project 180sx

[alanjuggler]

after some heavy FAST searching, P10 primera air bag ring / squib is the same as the 180, replaced & now fixed.

in addition, due to originally test fitting the front arb with the whiteline (which cleared the RB sump) then deciding what I wanted was the original 180 one on there (which doesn't clear the RB sump and incidentally, is thicker than a UK version) I had to pull my finger out and actually finish milling my spacers. one spacer completed today.. a professional machinist would be in tears at the state of the tolerances




intake plenum is now fully bolted on and I've been fiddling with the fuel lines, just need to get some more supplies to do more finishing.

[Paulpen]

DOnt suppose you have a thickness measurement of them at all - my Syko ones are a few mm too thin so just rub the paint off

[alanjuggler]

I'm not sure how thick they're supposed to be to actually work - I kind of eyeballed the first one and I needed some longer M10 fine bolts to test fit it

do you mean the thickness of the largest part? iirc that's about 22mm, width is 37.28mm. I know the width to two decimals purely due to the maths needed to get the machine spindle in centre

I'm not sure if they'll be thick enough to clear it enough but we'll see and I have spare aluminium if not

[Paulpen]

Id be curious how much clearance you do have and if its enough you might need to sell me a pair

[alanjuggler]

I'll post up as to how it goes

[alanjuggler]

finished the other spacer, fitted. about a little finger's width of clearance. that's with an R33 GTST crossmember.

a complete pain in the bumhole to fit. should have bought longer bolts or should have drilled out the short stud in the tension rod mounts and put a longer one in.

probably didn't help that I was using 200sx bushes and the 180 rollbar is a tiny bit thicker so had to compress the bushes to get the threads started. still, fitted now, seems OK. will get some pics when the light is better.

hohum.

paul, don't think I'm happy enough with the standard to offer my work to other people, too much hassle to fit. i can't imagine that a production piece is that much of a pain.

[Paulpen]

Thats cool chap - think ill go down the route of a longer studs too then

[alanjuggler]

a longer stud would allow way more flexibility with the spacer anyhow - the reason the design is so tight for that design is that the combination of the way it mounts. I've seen others that move the ARB mount about 2cm further forwards but I imagine that'd cause complications with the drop links.

it'd be impossible to make the spacer much thicker than 22mm-25mm given the restrictions of the short stud.

now I've thought on more after last night, it felt like putting poly bushes on the steering rack using the standard bolts that are slightly too short to get them easily started without the bushes compressing. I think m10x1.25x50mm bolts would be much better, I went for 40mm and it's too short.

if you do get longer studs and need something machined up. I have a nismo powerbrace off the car so can test stuff out.

[alanjuggler]

update:

it starts & works.



need to fine tune the map (still running a standard VG30DETT map ) so need to do some fiddling.

slight miss as it warms up, so suspect this is something to do with it. need to get an SR20 dash temp sender, forgot I'd put a CA one in there.

loads of small stuff to finish off but towards the end of it.

biggest shitter was the slave cylinder threads in the RB20 bell housing I got were pretty badly galled, so wouldn't take tightening. have to be helicoiled.

[craiglancs]

Glad to hear its running mate, can't wait to hear that engine!

[alanjuggler]

just remembered that I hadn't done any fiddling with the knock sensor gubbins. remembered that the RB25 setup on the Z32 ecu leads to an oversensitive knock control. possibly another reason for the misfire.

will have to do a proper startup map on nistune and burn it

[alanjuggler]

not perfect, there's two problems currently.

slightly kinked hose going to the cold start valve so needs a throttle press to start.

no. 4 drops occasionally - took the plugs out, jiggled the coilpack and it came back up. I think no. 4 coilpack is dying - you can hear it drop again at the end of the video. they were unknown mileage so not entirely unsurprising.

[craiglancs]

Sounds good so far tho pal! clever stuff with that laptop plugged in there, i wouldn't have a clue!

[alanjuggler]

cheers chap,

have to pull my finger out and sort the map out too, the VG30 map must be having an impact on it too.

[craiglancs]

Sure you'll sort it mate! Are u car'ing it on Tuesday? I'll try and bob over and start rotary correcting mine if u are? Its gonna be a long job!

[alanjuggler]

as it happens, I am

in a positive note, I've been doing some more fiddling and it seems to be sorted. now running all on six - didn't touch the coilpacks, just added a separate ground between the alternator and the body - realised I hadn't put it on. might have been a low voltage issue if alternator wasn't supplying at a high enough voltage

also sorted the kink in the hose, so could have been a combination.

[craiglancs]

Nice one I'll come round about 930 then, see how much polishing i can get done! And listen to this straight 6

[Si]

Sterling work sir!

[craiglancs]

Alans car actually moved today, and sounded awesome in the process!

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

[alanjuggler]

I think your phone was overawed by the awesomeness of my car and cocked up the exposure. here's some more.









a few older ones to show the dual AFM setup/translator I'm using so I can stubbornly stick with a Z32 nistune setup when in reality I probably should have bought something totally aftermarket.