Moving back to the VVT, can it be stuck open/closed and effect timing?
Moving back to the VVT, can it be stuck open/closed and effect timing?
No. If it doesnt work due to failiure or clogging, it wont activate the timing advance of the cam. As said, if it doesnt work, it will just feel flat.Originally Posted by Topper
Had a similar thing on my BM. It always felt flat until I revved it out, but I put that down to me coming from Turbo Nissans... Turns out that the Cam sensor which operates the VANOS (BMs VVT) was duff. I didnt have VANOS. Now goes much better!
I thought Matt_S invented SXOC
To save confusion thought it best to just cut the schematics from the manuals lol
yes, if you look at the pic on the left, when in neutral, the switch is made, making an earth.. so unless the auto box ecu defaults and earths elsewhere somehow, our cars would think its always in ger, mreaning vvt should always be working? but its not..
Auto box default is Neutral and this replicates the Neutral switch.
So if you had an auto and have now converted to Manual you need to identify the associated wiring (pic on right) and remove it or you will never get the NVCS working.
ahhh just what i needed to hear. now, the bit i am stuck with,
do i connect thwe gearbox switch to pin 44.. or do i connect it to something on the auto box ecu?
cheers mate and sorry for a massive thread hijack!!
I don't think this is a Hijack to be fair as all of you are converted from auto to manual
1- Identify wiring from Auto controller and disconnect from Pin 44.
2 - Connect cable from pin 44 to the Neutral position switch
3 - Ground Neutral position switch
NOTE: On an Auto i think there is a Neutral light in the dash that is between pin 44 and the switch.
So you would be better off just running a new cable from pin 44 to the switch to eliminate all the faf
Gonna have a go at this over the weekend.
I've got a PFC, so just checking I should be doing the same as described above?
taking out the engine electronics fuse, 4th down right hand side in drivers footwell VVT will be disabled and the noise gone if its that
Yeh I was going to cut and splice into pin 44 and run to through the switch. Thing is, on mine both wires from the switch are brown..! Helpful! Don't suppose it matters that much though? The switch is either made or broken..
Be careful here guys as the S14 and S14-A are slightly different
S14 :
VTC solenoid pin on ECU is - 113
Attachment 77700
Neutral position switch is - 44
Attachment 77699
S14-A:
VTC solenoid pin on ECU is - 114
Attachment 77702
Neutral position switch is - 35
Attachment 77701
Well, it's now wired up. Noticable improvement in torque. Jerking has got much less but is still there.. But almost goes when I unplug the lambda!? Might give it a clean some how.
Lambda being knackered is a possibility for the symptoms you have stated.
disconnecting the Lambda will not cause any lasting or long term issues, should you wish to do this for testing purposes.
Also to do are:
Clean AFM hot wire with brake cleaner
Clean IAC valve with brake cleaner
That should eliminate all the possible causes of stuttering or jerking.
Cleaned the afm wires, they were all good. Whats this other valve? May as well give them a go! What's the best way to clean a lambda?
Ta!
If the Lambda is faulty then it's a bin item, you wont clean it im afraid
The IAC valve is located to the right hand side of the inlet plenum (3 x 10mm bolts hold it on) Just unplug the connectors and remove the bolts and it comes off just fine, be careful not to damage the paper gasket though.
Just blast it out with brake cleaner or similar, it's going to be stinking dirty so not a bad idea to fill it full of cleaner and leave it soak for a little while.
I give mine a quick squirt with gt86 then before assembly.
EDIT: another thing to check is your fuel filterif you are on higher miles then change it out and upgrade to a 300zx unit http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/cat...oducts_id=1358
Last edited by VIDAL BABBOON; 20-05-2012 at 18:21.
funnily enough i changed the (very old!!) fuel filter yesterday and the flexible pipes for braided ones. made it miles mor epowerful at high revs!
anyway i have cleaned the AFM and gave the IAC valve a going over with some carb cleaner, most of which ended up in my eye... so painful!! now engine is much smoother but is still hesitates and holds back a bit under load up to about 3/4k...
if i went to a garage and stuck the emmissions tester in, would i be able to tell if the lambda is faulty from that? cheers mate
Lambda will show up on no load test
You might want to find someone local with access to Nissan consult as this will read any codes that are showing up.
Alternatively you can unplug it to test that way.
might nip in somehwere tomorrow then..
hmmm i dont know anyone with a consult thingy.. is that by using the light flashing of something?
Nah consult plugs into the diagnostic port and speaks to the ECU.
is there not a way of getting a light to flash to give the codes out? might be thinking of something else.. bet a garage will charge a fortune for that wont they.. also heard that manual conversion consults dont work??
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