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Thread: t28 fitting ca s13

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    t28 fitting ca s13

    hi folks...
    before we start, i know just how many times this type of thread has been started but when im reading through other posts i see things like...

    rotate compressor housing, how,what eh?

    actuator needs modifying, iin what way and for what?

    boost take off, i have a fmic and boost pipes ready to fit, one of the boost pipes has a nipple on it near to the turbo, is there i will read boost from?

    inlet adapter for CA inlet hose??? where to do that?

    does a normal elbow fit onto t28 (filing out 1 hole,) and do s13 braided lines all fit ok?

    also, i have a gizzmo elec boost controller that is plumbed into my t25 at the mo, where and how will i plumb this into the t28?

    thanks very much, any help will as always be greatly appreciated,
    pics would be uber useful too if possible,
    cheers, brad.

    p.s, is this a job best left to pro's? i know what im doing with a spanner but is it a week long job or weekend long job?

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    you will need to rotate the core so the oil drain points vertically down, this is done by slackening the bolts on one housing, then hit the other with a mallet so you see the core moving around to the position needed, then tighten this bolts and undo the other housing and rotate the opposite way so it sit back in its orignal place.

    if your using the t28 actuato just bolt it on no modifying needed.

    the intake adaptor can be bought from apex on here. £32 iirc

    you want to be reading your boost from the nipple in the plenum, the nipple thats on the cooler piping is what will be used for you boost controller, get your instructions out for your gizzmo and it will tell you which port you need to put to the nipple and the other port will go to the actuator.

    yep the normal elbow fits just fine and like you said you need to file 1 hole out by about 3mm, you will figure out which one when you try to line it up.



    also im by no means a pro, im just like your self and know what to do with a spanner, and it took me a total of 4 hours to do the t25 to t28 conversion
    Last edited by NickS13; 18-04-2011 at 20:11.

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    Guest NickS13's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snaps View Post
    that guide is good for basic info, but i found that it doesnt answer any of the questions he has really asked.

    it also only talks about modifying the t25 actuator. WHY??? when its soo much easier just to bolt on the t28 one and your done!!

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    iow200sx you are a star! you couldnt have put that any better, it sounds so simple now when said like that....

    1 more thing, where will i read boost from with my in dash boost guage?
    is that not from the turbo? at the mo, both the gizzmo and the guage work perfectly together,
    also,
    i dont have a manual for the gizzmo, will it be self explantory when im doing it what goes where?

    thanks again mate, its very much apprciated,
    brad

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    are these like the adaptors i need?
    can i use one off s14 and is it 2 bolt or 3 bolt type?

    2 bolt
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TURBO-Compress...item25533c7ac7

    3 bolt
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TURBO-Compress...item588cce4a6a

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    Guest NickS13's Avatar
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    when you take the gizzmo pipe of the turbo and actuator just remember which is which, the one that was on the t25 will now go to the cooler nipple and the actuator will go back to the actuator. you shouldnt need to move or mess with the boost gauge pipe i dont think.

    if that doesnt work then you want to put your boost gauge pipe onto the nipple on the intake manifold, it can be found to the right of the throttle cable wheel.

    you will only need a 2 bolt flange as you will re use the old t25 3 bolts one.

    you can get it cheaper from apex, and with the one you posted you would have to block tha little hole.

    here you go this one.

    http://www.apexperformance.co.uk/cat...6612ec42f9ab16

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    You will have to modify the oil drain pipe too. the t25 one will NOT fit, the 2 holes need to be filed a little, and the tube will be too long. You can cut it before the bend and get a fluorolined L shaped silicon hose to replace it. I was looking for one when i converted, i think i needed a 16mm ID one. They have 10 to 15cm length.

    I ended up using an L shaped bit from the oil fume hose that i cut when installing an oil catch tank (i removed the one between rocker cover and elephant trunk), and it still has not failed. I thought it would cook quite fast, become brittle and leak but it did not happen.

    If you use the stock manifold (and you should ), you will need to rotate the intake flange too, if not it will hit the manifold and you wont be able to install it.

    Also, get genuine gaskets ... you dont want to do it twice, it is a pain.

    The T25 has a boost nipple to connect your boost controler. The T28 does not, so you need to make one. Either in the intake flange, or get a "quicktap" (althoufh i would not recommend using it, it seems to work and is the easy way)

    You will also need a new hotpipe, the CA18 one will not fit. I installed an SR20 one i had lying around, it worked nicely.

    Someone posted he installed one in 4h. I want to see that happenning. I know i am a slow mechanic, but it took quite a lot of time, and i counted days (lots of issues, like stuck core that would not rotate, hoses, that were not good, forgot to install lower bolts on the manifold first and so on).

    Maybe with practice, a tubular mani, and the conversion already done, it could take 4h to bolt everything back. But for a first time AND a conversion, better talk in days of labor

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    Thanks very much mate, you couldn't have helped more, much appreciated, brad.

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    Quote Originally Posted by croustibat View Post
    You will have to modify the oil drain pipe too. the t25 one will NOT fit, the 2 holes need to be filed a little, and the tube will be too long
    The T28 oil drain is the same as the T25 mate - it's only GT series turbos that are slightly different from memory.

    The return should also be the right length - if it's too long then it may be that the core hasn't rotated far enough for it to point straight downwards.

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    Member alanjuggler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by iow200sx View Post
    that guide is good for basic info, but i found that it doesnt answer any of the questions he has really asked.

    it also only talks about modifying the t25 actuator. WHY??? when its soo much easier just to bolt on the t28 one and your done!!
    because the T28 actuator is usually weak as piss. 6-7 psi from memory - yes you can fix the peak boost figure with a boost controller, but a stronger base actuator setting will stop the exhaust gas over coming the spring pressure of the actuator as soon, regardless of what your boost controller says.
    white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
    white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.

    current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arry View Post
    The T28 oil drain is the same as the T25 mate - it's only GT series turbos that are slightly different from memory.
    Yup

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    Quote Originally Posted by croustibat View Post
    Someone posted he installed one in 4h. I want to see that happenning. I know i am a slow mechanic, but it took quite a lot of time, and i counted days (lots of issues, like stuck core that would not rotate, hoses, that were not good, forgot to install lower bolts on the manifold first and so on).

    Maybe with practice, a tubular mani, and the conversion already done, it could take 4h to bolt everything back. But for a first time AND a conversion, better talk in days of labor
    it was me that said that, there really is nothing difficult to this conversion, its all about under standing wht you need to do. if i had started it without reading loads of threads on here then ye it may have taken me a couple of slow days.

    but i read everything that needed to be done. i used steve carters guide for rotating the core. took 15 mins, yes it was hard to rotate the core but not everyone is gona have a seized one.

    i had a round file that fits a drill so took mintues to file out the hole on the elbow.

    i got a cheap spanner and chopped the ring end of and it made the 2 under bolts easy to sort out.

    i dont have the best tools in the world, and i only used a halfords set, a cheap 50p spanner that i could cut and hammer.

    i have never done this conversion before as this is my first 200sx, it also the first car ive ever done my own work on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arry View Post
    The T28 oil drain is the same as the T25 mate - it's only GT series turbos that are slightly different from memory.

    The return should also be the right length - if it's too long then it may be that the core hasn't rotated far enough for it to point straight downwards.
    yes, mine is a ball bearing core, that explains it.

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    cheers for all the replys and info folks,

    would i be better off runnning a t28 actuator then? im hoping to run about 1 bar, looking for around 260ish bhp with the fmic and stage 2 chip.....will the t25 actuator cope?

    cheers again people, it is very much appreciated,
    brad

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    have you got a boost controller?? that will be your only way of running 1bar,

    the t28 is 6/7psi

    and t25 is 10/11 psi (i think)

    so in theory t25 is better for more boost standard but you have to mess about trying to get it to fit.

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    yeh i have a gizmo elec boost contoller already installed mate, so can run 1 bar easily
    cheers, brad.

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    so.....
    this is what ive learned so far...
    t28 turbo,rotate compressor housing,oil drain pipe is OK,use t28 actuator...(how do i modify it in better detail than the link above...?)file 1 bolt hole on elbow,put gizmo pipes to nipple on my fmic boost pipes and actuator...(do i need to still drill and tap the t28 tho, dont like the sound of that to be honest!)
    buy the adaptor off apex, the one linked above ^^.......
    and everything else should be ok then??........

    is that right?
    sorry for all the questions and if they are total noob ones too,
    just really dont want to start the job and find halfway through that i cant finish it!
    thanks very much again for being so helpful so far people, i really do appreciate it,
    brad

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    Guest arry's Avatar
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    You don't have to modify the actuator - get that out of your head. The actuator just stays attached to the T28 as you bought it, no need to do anything there

    You can either drill and tap the T28 or you can put the nipple in a silicon joiner somewhere - honestly, drill and tapping the T28 isn't hard, it's really straight forward

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    cheers arry, thats perfect mate,
    just 2 more final things.......

    if i already have a take off nipple on my new boost pipe which im going to attatch my boost controller pipe to, the othe pipe off the gizmo will go to actuator....why do i need to drill and tap the t28? what pipe will go to there?

    and secondly.....if i do have to drill and tap, what size etc do i do it and where do i buy the screw in nipple from?

    cheers again, brad

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