I'll just treat myself to braided lines and sxoc membership for Christmas. Cheers guys, I helped me enough times to warrant a membership.
I'll just treat myself to braided lines and sxoc membership for Christmas. Cheers guys, I helped me enough times to warrant a membership.
Glad it's gonna be a nice easy fix mate
Does look like it's coming from the turbo lines, strange as it looks like it's already got braided lines as well.
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
I'll definitely get a look at it tomorrow. I've only owned the car since October, so I'm not 100% on what has been upgraded and what hasn't.
They could have rattled loose, might just need nipping up, or they've been off before and the last owners re-used a copper washer that was abit fubar.
Edit: just noticed that it seems you already have braided turbo lines!
Ok, I had a problem with my previous S15 which might be similar to yours... had braided turbo lines on them for months, no problems there but after a number of jobs taking the turbo off/back on the car numerous times I guess it was upsetting something and one of the banjo bolts against the block for the coolant kept leaking grrr!!
I tried new copper washers and re-tightened as much as I dared without snapping the bolt (be careful!) but to no avail... still kept leaking
The only way I fixed this was to use PTFE tape sandwiched in between the copper washers and the bolt/block so you have a belt and braces approach. It actually worked for me and never leaked again
I will be using this method as a matter of course for my current S14a project. Hopefully your issue will just be a re-tighten job or new copper washers but if both of these suggestions don't work, try the tape!
Last edited by James_S15; 10-12-2011 at 10:53.
Can I get at the lines without having to remove the manifold or turbo?
Well the way I used to do it...after going through 3 sets of turbo lines (don't ask!) especially if I only want to check connections as you already have braided lines...is to undo the down pipe, undo the manifold, take the intake off the turbo etc and then you could literally move the turbo, manifold etc to one side to give u access to the lines.
Not sure if that all makes sense, but even of u have to take the turbo off it's Jong a particularly hard job. If I can do it. Anyone can!
Remember to WD40 the mani nuts as well as the downpipe stud/nuts up to 24 hours before you start the job... if those parts have not been removed for a long while it could be a bugger 'cracking' them!
WD40??? Get this stuff instead. Its incredible
http://www.performancemotorcare.com/...040_500ml.html