no you dont need to drill and tap, you said you already have a nipple in a cooler pipe so thats were the boost will be taken for your gizzmoOriginally Posted by brad88
no you dont need to drill and tap, you said you already have a nipple in a cooler pipe so thats were the boost will be taken for your gizzmo
thats spot on mate, i think i have all the info i neec now then, no drilling tappin,welding,cutting etc required, just fit t28,rotate housing,put apex adaptor on,file hole,connect pipes and done....
that it? :P
cheers, brad
thats sounds like the lot!!
not in that order, you cant rotate the turbo when attached to the manifoldthats spot on mate, i think i have all the info i neec now then, no drilling tappin,welding,cutting etc required, just fit t28,rotate housing,put apex adaptor on,file hole,connect pipes and done....
that it? :P
cheers, brad
dont forget to drain coolant before, too.
and get a 14mm spanner with very thin branches, or get ready to grind one. You will need that to get the 2 lower back nuts on the manifold. Dont forget to fit these first when reinstalling, or you will end up uninstalling it again ...
job to do in the correct order
drain water
separate water and oil hose from engine
separate elbow from downpipe -> may require a grinder
remove manifold -> takes a lot of time. Nuts may come with studs. no big deal.
take pictures of turbo, elbow, manifold in every angle
remove elbow
remove oil drain from turbo
separate turbo from mani
take a break, clean holes, apply grease on studs, bolts, nuts and all
now loosen core bolts on the new turbo and rotate the core and intake housing so they are in the same position as in the pictures you have taken. It is important to get the core angled the same way, so the lines will have the correct angle.use a rubber mallet if the core is stuck...
tighten the bolts
put some engine oil in the oil feed hole in the turbo and turn the turbines by hand. Then put some more and do it again.
install new braided water and oil hoses on the turbo (forget about the oem ones, you will have trouble installing them again)
install intake adapter
install oil drain
install put rubber connector from oil drain to sump fully on the oil drain
try to install elbow, check what hole needs to be filed, file it, install elbow
connect turbo to manifold and check pictures again
[if you have an aftermarket elbow, check it is correctly angled and sized, most arent ...]
put manifold back on: install the 2 lower back nuts first ...the others are not a problem
connect downpipe to elbow
connect braided hoses to engine
DONT connect oil drain yet
connect elephant trunk
refill coolant, check for water leaks
DONT START
you need to get oil circulating in the turbo first. This might be overkill, but it might also save your turbo...
remove fuel pump fuse
disconnect ignitor amp
use starter motor until pressure light comes off (make pauses, dont burn it)
then use it some more until oil drops off from the turbo oil drain (remember how i say to put the rubber connector fully on the oil drain and NOT connecting it yet to the sump ?)
Now there is oil to your turbo, and hopefully no other leak. Connect oil drain to sump. Install back fuel pump fuse, connect ignitor amp.
start the car ...
purge coolant, check for leaks and odd noises.
You are done ! Take a break, clean the place, go take a shower, a beer, sleep. You will drive the next day
I might have forgotten things so feel free to correct it people.
I really want to see all of that happen in 4 hours for the first time. i know i am slow but it took me so long with all kind of problems ...
seams about right to me. if you a are prepared with the right tools and parts that you need its a half a day job to change the turbo 1st time (its faster once you have done it once lol). If you need to go out and buy parts/tools it can take a few days to do
that was super super helpful mate, cant thank you enough,
i definately think i could do it in 1 day, but just want to get EVERYTHING needed beforehand so im not stuck halfway through with no parts and a car with no turbo!!
cheers again, brad
just 1 more final quick thing if i may too,
if i'm planning on running 1 bar.....will i be much better off with the t25 actuator or will the t28 one be ok?
cheers, brad
t28 will be fine as you have a good boost controller
cheers mate, bet your sick of posting in this thread!! haha, thanks for all the help,
brad
lol nah, i was the exact same over 2 years ago.
i still find the search button imposible to use so its always easier to stick up a new thread.
ha, cheers mate, glad im not the only person who cant use the search button! lol
can i use normal ca18det braided lines for the t28? (all 3 of them, 2xwater and 1xoil)
cheers, brad.
i stopped mine and put everything back as the last stud on the manifold underneath was rounding off! need help with that last one,good luck bud
I also need to know this.ha, cheers mate, glad im not the only person who cant use the search button! lol
can i use normal ca18det braided lines for the t28? (all 3 of them, 2xwater and 1xoil)
cheers, brad.
yep you can use them all.
Okaii, another noob about to fit a T28, where can I get the braided lines from ?
Ebay, Hose solutions, Apex. etc...
Again, being a complete noob
Can someone link me please, as I dont even have a clue which ones Im going to need
I got to that page myself, which ones do I need though ?
Two coolant lines and an oil feed.
Not sure why the top coolant set are so much more expensive than the singles but sure if you ring they'll explain.
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