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Thread: DC2 - Steering Doesn't feel 'right'

  1. #41
    living on the edge p.nicholas's Avatar
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    Steering wheel to rack sounds loosely joined

  2. #42
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    Hmmm, so possibly worn UJ on the column? Joy.

  3. #43
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    No Read my previous post damn it! Clamps holding UJ on the coloum inside the car have been known to come loose, 10mm bolts, go check!!

    Plus the rack adjustment.....oh don't worry, I'll just go over here and bang my head against this wall
    bstmeetbllk

  4. #44
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pablo13 View Post
    It will be a five min job, you just need an exceedingly large spanner to crack off the lock nut

    There will be enough adjustment in it to make a big difference if its never been touched. Also check the tightness the the UJ(s) on the column as these have been known to work loose on hondas, although when I checked mine they were fine.
    Re read your post captain cocky, it says the UJ's come loose, nout about clamps!

    Also, read my posts, I tried the rack adjustment but don't have the required tool. The 40mm ring spanner I borrowed wouldn't fit in the tiny space on the teg, from reading around it seems only a special Honda tool will fit. I am currently trying to source one.

    So yes, continue bashing your head into that wall as it might beat some sense into you

  5. #45
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Lol

    The UJ and clamps are one in the same. It consits of a UJ in the middle with a splined clamp at either end secured by bolts to either side of the column
    bstmeetbllk

  6. #46
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    I don't know these things, I'm just a desk monkey and a Honda noob

    I'll take a look Sat morning. Take it these are on the bit of the column inside the car?

    If those are loose, is it dangerous at all? I ask as I've got to drive to Chelmsford and back for the rest of this week and don't fancy losing my steering completely round a bend

  7. #47
    Engine Builder Mark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delboy View Post
    I don't know these things, I'm just a desk monkey and a Honda noob
    Maybe you would be better off taking it to a main dealer
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delboy View Post
    Re read your post captain cocky, it says the UJ's come loose, nout about clamps!

    Also, read my posts, I tried the rack adjustment but don't have the required tool. The 40mm ring spanner I borrowed wouldn't fit in the tiny space on the teg, from reading around it seems only a special Honda tool will fit. I am currently trying to source one.
    No you don't, you just need a socket and a pr of molegrips

    Quote Originally Posted by Delboy View Post

    If those are loose, is it dangerous at all? I ask as I've got to drive to Chelmsford and back for the rest of this week and don't fancy losing my steering completely round a bend
    Wouldn't matter, you can spin it at slow speed without knackered steering, either that or someone will just drive into you for the sheer fun of it

  9. #49
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    You're all cnuts.










  10. #50
    Guest Silane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    Maybe you would be better off taking it to a main dealer
    Lol!!

  11. #51
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    well, I'm now infected with 'honda doesn't feel right syndrome'. wife's civic coupe is tramlining/bump steering rather badly. only mod is 2001+ civic sport wheels, only real difference is that it went from a 185 to a 195 tyre though it didn't start straight away.

    no audible knocks or anything. done the rack adjustment today, no difference, going to have to go outside tomorrow and check the column stuff.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  12. #52
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear that Alan, hope you solve it soon.

    Had a good poke around mine today with help from the usual Dal Saturday crew. The UJ and associated gubbins was all fine and tight, it quickly became apparent the knock I hear when moving the wheel is coming from the rack.

    Had a go at doing the adjustment but couldn't get a tool that was big enough into the gap to undo the lock nut.

    Will have to try and get the relevant Honda tool or just book it in somewhere to get it done I guess. What did you use on yours out of interest?

    Had another good look over everything else and it's all tight still so it literally has to be the rack or the inner track rods now, and they were replaced same time as the outers so I hope the rack adjustment will sort it.

    Must also say thanks to Pabs as the crazy fool washed my car in freezing conditions today, as well as removing some scuffs and scratches he's actually the first person who has ever cleaned a car for me, always do it myself, so found it a bit weird!

  13. #53
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    Gutter you couldn't get it sorted today, fair play to pabs

  14. #54
    Trader: Plus Four Engineering Plus4E's Avatar
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    Do you have the figures from before the alignment. I know it's "as it should be", but maybe you preferred the feel of a slightly different set up.

    Personally, I like a little extra toe out. It's a bit more twitchy, and accentuates any bump steer, but also turns in better.
    Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.

    Quote Originally Posted by TomK View Post
    The lower front bar was also showing the typical signs of any metal attached to an s13

  15. #55
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    I just used a large adjustable. there's enough room on the civic to do it (just). there is an official honda tool if you look at some of the US forums, basically a long 40mm 12 point ring spanner with a narrow neck.

    it looks as though someone had done mine before - there was the start of a rounded edge on the nut. inner rods is a good call.
    Last edited by alanjuggler; 05-02-2012 at 07:22.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  16. #56
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    well, bollocks, figured it out - inner rod boot appears to have been replaced in the past for one that wasn't long enough so on max steering lock, was being stretched and has .. torn. given I can see the inner ball joint quite clearly, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that's the problem
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  17. #57
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jesus-Ninja View Post
    Do you have the figures from before the alignment. I know it's "as it should be", but maybe you preferred the feel of a slightly different set up.

    Personally, I like a little extra toe out. It's a bit more twitchy, and accentuates any bump steer, but also turns in better.
    It's been set up as before mate, it's all stock so only have toe adjustment and its always been parallel at the front +5 at the rear. Some subtle differences in camber and castor due to replacing saggy old bushes but not much at all.

    If the rack alignment doesn't sort it and the inner track rods are good I will shim the lower arms to add some castor I think.

    Alan, glad you've found the issue (hopefully). My inner rods are new but then they are also from the same joker that supplied the upper balljoints that failed so it's not impossible for them to be knackered.

    Sadly the rack adjustment is really close to the subframe on mine, even with loosening off the rack mounts we couldn't get the adjustable in there. I've seen the Honda tool on those threads but can't find it available anywhere online. I'll have to call Honda and see what they want for one... I'll take the lube with me.

  18. #58
    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    course, you could buy a cheap 40mm socket, cut a slice of it off and weld it to a bar.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

  19. #59
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    Aha, good idea!

  20. #60
    Guest Delboy's Avatar
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    Tried adjusting the rack today and managed it at last!

    I just used a hammer and a screw driver to slacken the lock nut in the end. Didn't do much damage in the process which was nice! Tightened the adjustment nut and then backed it off a touch as per the manual and retightened the lock nut.

    It's made a little difference to the steering but clearly hasn't cured the problem.

    I decided to get Baz (who owns an MB6) to drive it and I drove his to compare and I can say 100% that I'm not imagining it all! Baz noticed it straight away and when I drove his it reminded me immediately of how mine should feel.

    The issue is clearly self centring related. Baz's MB6 tugs nicely at the wheel as it tries to self centre, giving a decent weight and resistance to the steering. Mine just doesn't do that at all, resulting in a light wheel with near zero feel.

    I think I'm going to call it a day and hand the car over to a specialist to look over as I now just want it sorted out and I'm out of ideas and have lost enthusiasm for crawling under the car every weekend!

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