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Thread: JZS14 Silvia

  1. #201
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    so basically not a good update!....i'm yet again waiting on the post man.....

    massive thanks to mark for helping recalibrate the tps, tedious job!

    my 90 degree fittings arrived for the fuel rail

    got them assebled onto the braided hoses



    then swapped the fuel filter with a new one



    and went to fit the new injectors and fuel rail....

    nope

    the plugs are different, went online and couldn't find anyone breaking a uk spec 2j supra or 7mgte with the same plugs, so i was impatient and went and paid driftmotion alot of money for 6 new plugs with pig tails




    then 6minutes after i paid them, nigel my mate messaged me saying he had sourced me some....doh! so i bought them and will just sell the driftmotion ones on when they get here

    i know you can grind down the tabs on the side however every single injector plug on my loom was broken anyway and all held on with tie wraps, in the end it's better replacing them



    along with a new alternator 'extension' lead but i'll be chopping that off and using the new plug on my loom

    made a new set of power wires for the injectors, they all came from the resistor pack and stripped the loom back to one of the injector main black/orange feeds to give the resistor pack some power



    then put on the rail for a test fit to make sure the fuel pipes weren't leaking

    just aswell i checked....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uG9R...2bK4jNSccYGorA

    http://youtu.be/uG9RDVApsO8




    turns out the welder had marked the sealing face of one of the fittings when pulling away with the torch just simply with the heat

    anyway, new fittings are on the way and i now cannot get anything else done until they arrive....


    so i made the screen wash work by stealing the rear wash pipe and ran some cable from the fusebox up front, just need to make a support bracket



    and put in my black recaro just to see how it will look, still waiting on nengun to send me my rail adapters, after being told a posting date, they have delayed it twice, quite annoying!

    pretty annoying to be honest as i'm so close to booking for mapping!

    oh also ment to add, i bypassed the heat exchanger's oil/water cooling mixer, this will hopefully keep temps seperate/down too, i'll be removing the fitler housing with just a stud coming from the block next and an oil cooler too!

    Last edited by Jonny Mac; 04-11-2014 at 12:59.

  2. #202
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    i've decided to properly convert the car into mph and make up something to correctly display the speed rather than what i've previously had

    original cars mileage in km's: 100456
    new mph clocks: 69489

    so i've added around 8-9 thousand miles onto the clock with using higher mileage mph clocks but it's all i have available,

    i tried winding back a higher mileage set i got free from handsomedez on sxoc but that didn't work



    and some blue lights as i'm matching the whole dash



    along with some t3 blue led's for the climate control pannel



    then onto the gearbox work, my box runs a cable drive speedo setup, this is the martin crawler speedo driver converter to allow a toyota multi plug and dakota converter

    bought the converter from martin crawler brand new, along with pins and a plug from toyota, luckily i managed to pickup the dakota second hand for £70 ish



    assembled the plug with a little grease, then extended the 3 wires on the plug around 3 feet to make sure i can have enough length to run the converter inside the arm rest for easy access



    will update this with more pics later when i download them from my phone

    my bride recaro passenger rail adapters arrived from nengun



    unfortunately one month on, i'm still waiting on my driver bride rail from jdm distro, was told to expect up to 3 weeks delay for posting....apparently the parts aren't even in the country yet eithe


    had my welder come back and weld on new fittings



    so the fuel system is now sealed, so with that i put on the new toyota inlet mani gasket set and throttle body gasket



    and got everything back together with the new sard fpr and braided hoses



    then the annoying part......the emanage

    tried the emanage on the car and it wouldn't run

    thanks to nigel, mark and dan for all the suggestions and help!

    turns out the boost cut map was set to 0.0v so the emanage wouldn't output a map sensor voltage to the ecu



    the emanage would start the car but run stupidly rich and die on it's own, i set the injector sizes up correctly too.

    i wasn't going to keep trying it as i don't want bore wash, the aem wideband can only read as low as 10 and it was stuck at a solid 10.0......

    the red light was flashing when running saying fault codes 24, 25 and 26

    so i took it apart and checked the jumper pins, they were all setup as it says in the manual, checked the rotary screws on the front, 7-4-0 as they should be

    everything was setup as it should be, i was stumped and spent a weekend testing everything,

    injector wiring, both cam and the crank sensors are within factory spec, timing is ok, was stumped,

    all the plugs were coated so fuel was definately getting through, certainly no faulty injectors



    eventually i sent the harness and the ecu down to nigel who i bought the harness from for checking, massive thank you to him as he found the firmware on the unit was corrupt and causing issues after trying it on his car and laptop (after many connection issues)

    he updated it with the newest version and has sent me the most recent software for emanage which has wideband logging and a few other new features

    decided since it's a matter of days until mapping, i didn't want anything failing on the rollers when the boost is turned up, after speaking with paul whiffin, he runs these whifbitz uprated ignition coils on his 1000+bhp supra

    since my coils are nearly 20 years old, i bought a set of them and some new BKR8EIX since i'll need to swap out my 7's for 8's with running more boost

    by the looks of it and what i've read on various supra forums, they are basically super sparks but without the branding or the yellow jackets





    also bought one of the studs from him for removing the oil filter housing/heat exchanger



    renewed the propshaft seal since i had caught it putting the prop in months ago lying on my back in the garage and just wanted to change it for maintenance, was only £9 for the seal

    drained the oil



    regreased the universal joints with the gun, put some rubber grease on the shaft to help it slide in the prop seal on the box without tearing it this time




    so tomorrow i'll be fitting the emanage again hopefully without any issues and get the car ready for a base setup so i can drive to mapping!!!

    FINGERS CROSSED!

  3. #203
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    i drove my car today all the fueling is spot on

    just needs mapped now with the boost turned up, I have the gfb controller set to 0 so I'm driving on actuator pressure

    the only issue I have is when my lights are on, the temp gauges jump up 20 degreese! :S so tomorrow i'll be making new earths for them and also making sure the power supply is still ok

  4. #204
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    --------------------------------------

    so, the new plugs and coils went in



    then the emanage

    everything worked



    afr's are good and the live realtime data is all displaying correctly

    many thanks to nigel west for all the help with sorting out my bad emanage, it's working great now, if you have an emanage, give him a shout as he sells usb cables and harnesses for them, made my harness and it's perfect

    tidied it up into the glovebox, made a nice hole with a big drill, then realised my plugs wouldn't go through so i cracked out the dremel and made a rough square



    unfortunately my bulbs were too small for my climate control so i've ordered more, t4 this time

    because my alternator plug was worn, the wires were not being pushed onto the terminals correctly,

    i've since sorted this with buying a 3 pin round alternator extension on ebay,

    then just depin the side you don't need and push them into your current crimps on the toyota loom and tape up

    all works fine now and no battery light anymore! and a total cost of £9, which is cheaper than just a plug from toyota if i remember correct



    also fitted the martin crawler box speedo adapter and cable, just need to run them up to the dakota and a wire to the stock speedo unit via the old sr gearbox loom i've left connected behind the dash against the fusebox



    i've assembled together the bride MO adapter plates onto my bride rail and then onto the bottom of my recaro seat, they didn't take too long to get here from nengun but the driver rail from jdm distro is still not here!! getting annoyed waiting now as i was told 3 weeks....

    also put in some cage padding, need to order more though as i've ran out before the job was finished



    had a little problem with my temp gauges, they would shoot up when i turned on the lights, after a big struggle, it turned out the greddy gauge bulb holders were causing a short in the system, not enough to blow a fuse but it was enough to throw positive voltage down the earth wire which was earthed to the same point as the gauges!!

    all fixed now though!

    and while i was trying to find this issue, i removed the HID's from my car temporarily for now as i was trying to fault find,

    i have put back in two new standard h1 bulbs with the original wiring back together, i had the headlight allignment checked by the mot tester at my work as i've never done it since swapping the headlights over, they were basically facing the ground haha.



    skirts are back on and now i'm just waiting for mapping to happen on thursday woohoo!!!

  5. #205
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    Hi jonny. I can see you still have the sx bug. Still miss mine (the one you bought). How long have you had this one?

  6. #206
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    fuccccccking wild.

  7. #207
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scouser View Post
    Hi jonny. I can see you still have the sx bug. Still miss mine (the one you bought). How long have you had this one?
    hi rob! haha yeh unfortunately like everyone else on this forum I'm stuck with the bug....this one I've owned for nearly two years now but to be fair it's been an entire car rebuild, I've always considered spraying it kuro black to match my first one :S never got over having to sell that car haha....! any thoughts on coming back to nissans?

  8. #208
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    stevie had painted my spare timing cover and cam covers, made an awesome job as usual! so i threw on the belt cover for now, i'll be doing the timing belt and rocker covers+new gaskets over the winter

    colour is awesome



    thursday finally came! drove down to performance hq to have russ patton map the car for me



    this is a very strong recomendation, seriously good mapper! very talented guy. i learned quite alot in a short period of time with him also which is always good.

    the car now drives awesome, it's like an animal on the road!

    i'll make a start about what went on....only had one real issue of the whole day which was a bonus! as i expected much worse since it's this car haha

    got the car setup on the dyno



    started checking everything before we started, base timing, fuel pressure, inj 1 was probed and a few other things

    sytec gauge says 3bar, which you can clearly see here their pressure sensor says 3.4 bar! so i'll have to findout who i bought the gauge from and request a new one

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwLg...ature=youtu.be



    anyway, that was setup correctly and the runs begun


  9. #209
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    first few runs on the wastegate spring at 1.0 bar

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVobta4klf4







    then started to up the boost, which wouldn't go up, turns out i was missing a small blanking plug on the wastegate top half so the pressure was not being made,

    sorted that and the car began to hold boost very well





    then setup the boost properly,

    basically i have too much video footage from the day and my laptop isn't powerful enough to chop it all down with movie maker without freezing or crashing since it's all big files, so i'll just upload the final pulls to youtube at 1.5 bar

    the car made 406 bhp and 357 lbft at the wheels! russ says due to the dyno using the smallest rollers, he said it will be around 470bhp at fly and 400 lbft at fly

    the afr graph shows the last two runs, russ added some fuel and finalised the run using the safer map which is best for me since it's a drift car, i wasn't worried about chasing the max figure achievable, i wanted a powerful safe map

  10. #210
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mYg...ature=youtu.be




    so that's about it pretty much! roll on the next drift day.....although the car might be going into my mums garage over winter to keep it from the snow, as me and the girlfriend are looking at selling my flat to buy a house together,

    which will mean one thing....finally MY OWN GARAGE! to keep the car in!

    there are still a few other things to tackle first with the car,

    i need to fit that oil cooler as the turbo is making my oil hotter than usual

    the cooling system needs done again as it just doesn't do the job well enough in my opinion on track, so after some research, i've bought a gktech s14 sr20 cooling fan which is much more efficent than the standard viscous,

    i've seen it used on a jz before online so hopefully without too much work, i can make it fit a jz water pump viscous coupling.

    the front end will be tubed and move the radiator forward to make space for the viscous, proper ducting will be made for it along with the oil cooler placement






    also one last thing, unfortunately jdm distro couldn't get my rail to me 5 weeks after i'd ordered it so i canceled the order and got a refund.

    i'm now looking for a bride n049 MO rail with adapter paltes to fit my recaro seat, they said it was outwith their control and was a supply issue

  11. #211
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    got my T4 blue LED blubs from ebay to finish the climate control pannel



    i've done a write up about fitting recaro seats using bride rails on sxoc, it includes a few options with different types of bride rails

    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...-Diy-Reference

    made my old bride superlow rail fit my recaro





    i'll be selling my takata harness soon as my mate's taking back the other one and i fancy a black pair of black TRS 4 point harnesses

    instigram y0



    as for now, i've spoke to my tig welder and he's happy to come up with his pipe bender during the xmas holidays and make up a front crash bar, along with hopefully a removeable slamm pannel, supports for oil cooler and new radiator mounts etc


    oil cooler kit has turned up along with a new hid kit, oh and my gktech sr20 viscous fan which hopefully i'll be able to fit to my jz water pump

  12. #212
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    decided to get rid of the takata's as i want to keep with the whole black/oem type theme

    got one trs black 4 point harness for a good price on ebay, will be buying another brand new one but i'm just waiting to see if anyone will be doing january sale deals



    bought some aero catches from ep racing, and got myself a snap off boss for the wheel



    got a new timing belt from toyota, was originally going to do it while the engine was on the stand in the begining but i didn't bother as it was replaced by the previous owner, however i'll be doing it since all the front of the car will be apart over xmas anyway



    russ emailed me a jpg of the dyno graph



    next up, my gk tech fan arrived (thanks kinghorn for sorting group buy) shame gktech don't do anything with postage deals etc on big orders

    the gk tech fan for an s14 sr20 is one of the best upgrades and potentially one of the best fans on the market, they have a 60% increase in cooling capacity from what i've read

    i was browsing speedtek's facebook page one night and came across a cefiro with a 1j using this fan, looked more into it and realised it can be done

    compared the size to a stock 1j viscous and it's pretty similar



    got a guy with a mill to measure the toyota water pump viscous unit's pcd and then match it into the gktech fan, it has bored out the middle of the gktech fan and some material from the toyota hub had to be removed to let the fan go all the way on




    hopefully with a custom made cowling this should see my coolant temps stay pretty low and work better than the electric fans i had

    my new oil cooler kit and some extra 90 degree AN10 fittings are here now, these will all go onto my mishimoto cooler and hopefully keep temps low enough during drifting



    the spare core from the kit will probably be for sale, unless i can somehow modify it into the power steering system and use it as an extra cooler for that



    replaced the bearing in my spare fan belt tensioner so when the timing belt is done i'll have a good tensioner going back on, nothing wrong with the one coming off just that it was cheap for a replacement bearing so might aswell do it

    also cleaned the unit up and gave it a lick of paint



    so got the car over to my work and started stripping stuff



    rad will need modified again to get the top water neck straight or spun 180 to angle it away from the new fan setup

    washed out the cooling system

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQxM...ature=youtu.be

    http://youtu.be/LQxM2sU9eHw



    got the crank pulley and timing covers off, alternator removed and laid out of the way



    then set the timing ready to remove the tensioner and then the old belt

    had to cut it short as i was running late for my work's xmas meal, i'll be back after christmas day to finish it with the new timing belt, new fan setup etc

    the exciting stuff starts at the weekend though as my mate is coming over with his pipe bender and we will be making a new slam pannel to move the radiator forward a few inches,

    i'll be replicating a nismo s14 front brace by bracing the front tension rod brackets and joining them with a piece of roll cage pipe,

    also will be making some sort of intercooler protection with a few bars incase i have another facial wall tap haha

  13. #213
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    loads of work has been done over the last few days, basically haven't had a christmas holiday, spent all my spare time on the car when i'm not out dog walking haha

    new timing belt on



    also a new fan belt just because i had it spare in the boot



    then the painted rocker covers went on, the paint on these is cool, sparkles nice when hit by light

    new toyota rocker cover gaskets, new toyota pcv valve rubber seal for side of cover and a new toyota breather middle pipe







    whipped off the oil cooler housing and fitted the oil filter relocation plate





    made a start at making some of the oil pipes, can't go any further now though until the oil cooler is mounted in it's final position so i know what lengths to make



    my mate paul has got some mega fab skills and done a few jobs in the past for me

    I have gave him the awful lengthy task of making the front end mega!

    first of all



    a DIY nismo power brace with extra bracing



    painted



    was a complete bitch to go back on with the tension rods still in position

    and as per my usual, every single thread was greased



    then came fitting the aero catch bonnet retainers



    unfortunately we were a bit off with getting the pins exactly right,

    using the original holes behind the headlights we put the pins in position but left them up too high which means the bonnet wasn't in it's final postion,

    so when everything went together they were off by about 1cm unfortunately, However it's not all bad as the new slam pannel can just house them slightly further back and all is good

    choppy choppy



    paul made a start to the crash bar using the oem front mounts



    made out of 42mm roll cage pipe and a proper pipe bender



    after ALOT of fitting/removing the bumper to make sure it's a nice snug fit, the front bar is done



    beefed up the oem mounts



    including an extra lower mount which will be using a 12.0 strength bolt each side



    pretty awesome tbh



    bumper hides everything and the headlight will cover the side impact bar, pretty much all looks oem from the outisde



    a good mate of mine fraser mac has started a new car group called 'aberdeen hardstyle' and came round to take some pics for that and potentially a write up on fueltopia








    paul made up some thick tubes with nuts welded ontop for the bonnet pins,

    these have been welded to the 'floor' of the engine bay behind the headlights and will be braced to be strong enough to support the bonnet pins



    that's up to date for tonight, i've literarly stuck every spare minute i have on the car just now and too many late nights are getting boring now...

    tomorrow's plan is brace up the aerocatch pin mounts and then out of 20mm tube make up a new front end holding headlights, oil cooler, radiator and whatever else

  14. #214
    Guest nash`s's Avatar
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    Looks awesome mate. Keep up the good work.

  15. #215
    Guest dan200s14's Avatar
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    Looks good jonny

  16. #216
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    Great work. Can't wait for a passenger ride

  17. #217
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    the last 5 nights in a row have been spent working on the car to get it finished, even a cheeky new years eve visit before drinking!

    cutting out part of the battery tray to make way for the new solid aero catch pin mounts



    towing this car has ALWAYS been an issue because the i/c 90 degree bend had always sat in the way, it would always mean removing the pipe or wrecking it when the rope tightens

    also the bumper covers it so it's quite useless, I had a spare trs tow strap lying in a box so i asked paul to weld it solidly to the bottom of the crash bar, that was no damage will be done if the car ever needs pulled at the front



    used it to hang while painting



    feet chopped off the rad and rewelded in new positions using other holes on bottom mounts

    this has allowed the rad to come as far forward as possible without chopping the cross member beam



    the begining of the new slam pannel, it's removeable and the ends have been capped with holes for two removeable m8 bolts



    rad mounts made up



    and oil cooler mounts too!

    i bought some extra 90 degree AN10 fittings, decided to use them wrapped around the radiator to make pipework easier



    filter relocation mounted, only trouble was the threads wouldn't match the toyota oil filter in the kit so i had to use that filter as it was the only one which would fit and was the same size



    starting to come together now!



    fmic got some new solid mounts, this is to mount it solid as i had an idea for the headlights



    new headlight mounts made up, plan for these is (hopefully it won't happen) but if there's another bump or anything along that lines, it'll hopefully fold the brackets back before destroying anything else, allowing the slam pannel to remain untouched and undamaged

    they are weak enough to fold but strong enough to hold the lights in place steady enough



    new slam pannel finished minus a mount for holding the bonnet stay pin



    with moving the rad forward, my coolant hose wouldn't work so paul made up this



    after a little chopping and some more tig welding to make a bead around the ends it's finished



    done



    chopped up an old sr20 lower rad hose and it worked perfectly

    pretty much minus some HID's, a custom made fan cowling, a bonnet stay and some painting, the front end is finished now





    the gktech fan sits there perfectly, it's a little higher than the radiator but that'll be covered with a cowling

    i've had to chop out alot of my bonnet inner skin though to get all this to fit





    wings still need adjusting to get them sitting right and so on.....

    looking mean!



    next thing to do is go back and paint a few areas that have been ground for welding etc, make a fan shroud, fit my new hid ballasts and the rest of the headlamp loom will need tucked along the front somewhere

    unfortunately one of josh's welds broke off inside my exhaust pipe and it's the stud which holds on my o2 sensor, it's not tight at one side so i have an exhaust leak,

    which will throw off my wideband gauge so i'm not to keen on driving it until this is fixed as i want to be sure my afr's are exactly as should be reading!.

    pretty much it'll be a pain to sort so i'll be making a new downpipe with a new flexi which a full 3" with bends around the rack input shaft point,

    the exhaust hits the floor everywhere so we will be making an oval exhaust next month to gain ground clearance, hopefully i'll be able to go a little lower too

    i'd like to thank my mate paul jamieson for putting in SO much time and hard work into this job lately, highly recommend him to everyone for tig welding and such like, his work is SPOT on! and if it's not right he will keep going until it's perfect. If you need his details pm me aberdeen guys!

  18. #218
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    got the front end back together and put in a new set of 6k HID's i bought online weeks ago

    i need to allign the lights again with the beam setter



    car was then moved onto the spare ramp which is never used and i could begin the next job i've wanted to sort for a while

    since going single turbo the exhaust has always pissed me off, keeps catching the speed bumps outside my house, without a flexi in the downpipe either i was worried i'd cause some damage above

    it had buffed through one of the welded joins on the back too and was leaking out there



    also when on the rolling road, i had to remove the wastegate to make an adjustment, done this by removing the lambda sensor from the downpipe and it came out the top

    the lambda sensor stud which was a bolt welded onto the back of the flange had snapped the weld and was spinning!! tightened it with vice grips holding the thread and an open end spanner

    overtime with the heat etc it must have worked it's self loose as when i tried to tighten it again the stud just fell out in my hands




    so as per usual with my car, nothing's done in half measures....:S new exhaust time

    the stud left me in a pickle, josh had welded the bolt to the lambda sensor flange, then the flange was welded ontop of the downpipe we made then the hole for the sensor drilled out

    so i couldn't get a welding torch inside at the angle to tack a new bolt in place and my exhaust was badly leaking from there since only half the sensor was held on, throwing off my afr gauge which i couldn't risk

    new exhaust time then!

    took off the downpipe and exhaust, checked the manifold for any leaks incase it wasn't just the downpipe i was hearing, all is good!



    bought a few v bands for making a new system, no more gaskets to ever leak!



    spare 3" flexi from previous box of spares

    and took delivery of some 3" 1.5 meter lengths of pipe



    the apex exhaust backbox will possibly be going too as i'm potentially making a staggered shotgun backbox now....NO silencers BLAST PIPES!

    my mate paul is chopping up some 3" pipe into loads of little angle pieces to make a 'lobster back' style downpipe, basically loads of pieces put together to form tight angles

    the exhaust will be tig stainless welded and the plan now is to make it a full oval system along the floow for maximium ground clearance

    the last thing i've done lately is get the reverse lights working

    the reverse light switch on the gearbox had basically no loom left as someone cut it super short before i bought the box, managed to get two wires soldered onto what's left and joined them into the oem sr gearbox loom which was still hanging down the back of my dash from the fusebox


  19. #219
    Guest Jonny Mac's Avatar
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    some more work was done last night

    v band on apex backbox and on bottom of flexi for new downpipe



    paul had managed to use the massive press at his work on some pieces of my pipe for the floor of the car, however when they squash normally the ends pinch and become almost pointed

    so a solid bar in the vice and each pipe was hand beaten into a circle at the sides, took me ages haha



    while i was doing that, paul started making the new downpipe



    the last pipe had to be dented in with a hammer to clear the last cylinder's manifold branch, now, since we have more time/material etc it has correct clearance and much more room to allow for expansion etc (not that it'll be much)



    and same again with the steering rack, rather than a mashed in pipe, this time it has max clearance



    one 'finished' downpipe, needs welded up which paul's going to make a jig for to stop any flex/movement with heat

    the other thing needing added is my lambda sensor stainless fitting which will be made up and a wideband bung which i have




  20. #220
    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    Nice work!!

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