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Thread: Battery cut off switch

  1. #1
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    Battery cut off switch

    hi guys i been searching and reading alot about this. i think the easiest way to do it is to just cut the ignition signal into the ecu off as that means that the car ain't turned on and it turns everything off.

    there is 2 things i need to know:

    the cut off switch do i just take the 2 cables to and splice into the cable going into the ecu for the ignition switch?

    and i ain't having any luck finding a diagram for what pin the cable connects to.

    i am pretty a noob when it comes to electrics so if any one has a better way of doing it and wouldn't mind explaining it to me in dumb ass terms i would appreciate it.

    the cut off switch i have is a FIA one with the 4 pins at the bottom.


    BTW its a 1991 s13
    Last edited by sergcab; 09-06-2011 at 12:45.

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    Battery Cut Off Switch


    6 pole F.I.A master battery cut off switch isolates engine and protects alternator circuit against heavy voltage surge and prevents engine 'run-on'. Controls circuits up to 500 amps initial load with 100 amps continuous load 12 - 24v.

    A properly fitted battery cut off switch makes a very good safety and security accessory. There are two ways in which it can be done, the first being the most simple and the second slightly more complicated and by far the better of the two.

    The first is just to fit a basic isolator switch in the main +VE cable between the battery and the starter-motor common terminal (one of the leads will probably need extending so make sure you use the correctly rated cable, especially if you are extending the run). Mount the switch so it can be reached by the driver and remove the key whenever you park-up but DO NOT switch off the switch when the engine is running or you will damage the alternator.

    The second way is to use a competition switch (pictured above) which incorporates two pairs of terminals as well as the main battery lead terminals. One of these pairs of contacts opens when you turn off the switch and kills the engine by either interrupting the ignition supply (petrol) or closing the fuel solenoid (diesel). The second pair of contacts closes when the switch is turned off and this diverts the power from the alternator (which is still producing power until it stops turning) and diverts this power through a ballast resistor to earth thereby protecting the alternator.

    If you have accessories which require a permanent feed (radio, alarm etc) you can run an aux fuse box direct from the battery to power these items.

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    i get that mate but would i be able to connect it to the ecu ignition cable and leave it as it is, or does it also have to run to the coil? or can i connect them all at the ecu like ignition cable that goes to the ecu and the coil cable that connect there aswell? i just really dont know what pins are what. this can confuse the shit out of me lol

    really sorry if im not making no sense what so ever

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    A cut off switch is used to cut every high powered circuit, it is not an immobilizer.

    Cutting the ECU "ignition cable" is not going to protect anything, you could use any low amp switch for this, as it only commands a relay.

    You could do what you said. But it is not in anyway FIA approved, and is a bit overkill for that kind of switch if you ask me. These are made to get 500A through them. I dont think the ignition relay / solenoid uses more than 0.5A

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    so any ideas on where to plug all the wires shoguns drawing is the one i got through with the switch but i don't really know where to plug them like ignition coil do i have to take the wires to the engine bay and connect it to all the coils? and the ignition switch is basically the one on the steering column that trips the car to turn on when you turn the key?

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    what's the reason for safety or security?

    if its security, just make up a little hidden fuel pump kill switch...

    CUT the fuel pump power cables from the ecu, extend the cable, mount a basic 12v rated[?], (easily available from maplins or something similer), switch somewhere hidden, connect the fuel pump wires throught the switch and *BANG TIDY* you have a fuel pump kill switch.... basically a primitive immobiliser.

    The car will turn over, but you will hear them burning your starter up as no fuel is injected into the cylinders....

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    its for both really dude. i like that idea of the fuel pump thou . i bought the kill switch and i might aswell use it to what its designed for.

    also can anyone share a link for the ecu pin layout like what wire does what :S

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    Pick one of 3.

    The light blue / red wire from ignition relay is the power for the coils - fairly high current. Goes though connector E8-F8 near air box on RHD (expansion tank LHD). Could also get to this wire at the ignition sub loom connector under coil trim - it comes out on coil side as a black / yellow wire.

    The black / white wire from ECCS relay will cut power to ignition relay coil, some part of ECU (could just be ignition power good signal), CAS and Air flow meter. A bit more current than ignition alone but switching off the CAS will switch off the injectors and fuel pump too as ECU only runs them if CAS is producing output. This will prevent fuel injection as engine runs down and subsequent flooding. It's important you get to it at the relay as its split and spliced all over the loom.

    The ECCS relay coil (very low current) is the Red / Black wire. This wire goes back to pin 45 on ECU though connector E10 - F10 (RHD) E9 - F9 (LHD). It will cut all the above but only carries the relay coil current.

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    lol whats an ECCS by the way?

    the middle option sounds like the best one just i dont know where ECCS relay is.

    and if you look at shoguns drawing on number 2 can i connect both of them together and just run 1 wire to the ECCS relay?

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    anyone know what an ECCS is and where i could find it?

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    That's harsh.

    Try this, I've filled the search box out for you.
    http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=nissan+eccs

    Electronic concentrated control system.

    Engine bay Relays in fuse box near battery, from the front.
    Auto inhibitor blue (empty space on Manual), headlamp retract grey. Fuel pump green, ECCS green, Ignition green.

  13. #13
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    i did try the search bar on here but i didn't find out where it was. thanks skyshack

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