Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 21

Thread: Serious Rattle/clonking from rear S13 chassis Bods required

  1. #1
    Guest FireStorm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2,887
    Rides
    0

    Serious Rattle/clonking from rear S13 chassis Bods required

    Car was driven to the MOT station after 2 years of being worked on.

    Car has the following relevant mods to the problem

    Rear adjustable LCA
    DW subframe bushes
    Nismo 2way diff (with a replacement crown and pinion that i got put in 2 years ago)
    DW total hicas eliminator
    rear camber arms
    rear traction arms

    Symptoms:

    When the accelerator pedal is pressed lightly to moderately i get a fast repetition of a clonking noise from the rear, at any speed, in any gear.

    If i accelerate hard it pretty much goes way.

    Its louder when turning to the right

    its very loud at low speed and feels like the rear subframe is shaking off when pulling away in first while attempting to turn

    It goes away when you remove take your foot off the accelerator at any speed.

    If you touching the accelerator pedal very very lightly you can just about keep your speed maintained on a flat straight without it making the noise, but try to gain speed and it will instantly start.

    when pulling onto my drive, one wheel raises slightly off the ground and then starts spinning by itsself (even though its a 2way?)

    The diff was previously leaking 2 years ago, but i replaced the seals, and it stopped and was fine IIRC

    i am getting the oil changed Monday, but im not sure this is an oil in diff job problem

    let me know what yal think

  2. #2
    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Yorkshire
    Posts
    12,175
    Rides
    0
    It sounds like the propshaft is on 180° out.

    Unbolt it at the joint, spin it round and bolt it back up.

  3. #3
    Guest FireStorm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2,887
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by R3k1355 View Post
    It sounds like the propshaft is on 180° out.

    Unbolt it at the joint, spin it round and bolt it back up.
    you mean the middle joint? ie not the bit at the gearbox & not the bit on the diff, but the joint in the middle?

    why would this make a difference?

    will get the garage to do this Monday.

  4. #4
    Guest MC_Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Barkway, Royston.
    Posts
    1,340
    Rides
    0
    Your more than welcome to borrow my VLSD to try for however long.

  5. #5
    Guest FireStorm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2,887
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by MC_Bob View Post
    Your more than welcome to borrow my VLSD to try for however long.
    ABS/Non ABS? does it make a difference also?

    not sure if its diff related but this would let me know if the problem is the diff.

    what you doing Tomorrow night? collecting my car from MOT place, could drive past yours on way home.

    thanks for the offer.

  6. #6
    Guest MC_Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Barkway, Royston.
    Posts
    1,340
    Rides
    0
    Its S13, but fits S14 swapping over your backplate. IIRC!

    Its got ABS thingy at the propshaft. 6 bolt halfshafts.

    Im moving in couple of weeks, so I wouldnt need it back in any hurry.

  7. #7
    Guest FireStorm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2,887
    Rides
    0
    dude i have an S13, so it should just fit right up?

    mind if i collect tomorrow? does it have play and or clunk? as if my diff has play and so does yours this wouldnt help

    do you mind if i collect tomorrow then?

  8. #8
    Guest MC_Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Barkway, Royston.
    Posts
    1,340
    Rides
    0
    No problem man, yeah collect when you like, I forgot you had an S13 and not S14a..
    If Im not here ill just leave it in my car unlocked or some shit.

    It had no play when I removed it only removed due to getting a welder.

    Ill drop my number to you.

  9. #9
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    bedford
    Posts
    235
    Rides
    0
    hi bud

    your running a 2 way diff these are like running a welded diff
    under hard cornering the diff will be quiet as its locked and driving both wheels hard
    slow cornering the inside wheel rotates at a slower rate than the outer wheel
    a two way diff will knock as it wants to turn both rear wheels at the same rate
    change the diff if you want it quiet

  10. #10
    Guest FireStorm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2,887
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by clivehot200sx View Post
    hi bud

    your running a 2 way diff these are like running a welded diff
    under hard cornering the diff will be quiet as its locked and driving both wheels hard
    slow cornering the inside wheel rotates at a slower rate than the outer wheel
    a two way diff will knock as it wants to turn both rear wheels at the same rate
    change the diff if you want it quiet
    Thanks for your info.

    i know what a 2way diff does.

    ive had it since the car was imported in 2008. the diff has never behaved like this before (if its the diff causing these symptoms)

    its a very quiet diff, pretty certain a nismo pro gt (known to be quiet 2ways)

    2way diffs do not clonk in a straight line under very light acceleration. neither does a welder.
    Last edited by FireStorm; 12-03-2012 at 06:47.

  11. #11
    Guest
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Helston, West Cornwall
    Posts
    24,465
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by R3k1355 View Post
    It sounds like the propshaft is on 180° out.

    Unbolt it at the joint, spin it round and bolt it back up.
    +1. Another vote for the middle mount on the prop shaft being upside down.

  12. #12
    Guest R3K1355's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Yorkshire
    Posts
    12,175
    Rides
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by FireStorm View Post
    you mean the middle joint? ie not the bit at the gearbox & not the bit on the diff, but the joint in the middle?

    why would this make a difference?
    Because if it's fitted 180° out then the prop will knock against the bottom of the car.

  13. #13
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    manchester
    Posts
    9,970
    Rides
    0
    the middle bracket isn't symmetrical, iirc it holds it at a lower height if you put it in the right way.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  14. #14
    Guest
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Helston, West Cornwall
    Posts
    24,465
    Rides
    0
    This thread has all the details and pictures.

    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...prop+shaft+pic

  15. #15
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    manchester
    Posts
    9,970
    Rides
    0
    funnily enough, I've never realised I was missing that bracket between the sides of the tunnel on my old S13 or this 180.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  16. #16
    Guest
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Helston, West Cornwall
    Posts
    24,465
    Rides
    0
    Every day's a school day, Alan

  17. #17
    Guest MC_Bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Barkway, Royston.
    Posts
    1,340
    Rides
    0
    Super thread derail.
    That other bracket rubs my exhaust, whats it there for? If the the UJ breaks?

  18. #18
    Guest FireStorm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2,887
    Rides
    0
    just to update this issue.

    the guy at the MOT station says my Drivers side drive shaft has play in it, and the knocking appears to be coming from the diff.

    When i changed my rear LCA the drive shaft popped out by accident when we were working in that area.

    When i turn sharply to the left at speed (ie putting pressure on the drivers side shaft) the noise appears to go away even at higher speeds.

    on the flip side the noise gets louder/more distinctive if i turn to the right.

    the noise appears to be much much more noticeable at 40mph odd plus infact im really not sure if its there below that as i dont recall hearing it from the MOT station up the a10 to the m25, its also much more prominent in 4th and 5th when i hit the m25.

    the diff oil has been changed, but the old oil was perfect.

    When i turn one wheel while its jacked up the other wheel doesnt turn until a few cm

    also again i got stuck on the drive while turning on it one wheel raises and then just starts spinning (very slow speed)

    MC_bob has lent me a diff (big thanks), but given the above now what do you guys think?
    Last edited by FireStorm; 12-03-2012 at 21:12.

  19. #19
    Guest FireStorm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    London
    Posts
    2,887
    Rides
    0
    Just to bump this.

    as it happens more at 40mph +

    is it possible my tracking (which hasnt been done yet - going on the 7th April) might be toeing out at the rear and at higher speeds its almost pulling the drive shafts out the diff? causing it to clonk?

  20. #20
    Guest mbmbmb23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC. USA
    Posts
    84
    Rides
    0
    Firestorm,

    What condition are your diff mount bushings in? Is there any play in the bolts holding the diff to the undercarriage? If I'm not mistaken the driveshaft spins clockwise so when you give it gas it torques left to right and can make a clunk noise by smacking the left side diff mount "ear" into the undercarriage. Full acceleration holds the left ear against the undercarriage, full deceleration lets it pull away, both of which wont cause much noise, but when you are on and off the gas repeatidly it will smack as it torques. Also, when the diff is allowed to rotate like that it will undoubtedly put a strain on your halfshafts and probably the bearing races inside the diff. I would pull the pumpkin and have a shop check the backlash of the pinion and the shimming of the unit inside....then upon reinstall ...

    I would try something like these: https://www.splparts.com/store/produ...hp?pid257.html

    Are you using an S14 pumpkin in your S13 by chance?


    -m

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •