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Thread: Engine rebuilt but blowing dipstick out

  1. #21
    Guest al.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by moons657 View Post
    yea mine is redtop with the t piece at the exhaust side.so i came outta the crankcase into the t piece then outta the other side and into the catch can.that sound right?
    yours is vta and you've put it on the exhaust side of the cam cover? so basically you have a vacuum leak. unmetered air comes in the vta catch can, across the cam cover, and into the inlet manifold via the pcv valve.

  2. #22
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    Al. I agree with you on the way it works. Off boost, the stock system is better. But on boost, I am not sure if only having one vent going to the turbocharger is better than having two full size vents going to the atmosphere.

    But I am very bothered by the bad smell in the coupé fan, so next winter I am going to have 12mm hoses from both vents going to a proper catch tank and then into the inlet pipe of the turbocharger. Oh, I just thought of that I have a 1/2" check valve for air, I might just try venting a bit back to the inlet aswell then.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by moons657 View Post
    ive only started to drive it hard in the last 10 miles or so.10 40 semi synthetic was used to run it in
    DOH. you should always use mineral oil to bed an engine in. chances are the rings havent bedded in and you will have to strip it all back and get the bores rehoned
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

  4. #24
    Guest al.'s Avatar
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    recirculating back before the turbo is definitely better than vta in terms of breathing, but not so good for coating the intercooler and turbo with oil. you could put a steel wool plug in the line between the cam cover and turbo inlet to condense the oil etc out but it's not ideal.

    if it's bothering you then separate the breather system entirely from the engine - get an electric vacuum pump from a diesel engine and use that to scavenge the crankcase. put a filter on the exhaust side of the cam cover, run the crankcase to the back of the cam cover (as standard) then run the exhaust side of the cam cover to catch can and the outlet of the catch can to the vacuum pump.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    DOH. you should always use mineral oil to bed an engine in. chances are the rings havent bedded in and you will have to strip it all back and get the bores rehoned
    could be the reason alright but why do you have to use mineral oil?the lad who built the engine said use 10 40semi...

    Quote Originally Posted by al. View Post
    recirculating back before the turbo is definitely better than vta in terms of breathing, but not so good for coating the intercooler and turbo with oil. you could put a steel wool plug in the line between the cam cover and turbo inlet to condense the oil etc out but it's not ideal.

    if it's bothering you then separate the breather system entirely from the engine - get an electric vacuum pump from a diesel engine and use that to scavenge the crankcase. put a filter on the exhaust side of the cam cover, run the crankcase to the back of the cam cover (as standard) then run the exhaust side of the cam cover to catch can and the outlet of the catch can to the vacuum pump.
    if i wanted to redo the catch can,what exact way would i do it?bearing in mind i dont have a pcv valve on the car...

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by moons657 View Post
    could be the reason alright but why do you have to use mineral oil?the lad who built the engine said use 10 40semi...



    if i wanted to redo the catch can,what exact way would i do it?bearing in mind i dont have a pcv valve on the car...
    too many friction reducers in synth and semi synth, slows down the bedding in of the rings

    why don't you have a pcv valve? if you don't, then you'll also be currently running with a boost leak as well as a vacuum leak.

    put the side with the t-piece back to stock and use the catch can between the inlet side of the cam cover and the pcv valve.

    so it goes: cam cover > catch can > pcv valve > inlet manifold

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by al. View Post
    too many friction reducers in synth and semi synth, slows down the bedding in of the rings

    why don't you have a pcv valve? if you don't, then you'll also be currently running with a boost leak as well as a vacuum leak.

    put the side with the t-piece back to stock and use the catch can between the inlet side of the cam cover and the pcv valve.

    so it goes: cam cover > catch can > pcv valve > inlet manifold
    ah right lad.im not so sure i know what this pcv valve is now.where is it?

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by moons657 View Post
    could be the reason alright but why do you have to use mineral oil?the lad who built the engine said use 10 40semi...
    Well he shouldnt be building engines in that case

    Rings need to bed in, if they are lubricated with a decent oil they wont mineral oil has lower lubrication properties and doesnt contain friction modifiers etc so it allows the rings to bed in correctly. He has given you bad advice and would be covering the rebuild costs if it was me
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

  9. #29
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    mspaint to the rescue


  10. #30
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    ive jus finished running mine in and i used mineral oil upto 500miles then semi synthetic due to reasons given above, you should also bed the rings in using WOT 30 or 40 times from 2000~3000rpm on your first outing, at least this is what i was lead to believe and i have no jumpy dipstick lol

  11. #31
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    im gonna redo the oil catch can and reroute it the right way as yous were saying.then do a compression test and see if theres anything unusual
    thanks for all the help lads,im contemplating taking the whole engine out again cause my nice clean block is now covered in oil

  12. #32
    Guest al.'s Avatar
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    i'm sure you're already planning on it, but make sure you do a dry test then a wet one, with a small amount of oil down the bores.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    DOH. you should always use mineral oil to bed an engine in. chances are the rings havent bedded in and you will have to strip it all back and get the bores rehoned


    tbh mate.. most engine builders say use semi.. since they cannot guarentee the motor will not see more of a beating than mineral can support..
    i can list at least 5 engine builders that if sending out a crate motor say use semi..
    no its not correct.. but its an inbetweeny best situation

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinbattye View Post
    inbetweeny

    is that the technical term?

  15. #35
    Guest martinbattye's Avatar
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    shut up yeah..


  16. #36
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    you bast*ard

    *edit. i look like ive got aids

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinbattye View Post
    tbh mate.. most engine builders say use semi.. since they cannot guarentee the motor will not see more of a beating than mineral can support..
    i can list at least 5 engine builders that if sending out a crate motor say use semi..
    no its not correct.. but its an inbetweeny best situation
    But how the hell are the rings supposed to bed in

    Anyone thrashing a fresh build is a bit of a nobber and IMO it doesnt matter what oil is in there if you do that it will more than likely go pop

    This is why I dont build engines for other people, far too many chances of it going tits up and you not knowing how its been driven
    Quote Originally Posted by silverzx View Post
    I like Mark, he seems fair.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slip_n_slide View Post
    Mark is right.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    But how the hell are the rings supposed to bed in

    Anyone thrashing a fresh build is a bit of a nobber and IMO it doesnt matter what oil is in there if you do that it will more than likely go pop

    This is why I dont build engines for other people, far too many chances of it going tits up and you not knowing how its been driven
    there seems to be an increasing number of engine builders who are recommending the motoman method of bedding in, which basically involves thrashing the engine in a certain way. i'm not convinced, but there's a lot of evidence to suggest it works better than the traditional method.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by al. View Post
    i'm sure you're already planning on it, but make sure you do a dry test then a wet one, with a small amount of oil down the bores.
    yea ill check it all out when i get round to it.i am sick of the thing now.i want an ae86hahaha

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by al. View Post
    there seems to be an increasing number of engine builders who are recommending the motoman method of bedding in, which basically involves thrashing the engine in a certain way. i'm not convinced, but there's a lot of evidence to suggest it works better than the traditional method.
    this is true, however i know the old method works well and as a result my theory is that if you can afford to pull it apart again and rehone etc etc then feel free to kick its balls in from day 1, if not then use the old method.

    also id always run it in on mineral oil, again not worth the risk of it not bedding in properly as unfortunetly appears to have happened.

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