Hi does anyone know of a good write up of how and where to wire the electric fans up ?????
cheers
Hi does anyone know of a good write up of how and where to wire the electric fans up ?????
cheers
It's not an upgrade it's a downgrade, quite a big downgrade as well.
Really ? cant fit the cowling anymore. thought 2 electric ones direct to the rad would be better
I run a set of audi a6 fans http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A6-C4...ht_1052wt_1026
Drift regulary on them, have one on a thermal swith and the other through relay to switch.
All good in my opinion.
Look at andyhjdm thread he's got a twin fan kit for sale s13
Mr Reckless is right though.
Your title is an oxymoron. You can't beat a fit and healthy viscous fan setup.
You can run without the cowl as long as you have the fibre undertray still fitted. If you deffo want to run cooler, run an alloy rad. the 50mm ones as almost 4 times as thick as the standard 13mm rad.
If he can't fit the cowl because he's fitted a thicker rad, then yes.
What I was suggesting was that he could compensate for the loss of cooling efficiency caused by the removal of the cowling by improving the cooling with the thicker radiator
I was presuming he's losing the cowling because he's had to move the rad back to accommodate a rad-mount FMIC. That's the only good reason to lose the cowling IMO.
Electric fans, there has been more than one case on this forum of them being connected the wrong way. Trying to blow air from engine bay out though the front of the car really doesn't work at all well.
Depends on basis you calculate it's an upgrade. Removal of constantly running fan even with a good viscous coupling has got to improve fuel consumption, so it's an upgrade.
Reliability. Out of 4 fans I have 2 scrap couplings. One has lost the seal from the rear and failed so badly that it's sized on the shaft. That really sapped power. The 2 that are still in use are both 20 years / 100,000miles old and possibly way past their best. Quite possibly an upgrade as I have removed quite a few electric fans from scrap yards and they still work.
Availability /cost. The viscous unit is unique to the S13, it's not common to any other Nissan, nor as far as I can tell any other car. The nose of the pump has a spigot that it has to fit to run true. The bolt holes for pump and fan have to be on the right pcd. It has to be right length and have correct thermal operation. New ones are way over £100.
Care to take a gamble on 35% no show from the UAE (well that would be a cert then).
http://www.amayama.com/search/?q=2108235F00
2nd hand won't be any better that what I have. 45 euro 118,000Km
http://www.lrp-autorecycling.de/EKAT...733651006.html
Twin electric fans from UK scrapyard? £20-£25 with relays and thermal switches. May need a water hose adapter.
Split it to 1/4, 50/4 = 12.5mm
1st 1/4 is about same as stock
2nd 1/4 only works 1/3 as well as 1st, so 1/3
3rd 1/4 only works 1/3 as well as 2nd so 1/9
4th 1/4 only works 1/3 as well as 3rd so 1/27
1 + 1/3 + 1/9 + 1/27 = 1 13/27 = 1.48.
About 1 1/2 times better than stock, but a 25mm would be 1 1/3 better. That extra 2x the stock thickness is only worth about 4/27 of stock and 1/10 of total cooling.
OK, yes, 50% more cooling from a new rad is LOTS better than a 20 year old stock rad that's down to 50% of new cooling. You would have to be mad to buy a new Nissan rad and the 50% better cooling will offset any deficiency in the electric fans.
manual Retail Price: $455.76, Your Price: $355.47, you save: $100.29
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...410-40f11.html
auto Retail Price: $494.06, Your Price: $391.57, you save: $102.49.
http://www.nissanpartszone.com/parts...460-40f11.html
(yes yet another 240SX part that fits 200SX)
Pug 306 d turbo fans and a apex fan contoler did the job and never overheated
A friend recently had his viscous fan fail on him.... It cost him two waterpumps a cambelt kit and a head gasket kit plus labour before he learnt what was wrong.... He now used twin fans if one fails theres always a back up....
This is a bit random... But
I fitted my alloy rad today, need to fit the fan on it...
What exactly do you guys mean by a viscus fan?
I thought a fan was A fan lol, you wire it up thermostatically (unless your the numpty who wired mine in, in which. Case you just put it to an ignition live lol
Electric fans are wired up.
Fans driven off the engine often have a coupling that slips so it doesn't hold back the engine from revving. Its called a viscous coupling - hence viscous fan.
Interesting... I don't have a fan that runs off the engine on my car... Just an electric one :s
Like this
That is a standard viscous fan. The thing in the middle with the fins is the viscous coupling. As the engine revs, the coupling slips so the fan doesn't try to accelerate at the same rate as the engine (drawing power) which would make the engine less inclined to rev. It does eventually catch up with the speed of the engine
Last edited by Jonny Wilkinson; 12-07-2012 at 23:45.
I'm not doubting the ability of the standard viscous fan set up, but I have a pair of 12" (IIRC!) Kenlowe dual stage fans fitted to an S13 Koyo rad to keep my RB25 cool, and they do a very good job. I've got the controller set quite low, and the fans cut in and out as required to keep the water temp below 95 degrees C, no problem at all. Fitting the electric fans was necessary because there isn't room between the rad and the longer RB engine for the viscous fan.
To the O.P: Wiring them up is pretty easy, depending on which fan/s and controller you buy. There's not much point in explaining how I wired mine up as I have a junction block under my bonnet from when I relocated the battery to the boot, and it will be rather different to wiring a fan to a standard set up.
What I can say is that whilst the Kenlowe set up isn't the cheapest, they are easy to wire up, come with everything you need if you buy the kit rather than just the fan unit on its own, and they work well.
HTH