Ok, so heres the spec -
S14a, blacktop sr20det. Manual converted plus manual ecu with Horsham stage 1a map. Horsham manifold, full mani-back exhaust, Walbro pump, Blitz SBCiD, Forge actuator, Synapse recirc valve, FMIC, Blitz filter, EGR and carbon can removed. Turbo is standard.
Heres whats happened -
After manual conversion, stuck the boost controller on standard car at 0.7 bar with a bit of gain. All seemed ok - just leaky on the standard pipework. Then put everything you see above on the car. This included all new gaskets from head to back-box. Tried to run to 1.1 - 1.2 bar, but wouldn't go past 0.9. Felt mega fast and came on boost really quick, but even with the boost controller cranked up to full, still 0.9 bar. You could see on the boost controller screen that it wasn't even opening the solenoid at this point.
From previous experience, got the boost leak testing kit out. First was a pinhole in a weld on the coldpipe - sealed that. But the major leak was the whole EGR system. Binned the whole thing and made up a blanking plate to fit - did away with the carbon can whilst I was at it. Re-tested it up to 1.5 bar and all seemed tight - could only hear the pressure creeping round the valves and out the filler cap - took over 30 seconds to drop to 0.4 bar.
Took the car out - feels faster, and spools up even quicker - but despite sorting all the leaks it still won't boost over 1 bar. I even unplugged the actuator altogether - and it runs exactly the same.
My thoughts -
I didn't include the compressor and intake pipe in the boost leak test because I wanted to ensure the seat of my recirc valve wasn't leaking. Obviously if the intake is also pressurised then you wouldn't know if it was leaking or not. Therefore I don't know for sure that the compressor isn't cracked.
I need to double check the compressor elbow gasket - as its the only boosted gasket not included in the test.
When I first fitted the actuator, it didn't quite hold the wastegate shut. I put two washers on each bolt and that had it shut tight - but I should double check this is still the case.
I've read cracking of the turbine housing round the wastegate is common on sr20 turbos - is this true? After I've checked the above, turbos gonna have to come off again
Apologies for the mega post - any help is much appreciated!
Thanks in advance
Reply With Quote
if you read the first post you will see the car has been fully boost tested - its tight as sh*t - perhaps you are suggesting the turbo compressor itself is cracked and leaking boost?
I also reckon you'd get the turbo-manifold nuts done up tighter on a bench rather than with it in the car 
Originally Posted by snippyt
Also blocking up the outlet and blowing in the inlet it held no pressure at all. That was the last time I paid someone else to do a job on a car, there was only one bracket (out of three) holding the housing on 
Killed my 25k T28 
As soon as the turbo was off I saw the problem.
