 1.5 bar with my home made tester and compressor

problem now is the kouki bumper won't go back on since the core is in the way, going to have to cut it up which means i'll probably have to take some off the greddy lip too since it goes to the edge that's hitthing the core

really want to retain the factory fogs too! will hopefully all fit ok with a little trim here and there :S

[Jonny Mac]

got the dash in tonight, bolted in and fully fixed in place,

just leaves gauges, dakota rev converter, harnesses, seats and few small things for the inside to be finished

going to get the seats and harnesses fitted tomorrow night if the weather stays up as i can't open the drivers door wide enough in the garage to get the seat in

also rerouted the battery cable a bit better behind the dash so it's out of the way

just need to fit a kill switch along the line and run it underneath the center console

[Jonny Mac]

have been on the car late the last 3 nights in a row, have always been side tracked with other jobs on it to get some of the main list done haha

managed to get some more stuff done

thermostat changed
whole vacuum system pipework replaced and a load of junk removed so it's simple now
boost gauge and water temp wires ran into cabin
mbc fitted at twin turbos
new dipstick tube (proper one for front sump) fitted
plugs gapped bkr7e to 0.028 (going to fit them tonight), will also be checking condition of coils

[Chriscooke]

You will have to trim the lip also mate, Both myself and nash have had the same problem although we were lucky enough to find it while test fitting and before paint.

[s200rat]

plugs gapped bkr7e to 0.28 (going to fit them tonight

typo i hope? 0.028" and not 0.28mm?

[Jonny Mac]

haha whoops!! yeha typo

also as said on fb thanks chris! look forward to seeing the pics, just uploading a few pics now of what's been going on the last few days