Are you sick of manifold and turbo studs/nuts coming loose?

[bahis]

So is it worth a few people try them before making judgments on how good they are. Ok you said they still come loose but how long did they last. Seams like alot of places use by searching google even some guys saying there the shit on turbo manifolds.

God knows I am going to try them next time so will let you guys know.

I'll just say that they are the best washers you can get.

When used with the stock locking tabs they will hold if you have stiff engine/gearbox mounts, properly braced exhaust manifold and a flexi section on your exhaust.

[redsx94!]

Lol fair enough

All I'm using just now is some locking nuts that have some sort of washer tack welded to the top. Even they seemed fine until we had a 5 hour open track to drift lol

[ELORTO]

Fitting a custom-built flexible downpipe was the best mod I did to avoid all these issues with turbo, manifold, vibrations, etc. Never had any stud/nut loosen in 5 years.

[xR33]

Weld the manifold and the elbow to the turbo. It's the only way to be sure .

[Jam00]

I found that fitting new or uprated exhaust hangers helped a lot. will watch the vid when i get home from work.

[testpilot]

Well last night I had a conversation with a guy I know who installs heavy industrial pumps, these as you imagine vibrate a fair bit more than any of our engines do.

Bad news Mark, they use nothing but Nord-Lock washers so if your not quick to buy them there might not be any left although I would think the size they are using is a bit bigger than we would need.

He suggested to try John Smith Ironmongery as they might sell them, he's not sure where his work gets them from.

[Jonny]

Vibration probably isn't the main issue - it's expansion and contraction from the vastly differing heat (100 odd C to 800ish and back again, every time you nail it down a dual carriageway), along with the weight of the turbo etc hanging off the studs.

[redsx94!]

It will expand and then retract and if there's any slack the nord lock should take it up.

[clarity]

I used these, http://esvc000758.wic055u.server-web...rofile2-BX.pdf

[Jonny]

It will expand and then retract and if there's any slack the nord lock should take it up.

For someone that's never actually used these, you seem to think they are going to solve all of the world's problems...

They are only one solution to the problem. There's loads of other solution - K-Nuts, Aero Nuts, Copper Nuts, Locking Tabs, Tacking the Nuts to the stud, welding the whole lot up, retapping for M10 studs, etc etc..

[voodoo_melon]

It will expand and then retract and if there's any slack the nord lock should take it up.

They won't take up slack All they do is make the whole lot tighen up for the first 1/8th (or so) turn of the nut. If the nut is loose they won't make any difference at all.

[s14unimog]

OR.... Conical Top locking nuts... I've used them for years and they're cheap. Its an slight interference thread engagement that doesn't care about the heat. just my .02

[testpilot]

Why are so many people posting on this thread trying to take a pick at it for the sake of taking a pick.

Another possible solution has been offered, a relatively cheap one compared to replacing tubby gasket every other week.

Try it don't try it but don't take the piss for the sake of it.

I'll take the word of a mechanical engineer over someone else who hasn't experienced or tried these if that's all the same with you.

I will certainly be buying some to try out on the Galant when I pull my finger out.

[fergS13]

we use nord locks at work and they survive 6years on trains............. but then again so does any shake proof we have used with the bolt torqued up correctly.

[Fordy]

OK so if they are so great then why don't they get fitted to newly made cars?

New cars have locking nuts, an exhaust/turbo correctly braced and with a flexi in the correct place. And they have turbos and exhausts/dpfs/cats much heavier and larger than ours.

No need to fit special washers when the problem lies elsewhere on the car imo

[SX Sam]

Weld the manifold and the elbow to the turbo. It's the only way to be sure .

This!!

You can always grind the weld back off when you want to remove it, and it will never blow again!

Some new cars, VX220 Turbo's for instance, have a 1 piece manifold and turbo.

[redsx94!]

OK so if they are so great then why don't they get fitted to newly made cars?

New cars have locking nuts, an exhaust/turbo correctly braced and with a flexi in the correct place. And they have turbos and exhausts/dpfs/cats much heavier and larger than ours.

No need to fit special washers when the problem lies elsewhere on the car imo

They actually do get used on some new cars.

Also I don't think they will solve all problems. But you guys are knocking it before you try it.

Also like testpilot I have a really good engineer who suggested I try it. So I thought I would share it with my fellow sx'rs. At least I thought to be fellow.

[redsx94!]

They won't take up slack All they do is make the whole lot tighen up for the first 1/8th (or so) turn of the nut. If the nut is loose they won't make any difference at all.

That's why I would use it with the locking nuts I use now also. So it digs into the threads keeping my nut stiff while if the thread ie stud starts to turn out it will turn the nord lock washer.

[redsx94!]

Another link with hope that they will work

http://www.canadanissan.com/showthre...ocking-Washers

[p.nicholas]

Big fan of the re-usable Stainless Aero nuts with stainless studding.
I used these on my s14 stainless manifold to downpipe and front pipe set up and reused them many times (not cheap but worth it)