Hi guys, Is there any threads on doing an s14 engine conversion? It needs to be done! Sick
of changing 1.8 s13 engines every 6 months!
Hi guys, Is there any threads on doing an s14 engine conversion? It needs to be done! Sick
of changing 1.8 s13 engines every 6 months!
There are, the SR20 conversion, in the FAQ or sticky thread in here.
you may want to look into why you keep killing them? I know thorntons make ca shells but 6 months!
SR20 isn't a magic bullet if it's an old engine, they all suffer from a variety of problems, CA/SR/RB whatever.
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
hahahahaha hows about you rebuild a CA properly...
they are not weak in the slightest..
a high mileage run on mineral piss oil thats not been changed for 40000 miles is going to blow up.. but and SR treated the same will be just the same..
stop sticking gash 2nd hand engines in it and do a nice rebuild...
provided your bores are good (reuse stock piston) then a rebuild can be done for waaaay under a grand if your farming the work out.. if you do it yourself you can do it for about 300quid.
youve misunderstood... i meant a high mileage SR thats had shitty oil will blow up just the same every 6months as a CA will..
imho both units are as good as each other
its all swings and roundabouts... or slides and bouncy castles if you prefer. Dont discount the CA at all : and if you want some pics of inside a neglected SR pm me... you will be horrified
Maybe I worded my post badly but I was agreeing with you mate , I've lost count of the fooked SR20's that I've seen.
Big end problems are a regular feature on a lot of them now, normally because of abuse and poor servicing which sees the spray bars block and progressing on from there. The CA got a bad rep for worn bottom ends earlier on but now that the SR is getting older, you see more and more of them with the same problems.
Thanks for your input guys, well mines down on compression so it won't start without a bump! And the bottom end is rattling now I'm a self employed mechanic so i'm pretty clued up and I'm very strict with servicing. I use very decent oil and change in every 5000 miles or less. But on the other hand I give it a hard time I do drive it hard. Now maybe if I got a decent replacement engine and ran it with an oil cooler surely that would help?? Because most engine damage in my case is due to overheating oil not doing it's job properly. What you guys think?
Check out the breathers on the CA18DET as they block for fun with slugde etc especially the one from the crankcase to the cam covers.
^^ this, make sure if you are rebuilding it, do it properly and don't use the original oil pump etc.
i'd buy a few cheap engines that are knackered in one way or another, rings, big ends, whatever and make a single engine using the best of the parts but using new nissan stuff when it's sensible. (i.e. oil/water pump, nissan seals/gaskets etc.)
after mine was rebuilt, the only time i had a problem was when an oil pressure gauge line that i'd installed badly (yes, i did learn from it ) split and pissed my oil everywhere. do it properly, once
Last edited by alanjuggler; 21-01-2010 at 13:47.
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits - RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
No replacement for displacement. Remember that pushing 300bhp out of an engine built for 170 is asking alot.
Getting an oil cooler or large oil pan is a no brainer IMO.
no it isnt,,, /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
a stock internally fresh CA can cope with this output for ever.
Thats been proven time over, treated right they are weapons. Martin and Alan are right. Instead of forking out for all these engines; sort out a decent foundation for your build i.e a block with decent bores and a decent head and do the build yourself. All you need is the user manual and as your a mechanic Id guess you have all tools. Gasket kit, oil n water pumps, replacement belts, shells etc. Put it all together with patience and accuracy and you will be laughing. You will be proud of your work 2!
yup... and TBH fresh oil pumps arent necessary unless gear float and tooth damage is an issue.. saves quite a chunk
sky... i would say tho an ester based oil could be used for longer.... not worth the risk tho..
think about the state of the rubbish mineral oil nissan put in them to start with!!