Steering wheel to rack sounds loosely joined
Steering wheel to rack sounds loosely joined
Hmmm, so possibly worn UJ on the column? Joy.
Re read your post captain cocky, it says the UJ's come loose, nout about clamps!
Also, read my posts, I tried the rack adjustment but don't have the required tool. The 40mm ring spanner I borrowed wouldn't fit in the tiny space on the teg, from reading around it seems only a special Honda tool will fit. I am currently trying to source one.
So yes, continue bashing your head into that wall as it might beat some sense into you
I don't know these things, I'm just a desk monkey and a Honda noob
I'll take a look Sat morning. Take it these are on the bit of the column inside the car?
If those are loose, is it dangerous at all? I ask as I've got to drive to Chelmsford and back for the rest of this week and don't fancy losing my steering completely round a bend
You're all cnuts.
well, I'm now infected with 'honda doesn't feel right syndrome'. wife's civic coupe is tramlining/bump steering rather badly. only mod is 2001+ civic sport wheels, only real difference is that it went from a 185 to a 195 tyre though it didn't start straight away.
no audible knocks or anything. done the rack adjustment today, no difference, going to have to go outside tomorrow and check the column stuff.
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
Sorry to hear that Alan, hope you solve it soon.
Had a good poke around mine today with help from the usual Dal Saturday crew. The UJ and associated gubbins was all fine and tight, it quickly became apparent the knock I hear when moving the wheel is coming from the rack.
Had a go at doing the adjustment but couldn't get a tool that was big enough into the gap to undo the lock nut.
Will have to try and get the relevant Honda tool or just book it in somewhere to get it done I guess. What did you use on yours out of interest?
Had another good look over everything else and it's all tight still so it literally has to be the rack or the inner track rods now, and they were replaced same time as the outers so I hope the rack adjustment will sort it.
Must also say thanks to Pabs as the crazy fool washed my car in freezing conditions today, as well as removing some scuffs and scratches he's actually the first person who has ever cleaned a car for me, always do it myself, so found it a bit weird!
Gutter you couldn't get it sorted today, fair play to pabs
Do you have the figures from before the alignment. I know it's "as it should be", but maybe you preferred the feel of a slightly different set up.
Personally, I like a little extra toe out. It's a bit more twitchy, and accentuates any bump steer, but also turns in better.
I just used a large adjustable. there's enough room on the civic to do it (just). there is an official honda tool if you look at some of the US forums, basically a long 40mm 12 point ring spanner with a narrow neck.
it looks as though someone had done mine before - there was the start of a rounded edge on the nut. inner rods is a good call.
Last edited by alanjuggler; 05-02-2012 at 07:22.
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
well, bollocks, figured it out - inner rod boot appears to have been replaced in the past for one that wasn't long enough so on max steering lock, was being stretched and has .. torn. given I can see the inner ball joint quite clearly, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that's the problem
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
It's been set up as before mate, it's all stock so only have toe adjustment and its always been parallel at the front +5 at the rear. Some subtle differences in camber and castor due to replacing saggy old bushes but not much at all.
If the rack alignment doesn't sort it and the inner track rods are good I will shim the lower arms to add some castor I think.
Alan, glad you've found the issue (hopefully). My inner rods are new but then they are also from the same joker that supplied the upper balljoints that failed so it's not impossible for them to be knackered.
Sadly the rack adjustment is really close to the subframe on mine, even with loosening off the rack mounts we couldn't get the adjustable in there. I've seen the Honda tool on those threads but can't find it available anywhere online. I'll have to call Honda and see what they want for one... I'll take the lube with me.
course, you could buy a cheap 40mm socket, cut a slice of it off and weld it to a bar.
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
Aha, good idea!
Tried adjusting the rack today and managed it at last!
I just used a hammer and a screw driver to slacken the lock nut in the end. Didn't do much damage in the process which was nice! Tightened the adjustment nut and then backed it off a touch as per the manual and retightened the lock nut.
It's made a little difference to the steering but clearly hasn't cured the problem.
I decided to get Baz (who owns an MB6) to drive it and I drove his to compare and I can say 100% that I'm not imagining it all! Baz noticed it straight away and when I drove his it reminded me immediately of how mine should feel.
The issue is clearly self centring related. Baz's MB6 tugs nicely at the wheel as it tries to self centre, giving a decent weight and resistance to the steering. Mine just doesn't do that at all, resulting in a light wheel with near zero feel.
I think I'm going to call it a day and hand the car over to a specialist to look over as I now just want it sorted out and I'm out of ideas and have lost enthusiasm for crawling under the car every weekend!