Retorquing ARP Head studs to solve a minor leak?

[ELORTO]

Hello.

3 years ago I did fit an Apexi metal head gasket in my S14, along with ARP head studs. I torqued the studs at 70lb as ARP recomended. Now, after 30000kms at 1.4 bar, the head gasket is leaking a bit. There is overpressure in coolant after stopping, and saw once a little plume of white smoke in the back.
I bet the leak's origin is in the thin part between bores 1 and 2, as both spark-plugs get a bit wet after the car is parked a few days.

Surfing the web I have found that people don't torque ARP studs at 70lb anymore. In these days they torque the studs at 80-90lb to avoid head lifting.

So my question is: would it be possible to just retorque the studs at 85lb to solve this minor leak, or a complete head gasket change is needed?

Best Regards sxocers.

P.D: Oh my god, almost 8 years since I joined sxoc! :O

[Rubix_Cube]

Re-torquing them is worth a shot as it'll just cost you some time.

My car has a similar issue, although I use Mazworx studs. I will be trying this when it goes into the workshop.

[bpsmurf]

arp 2000 head studs are supposed to be torqued to 105ftlb but on a alluminium head i wasnt to sure so did mine to 95ftlb, you should re-torque after first 1000 miles, so would be a good idea to re torque

[diamondsink]

To torque them you have to remove the cams. Id just take the head of and change the gasket. I torqued mine to 85ftlbs. It seems very tight when you doing it.

[ELORTO]

95lb! I think my head gasket has kept healthy for 3 years just because I used cooper spray. 70lb and 1,4 bar seems now pretty dangerous.

To me it is far more difficult changing the head gasket than just retorquing the studs. I will give a try to retorquing first.

[Rubix_Cube]

95lb! I think my head gasket has kept healthy for 3 years just because I used cooper spray. 70lb and 1,4 bar seems now pretty dangerous.

To me it is far more difficult changing the head gasket than just retorquing the studs. I will give a try to retorquing first.

You have to remove the cams to get at the studs. After the cams are out, its easy enough to pull the head off. You just have to disconnect all the water stuff, turbo and inlet (or everything connected to the inlet)

[sliding-R]

I had same thing happen on my fully built B series turbo civic.. it started leaking water.

Retorqued the ARP studs and it was fine..

[ELORTO]

I will retorque the studs. I wish this solved the problem.

I have bought a motorbike (V-strom 650 ) and the car is sleeping in the parking for 3 weeks. Well, I already miss my S14a so much! ,even if I think about the high price of RON98 gas.

Long life to the S14a.

[ELORTO]

I had same thing happen on my fully built B series turbo civic.. it started leaking water.

Retorqued the ARP studs and it was fine..

Hello. did you get any mayonnaise in your oil cap? I can see traces of white stuff in the oil cap, so I think the water is also entering in the oil holes.

[sliding-R]

No never has water mix with oil, it just starting leaking a little water from front of head..