been offered a s14 with vvt pulley problem he say's he has been told best to replace the engine as its cheaper?
I dont know much about the s14's but im guessing you have to remove the chain to replace the pulley?anyone know how much to replace?also why do they fail?
He say's it run's poor due to the timing being all to pot now the pulley is worn is it safe to drive a short distance?
engine sounds like its more screwed than its being put on so steer clear
If it was just VVT then there would be no reason to replace the engine
Chain does not have to be removedjust tension taken off and held out of the way during the swap.
Timing will not be affected by the VVT, and anything the VVT system does will not be enough to cause issues with the engine not running correctly.
Simple and quick way to test it would be to remove the plug from the solenoid and if it still runs like a bag of old spanners it's not the VVT
If he's gone to Nissan for a quote a new Ferrari would probably be a fair bit cheaper!
Yup the sprockets are ridiculous money from Nissan UK.Originally Posted by frisbee
New one from AUS is around £350 this is not a permanent fix though as it's a poorly designed part that will fail again over time.
nice one mate,he said the timing is advance or retared due to the vvt not the engine timing sorry,can it be drove unplugged?If it was just VVT then there would be no reason to replace the engine
Chain does not have to be removed
Timing will not be affected by the VVT, and anything the VVT system does will not be enough to cause issues with the engine not running correctly.
Simple and quick way to test it would be to remove the plug from the solenoid and if it still runs like a bag of old spanners it's not the VVT
Yup the timing is altered on the inlet cam with the VVT
It can be driven with no ill effects with the solenoid unplugged and the negative effect will be lack of low down/mid range torque.
Once over 5.5k it's in the off position anyway.
Last edited by VIDAL BABBOON; 16-06-2011 at 22:07.
Bringing up and old thread as have a question on the VVT and inlet cam.
Is it possible that the VVT is holding the inlet cam open/closed at all times, i.e. rather than rattling it is stuck in one position? Would this effect the overall timing?
If it was unplugged.... Would it be a little hesitant and jerky at mid range ect revs? Only asking as mine is jerking after auto swap and I haven't don't the neutral position switch yet..
How badly is it jerking mate?
Unplugging the Solenoid (disabling the NVCS system) will not make the car run any differently BUT you will loose low down/mid range Torque.
Hmmm, I think by not connecting the neutral position switch, te solenoid is effectively unplugged? It's more of a hesitation than a jerk really feels like it is bogging/holding back, it shoots off after 4thou though..
hmmm sounds like mine, but haven't driven any other SX's to compare it with. Defintely sounds like my car and mine used to be an auto too....
I might take the fuse out for the VVT and drive it to see how it compares...
Where is said fuse? Il haves go on my drive home. That's 3 of us with a similar problem all who have converted autos... May be on to something! Might see if i can wore it up at the weekend.
Make it 4!
I've been messing about trying to sort it for ages. My engines 100% perfect but I can't get rid of the Vvt noise.
Unplugging the solenoid on mine makes no difference what so ever. be interested to find out where it is so I can have a go a that as well. I've checked all the fuses I can see to see if one has popped but the all seem ok.
I have had my face buried in wiring diagram for a few days last week and worked out the pins that need to be wired to the switch and I earth. BUT From looking at the diagrams, our cars will think they are perminently in gear, meaning the vvt should always be working, meaning the only problems we should have are at idle and mate high rpm. I connected the solenoid to earth so I know 100% it was activated and the idle went shit..
I've been told it's the "Engine Electronics" one or something in the drivers footwell.
That's the auto controller, that's fine and stays plugged in. It's either pin 44 or 35 depending whic ECU you have on the ECU in the passengers footwell. Needs to be earthed through the switch on your gearbox I think.
VTC Solenoid is earthed via pin 113 on the 14 ECU
44 is the Neutral position switch but also grounds via the AT ECU.
Yehh so pin 44 needs to be earthed through the new manual neutral position switch. Is that right?
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