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Thread: My S14 Reshell/rufurb/rebuild. Major project so will take a long time.

  1. #261
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gonzomagic View Post
    Its good attention to detail you have there mate, same time I was trying to put myself in your shoes. You have done it to a tee now, I personally would not owrry about the tiny pin hole, same time, I wouldnt want to have regrets later, if that makes sense.

    Im going to have a look at it this morning when I get to work and make a decision. I just dont all my work to be wasted for the sake of a few hours extra work. It all depends on the amount of rust inside the chassis rail and how well I get to it to clean it out.

  2. #262
    Guest gonzomagic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    Im going to have a look at it this morning when I get to work and make a decision. I just dont all my work to be wasted for the sake of a few hours extra work. It all depends on the amount of rust inside the chassis rail and how well I get to it to clean it out.
    Exactly. One of the reasons I wouldnt do it, is I dont have the tool, space, actual physical ability/place to carry out such work (London sucks), otherwise I would deffo consider what you are saying. Few hours of work vs rust to come back later

    Keep it up mate, I wish I could help with such a project

  3. #263
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Well I had a good look at the inner sill section and have decided to cut some more out and make a new replacement piece that will be welded in. Looking at it its going to be hard to remove 100% of the rust in the area where the rear chassis rail meets the inner sill so Im going to cut most of the inner sill out at the rear up to where the rear seat shelf meets it. This will give me better access to clean out the chassis rail but the way the thicker floor plate(the part with the elongated hole in) joins the rest of the floor will make impossible to remove all the rust, Ill do the best I can though.

  4. #264
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Latest update.

    I have now pretty much made the new bigger replacement section of inner sill and also cut more of the original sill out. Here is some pics.

    Here is the new hole.



    The rust inside the rear chassis rail(Im glad Ive cut the sill away now because I can get in to try and clean it up a bit, though I dont think Ill be able to remove all the rust in there ).









    Heres a some pics of the new section in postion, just checkking fitment.








    TBH Im much happier with the new piece and Im glad I decided to cut more out and make a new replacement section.

    Ill be getting busy with the wire brushes again tomorrow.

  5. #265
    Guest gonzomagic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    Latest update.

    I have now pretty much made the new bigger replacement section of inner sill and also cut more of the original sill out. Here is some pics.

    Here is the new hole.



    The rust inside the rear chassis rail(Im glad Ive cut the sill away now because I can get in to try and clean it up a bit, though I dont think Ill be able to remove all the rust in there ).









    Heres a some pics of the new section in postion, just checkking fitment.








    TBH Im much happier with the new piece and Im glad I decided to cut more out and make a new replacement section.

    Ill be getting busy with the wire brushes again tomorrow.
    Happy days

  6. #266
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Todays little update.

    Done some wire brushing in the rear chassis rail today.







    I dont think I will be able to get too much more off with wire brushes so I got this today.



    Its a little sand blaster. It only has a small nossle on it so no good for large areas but I recon it will work a treat inside the chassis rail and should be able to get in the corners where the brushes cant... Ill soon find out tomorrow.

  7. #267
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Here is the latest update, from last week.

    I had a go with the shot blaster inside the chassis rail. It did remove more rust than with the just the wire brushes but I did have another go with the wire brush after blasting to try and remove as much rust as pos.

    heres a pic just before blasting, you can see a bit of rag I pushed insidet the rail to try and prevent going up inside the rail where it would be hard to get it out.



    and here is some pics after blasting.









    and after a little more wire brushing.



    As you can see there is still some rust visable but its taken around 4 hours of blasting and wire brushing to get it this far so Ive decided its the best I can do. Ive treated the whole area with the HYDRATE-80 which hopefully nuetralize the remaining rust and help prevent it spreading.









    All that is left to do is paint it with ELECTROX primer to further help the rust from spreading and new rust developing.

    Then I can start to gradually welding it all back together.
    Last edited by spice_weazle; 06-04-2010 at 20:47.

  8. #268
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    I finally put some paint on today rather than take it off the inner sill/chassis rail. 2 coats of ELECTROX primer(thinned down a little) should help keep the rust at bay.













    It wouldnt of been possible to get the paint up into the chassis rail with out the help of this.



    Hopefully I will be making a start on the welding tomorrow. I only have 2 weeks until my operation so want to get as much welded up as pos before then.

  9. #269
    Guest CillianS14a's Avatar
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    Some very good progress there, i've been following this thread for a good while now. I see you've replaced the very same part of the sill that i had to cut out last week. Good thinking to remove the hole that looks to have been the culprit. I'm going to tell the welder to weld over the holes that were letting the water in. Have you any advice on what sort of metal and were to put it?

  10. #270
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CillianS14a View Post
    Some very good progress there, i've been following this thread for a good while now. I see you've replaced the very same part of the sill that i had to cut out last week. Good thinking to remove the hole that looks to have been the culprit. I'm going to tell the welder to weld over the holes that were letting the water in. Have you any advice on what sort of metal and were to put it?
    All of the new pieces Ive fabricated are made in 1.2mm mild steel. The only pieces that are different is the B pillar base and Ive used 1.6mm for that to give it a little extra strength(as advised by TallPaul) and the strengthening plate that is welded to the inner sill that holds the captive nut for the subframe Y bracket, Ive used 2mm for that. Ive used 1.2mm for the majority because its pretty close to most of the origanal metal thickness and its about the thinnest stuff I can weld decently with our welding plants at work. The rear chassis rail looks like 2mm to me but Ive not had to replace any of that.

    Hope that helps a little. Any more questions just ask and Ill do my best to help.

  11. #271
    Guest CillianS14a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post
    All of the new pieces Ive fabricated are made in 1.2mm mild steel. The only pieces that are different is the B pillar base and Ive used 1.6mm for that to give it a little extra strength(as advised by TallPaul) and the strengthening plate that is welded to the inner sill that holds the captive nut for the subframe Y bracket, Ive used 2mm for that. Ive used 1.2mm for the majority because its pretty close to most of the origanal metal thickness and its about the thinnest stuff I can weld decently with our welding plants at work. The rear chassis rail looks like 2mm to me but Ive not had to replace any of that.

    Hope that helps a little. Any more questions just ask and Ill do my best to help.
    Yeah its the part where the captive nut is where mine has rotted, i think the fella said to me he'll be using 1.5 mil to weld over it. My chasis rail is fine, same as yours so thats good. The only concern now is having to rejoin the inner and outter sills back together but i reckon it won't be too bad to do.
    Thanks for the help!

  12. #272
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    hey guys were cn i get one of those car body jig things, i weely want one lol

  13. #273
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I am mega impressed with the work that’s going into this Makes my refurb look like a wash and wax Keep at it, I might have some questions / comments or maybe a bit of advice later down the line. Fantastic job though… mucho respect!!!!
    Pete


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  14. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    I am mega impressed with the work that’s going into this Makes my refurb look like a wash and wax Keep at it, I might have some questions / comments or maybe a bit of advice later down the line. Fantastic job though… mucho respect!!!!
    It is very impressive work, and /\/\/\/\/\ coming from Petrol says it all. Well done to ya.

  15. #275
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    I am mega impressed with the work that’s going into this Makes my refurb look like a wash and wax Keep at it, I might have some questions / comments or maybe a bit of advice later down the line. Fantastic job though… mucho respect!!!!
    To have comments like this from some one who is so respected as you makes me Your s14a refurb thread gave me the inspiration to have a go at this and Ive gone back to it many times to get advice and inspiration and to see how you have done things..

    All comments are very welcome good or bad, its part of the learning process in my eyes and may point out things to me that Ive missed, done wrong or could improve upon.

    As with comments, question are very welcome too. I am a sheet metal worker and engineer not a car restorer so I can only give advice from my experiences but I will always do my best to help.

  16. #276
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by interloper393 View Post
    hey guys were cn i get one of those car body jig things, i weely want one lol
    I made mine so dont know where to buy one from. I bet they arent cheap either.

  17. #277
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Todays update.

    I welded in the new inner sill section today. The welds arent pretty but they have done thier job, its all very solid again now.







    All thats left to do is treat the welds with HYDRATE 80 and then give them a a couple of coats of ELECTROX primer.

  18. #278
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    good work dude but you do know you can get rust removing gels/liquids
    dynax s50 has uber long tube on a large spraycan and 360 end

    thats what i use on my sill's
    check out petrol's thread, allough im sure you have seen it seeing as your going to these lengths

  19. #279
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spice_weazle View Post

    All thats left to do is treat the welds with HYDRATE 80 and then give them a a couple of coats of ELECTROX primer.
    My first bit of advice Get the wire brush on those welds before you even think about applying anything I know little about HYDRATE 80.... Can you tell me what it's supposed to do please?

    The reason I suggest wire brushing welds is that the heat creates "instant corrosion" Ever noticed how cars corrode around the spot welds?

    Keep up the good work

    P
    Pete


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  20. #280
    Guest spice_weazle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by super_woody View Post
    good work dude but you do know you can get rust removing gels/liquids
    dynax s50 has uber long tube on a large spraycan and 360 end

    thats what i use on my sill's
    check out petrol's thread, allough im sure you have seen it seeing as your going to these lengths
    I have used Bilt Hambers rust removal gel(DEOX-GEL) on parts of the project already but after talking to one of Bilt Hambers tech blokes I decided that its was better to not use it inside the chassis rail because with these sort of gels you have to remove all of it after treatment otherwise it can actually promote corrosion in some cases if not fully removed. It would of been extremely hard to get all the gel out after its done its thing because access isnt great in the chassis rail. So It was decided that it would be better to remove as mush rust as pos using blasting/wirebrushing and then treat it with HYDRATE 80....

    The rust removal liquids only really work if the piece being treated is fully immersed in a bath of the solution, again not really possible in this situation...

    DYNAX S50 is a rust prevention/treatment wax (Bilt Hambers version of wax oil, only better looking at the tests Petrol did on his s14a) and not a rust removal treatment. All box sections ect will be given a good coat of it once the shell has been fully painted. It will be the last thing I do to it before I start to bolt bits back on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    My first bit of advice Get the wire brush on those welds before you even think about applying anything I know little about HYDRATE 80.... Can you tell me what it's supposed to do please?

    The reason I suggest wire brushing welds is that the heat creates "instant corrosion" Ever noticed how cars corrode around the spot welds?

    Keep up the good work

    P
    Yep I always give any welds a wire brush before treating them to remove any rust or paint that has been loosened whilst welding.

    HYDRATE 80 is Bilt Hambers version of Kurrust. The way I understand it after talking to one of thier tech guys is it nutrualizes any remaining rust using some kind of acidic/chemical reaction and also seals the metal to help prevent water and oxygen starting/continuing the rusting proccess again, it will also activate on rust free metal too giving protection. It even says on the data sheet that it doesnt need top coating as it will protect the metal on its own but its worth painting over for added protection.

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