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Thread: My S14 Reshell/rufurb/rebuild. Major project so will take a long time.

  1. #41
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    Would be good to post details of the rollover jig on here I am sure there would be a lot of people interested, or even offer to make them I am sure you would have a few customers. Good work btw, looking forward to watching your project progress

  2. #42
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    anything more done today?

  3. #43
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Right todays update. Not too much to report really.

    Managed to get about everything off the bottom now, just the diff cooler IIRC. So looks like this now.





    I had a scrape a round with a paint/wallpaper scraper to try and identify where the worst of the rust is and I found a hole



    Luckily only a little one and easy to fix.

    Here are some pics of the other areas of rust underneath. Nothing bad just surface rust by the look of it but I am now reconsidering getting the underside blasted or doing it myself if I can find some where where I can borrow/hire the equipment. Just for ease and time saving.














    This bit where the subby mounts join the sill area will be cut out and boxed in with new metal.



    To finish off I got the engine bay about clear other than the wiring. I cant beleive how many unused holes with grommets in there are in the bay.



    Tomorrow I will trying to take off as much as pos again. Im going to start in the boot I recon.
    Oh and the diff cooler will be coming off.
    Last edited by spice_weazle; 07-01-2013 at 20:41.

  4. #44
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    just that one little tiny hole in the front cross member. see i told everyone it was a tidy shell yet still took over 12 months to sell.

    to be fair you are moving far more quickly then i thought you would have done.

  5. #45
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by karl elwell View Post
    just that one little tiny hole in the front cross member. see i told everyone it was a tidy shell yet still took over 12 months to sell.

    to be fair you are moving far more quickly then i thought you would have done.

    It all seems pretty solid, only surface rust and you have expect rust on car thats over 10 years old. Ive certainly seen a lot worse.

    Taking stuff off is the easy bit. Putting all back together is going to be the hard bit.

  6. #46
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Todays little update.

    The underneath is now clear. Got the diff cooler and tow eye off. thats all that was left on the bottom of it. Again just surface rust behind the cooler.

    Got the boot pretty much cleared. Just need to feed the loom through to the front which I cant do until Ive worked out how to remove the arial from the body.



    I then climbed into the cabin to start on the masses of wires. Managed to remove these two bits of loom out.



    TBH its the wiring that Im a little worried about when it come to putting everything back together, there is loads of it. I may even try to get rid of some of it as I wont be having aircon and pos some other stuff.

    Im defo going to sand blast the underside of the shell and pos other parts where there is rust. I forgot we have blasting cabinet at work that we dont use(thats why I forgot we had it) so Im taking the gun out of that to use. I just need to source some blast media to use with it.

    The main thing I need to do is work out how to remove the front screen as it needs replacing cos there is rust along the bottom edge that you could only find if you removed all the trim and wiper assembly and can only be treated by removing the screen. The screen is cracked too. Oh and find the easiest way of removing all the danm seam sealant.

    Tomorrow I will be attacking the wiring again.
    Last edited by spice_weazle; 12-01-2013 at 19:27.

  7. #47
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Another little update.

    I got the rest of the wiring out today.





    I cant believe how much it all wieghs and what a PITA it was to remove. My hands are cut to bits from feeding cables and what not through holes that are barely big enough.

    I also got the rest of the interior out.





    Just a few bits of trim left and then thats it, time to start on the sound proofing and the sealant. On that note if any one knows a way to remove the sealant other than scraping it out please let me know.

    So thats it for another day. Hopefully tomorrow Ill get the last few bits of trim off and then Ill start to plan out the fabrication work needed.
    Last edited by spice_weazle; 12-01-2013 at 19:29.

  8. #48
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    Todays update, not a lot to say really and no pics today.

    I got all the remaining trim off and started on the sound proofing. I also started to make my sand blasting hopper in readyness for the removal of rust.

    Im wanting to remove all the glass now too. The front screen needs to be replaced with the one in my road worthy car cos its cracked but if I can find out to remove all the glass without breaking it I will do.

    Thats it for today.

  9. #49
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    you need to remove all the un-used wiring from the looms mate

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    Wiring is not a real problem to put back in. If you are ditching ABS (like I did) then you can remove almost all of the wiring that runs down the passenger sill. The stuff behind the dash will only go in one place really...

    The worst bit is joining the looms together by the in car fuse box (the 2 big sqaure bolt on connectors) but only because it's difficult to achieve an oem fit once you've taken it out.

  11. #51
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2-lEE-G View Post
    you need to remove all the un-used wiring from the looms mate
    I think thats beyond my skills really. It would never run again.

    Quote Originally Posted by dread View Post
    Wiring is not a real problem to put back in. If you are ditching ABS (like I did) then you can remove almost all of the wiring that runs down the passenger sill. The stuff behind the dash will only go in one place really...

    The worst bit is joining the looms together by the in car fuse box (the 2 big sqaure bolt on connectors) but only because it's difficult to achieve an oem fit once you've taken it out.
    When I take the loom out my s14 im going to label everything up. Hopefully that will help a little.

  12. #52
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    Bloody good work mate Least you know when its all done your have a show room condtion shell.

  13. #53
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by madAl View Post
    Bloody good work mate Least you know when its all done your have a show room condtion shell.
    Thats the idea. Im trying to make it as new as pos. Im paranoid about rust and want to do as much as I can to remove and prevent it.

  14. #54
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    when it comes round to the wiring give me a shout and i ll give you a hand! or anything else at that

  15. #55
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by T2-lEE-G View Post
    when it comes round to the wiring give me a shout and i ll give you a hand! or anything else at that
    Nice one mate. Im sure Ill be in need of your knowledge and skills at some point.

  16. #56
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    Just a little update today.

    Been scraping out the sound proofing and would say Ive got about 40% out so far. Im glad I decided to get rid of it cos the sealant that holds some of the 'patches' on over the holes in the floor have let moisture in and rust has started to develope, you can see it in the pics. Left untreated all my hard work will have been wasted in a few years as it would of rusted from the inside out so Im glad I cought it early.





    Will get the rest out next week.
    Last edited by spice_weazle; 12-01-2013 at 19:30.

  17. #57
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    Wicked stuff mate, ace opportunity. I'm thinking I might just have my front deadening out now to track rust like that.

  18. #58
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    I wasnt expecting to find any rust under the deadening. My current s14 dindnt have any under the deadening behind the front seats when I removed it so goes to show every car is different. The rust isnt bad at all just surface rust but like I say Im glad I found it now.

  19. #59
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    Very thorough so far mate, that shell is actually ony 4 numbers away on the number plate than mine, and by the looks of things has rust in exactly the same places .

    As you have mentioned the rust under the deadening, i am now very tempted to look under mine just to check to see if it has the same issues, as like you say, the work done will go to waste if it rots from the inside out

  20. #60
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    great thread mate and industrial steamer mate can be used to get the sound deadening off easier itl get all that sticky shit looser than it usually is

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