Ok so the car spat it's dummy out today for no reason and now it's running like a sack of crap, want some expert advise on it and idealy a reputable garage that could take a peek, anybody show me the way ?
Ok so the car spat it's dummy out today for no reason and now it's running like a sack of crap, want some expert advise on it and idealy a reputable garage that could take a peek, anybody show me the way ?
you could have popped along to the local meet tonight which had the largest selection of 200 experts in any one place in the ne
Whats it doing
Not confident driving it that far tbh
All of a sudden yesterday it lost all power and went crazy lumpy/misfiring... Pulled over and it had blown a boost hose off, popped it back on and all was well,
Then about 8 miles later I put my foot down in 2nd gear, it popped and banged and went so lumpy the more gas i gave it , it just slowed down as if the battery was disconnected? Pulled over and it cut out. Tried to start it and it cranked fine but wouldn't start, exhaust was popping and banging something rotten tho.
Left it 5 mins and started fine, then drove about 5miles like s nana and it did it again?
Dud this 3 times befor I got it home, then 4 hours after getting home I took it out again and was absolutely fine, boosting as usual? Checked usual stuff(boost leak/plugs/coil pack/electrical connections) and all fine ?
Its either still got a boost leak, the afm plug is dislodged, holes in pistons dont fix them selves
Unpluged afm and plugged it in when it 1st happened and made no diff, cant visually see a boost/vac leak but haven't pressure tested it yet. Just don't understand why over the space of 4 hours without even touching the car it appears to have cured itself ? It's a head scratcher
Last edited by seany boi; 01-11-2010 at 07:57. Reason: Terrible spelling
When did it last have plugs, when the boost pipe came off the plugs will have goten a good soaking especialy if you drove it whilst poping and banging.
secure all your boost hoses and get a new set of quality plugs in....
could be a coil pack breaking down.
my old s14a did the same thing and was a complete biatch to start
plugs were changed twice recently to try and cure my origional missfire, once about 1k ago and again about 800 miles ago, between the boost pipe blowing off and the bad running/cutting out i drove about 10miles on and of boost and all was fine, il change them anyway tho
regards to coilpacks, i changed them about 2k ago when i thought 1 of mine had gone down..when i investigated it was just 1 of the plugs had popped off the coil pack, still changed them but kept the old ones so il try that aswel, thanks for the help folks
i work till late during the week so il try the above on saturday morning
Ok, here goes...
Plugs are already gapped to .7 so didn't touch them,
Car starts and drives fine but haven't been more than 5 miles from home, but no problems with the general running, obv it hadn't got up to running temp so no WOT moments to see how it went on boost.
Come home and pressure tested it, results are..
#1 cold - 133psi, hot - 133psi
#2 cold - 133psi, hot - 131psi
#3 cold - 140psi, hot - 131psi
#4 cold - 140psi, hot - 130psi
going to check for boost leaks again now, not to sure what to make of the pressure test results, expected about 140psi across all 4, definately didn't expect a 10psi drop when hot, diagnosis ? Is it safe or dead?
do a wet compression test, if the pressures jump up your ring are worn......
Wet test ? Sorry for being thick but how do I do that ?
Think I found the problem, started the car yesterday and while running unplugged the afm and the engine behaved exactly like it did when the fault appeared so going to try that 1st. Gave it a clean drove it a whole 2miles befor it started kangarooing and popping/banging. I watched the afr gauge and it was all over the shop so fingers x'd the new afm will solve it. Damn I love nissans
a wet test is just a compression test but put a drop of oil in cylinder , if your rings are worn it will create a seal and you will get a higher readin,
if there fine the reading should stay around the same as before
Last edited by Ricey; 08-11-2010 at 08:29.
Cheers Ricey. Il try that aswel
Ahh you do listen some times...Originally Posted by Ricey
a wet test is just a compression test but put a drop of oil in cylinder , if your rings are worn it will create a seal and you will get a higher readin,
if there fine the reading should stay around the same as before
Just to add if the readings stay the same with a wet test it woud indicate worn valve seats...
Did tests. All fine. Fitted another AFM and the problems still there.
Only happens when the car gets up to temp, goes lumpy as he'll and cuts out. More help ? Can take a video if needed ?
you need to check the ECU for fault codes, sounds like you may have a temp sensor fault.
do a search on the forum for fault codes, and you will find how to put the ECU into diagnostic mode and what the codes mean.
Saying that mate, I remember a few years back I had a 106Gti, and it did exactly the same thing as this, only when it was up to temp. That was a coolant temp sensor, il try tomorrow.
Temp sensor ordered, got both of them just incase, even tho the gauge reads fine.
Didn't try the fault code reader yet, the car stays at her dads house and weathers shocking
all you need for fault codes is a bit of wire or paper clip mateTemp sensor ordered, got both of them just incase, even tho the gauge reads fine.
Didn't try the fault code reader yet, the car stays at her dads house and weathers shocking
Car's miles away tho and can't be arsed to head down. Il check it when I fit the temp sensor, hopefully thatl cure it
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