found this while looking for info on simplifying the complex cooling circuit
http://driftopia.com/2007/11/14/ca18...10-lines-to-1/
but i need to add connections for my heater matrix (or will be nippy in winter lol)
where should i add the heater matric connections, should i tee into that pipe feeding the rear block connection? anyone got pics on there setup?
You would need to T the feed into pipe replacing the rail on the back of the manifold , and the return into the rear block connection
no pics, but my coolant system has 4 pipes.... radiator top and bottom, and the matrix send and return, eveything else comes from a rail under the inlet mani fold... replace the rail with a pipe and thats pretty much it....
any chance of taking a pic, i assume you have tee'd that pipe or presumably coolant flow around the block would stop when the heaters were on cold
Originally Posted by IceBlade
sorry bud so much under my bonnet theres no chance of a pic, should of took one when i had the block out last
What he's done with the by-pass from 1a to 10b is stupid. The by-pass takes hot water from the head and passes it back to the pump. Putting a hose from the back of the block to the back of the stat stops or even reverses the flow.
When the stat is shut there can't be any flow as the only outlet from head/block is though the jiggle pin hole, the pump is pumping into what is nigh on a stopped end. The pump will suck on the rad but the rad can't get much water as the stat is shut, this will cause cavitation in the pump. As there is next to no flow local hot spots in the head will boil and erode the head. As there is only the piddle flow though the jiggle pin hole the stat will take longer to get warm and open.
Once the stat opens, there is a larger pressure drop in the long flow path from block > 2 holes at back of gasket > though small passages in head past 16 valves and 4 cylinder heads than though the tube. Water will by-pass the head so head will not get full flow and be under cooled. Water from block is much cooler than water from head so stat will be partly shut reducing flow, head gets warmer still.
So care to offer a solution then, I want to keep my oil cooler and heater connections and get rid of everything else
That description of stat closed water circuit is garbage, he's got the turbo and heater flow backwards.
Water enters pump > block
Block rear exit 1 > oil cooler > T > pump inlet
Block rear exit 2 > heater > return tube end
Block exhaust side > turbo > plenum > return tube small end stub
Main flow Block > head > stat > by-pass > return tube large front stub
return tube > T > T > pump inlet
By-pass has by-pass though throttle > return tube front small stub.
When stat opens there is 1 additional path, nothing else changes flow.
Stat > rad > T > T > pump
Depends on if you have a fabricated manifold and journal bearing turbo. If you have, you can remove the turbo water cooling. Cast manifold or ball bearing turbo means you can't remove the turbo water cooling and the connection though back of plenum is vital to that function.
You can remove the throttle heater, I doubt there's much risk of icing unless you get up on Devon moors in winter. The IC will probably ice first.
If you want the oil cooler then both Ts at pump inlet are needed.
If you have access to silver soldering kit to blank off unused stubs it's better as removing a rubber hose and then blanking the stub with a short hose and plug still has 2 joints.
I think the whole return system, the 2 T's and return pipe could be made one piece by brazing or silver soldering them together with short metal pipes in place of the rubber hoses. That would eliminate the 2 short hoses and 4 joints between the 2 Ts and the return pipe.
I doubt that a hose could be routed under the throttle and back to the return tube to make the by-pass in one length.
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