Was wondering how to get round the actuator line today and had an idea. Doesn't happen very often
Came up with this:-
The valve of an alloy with the 'bits' removed.
What do you think?
Was wondering how to get round the actuator line today and had an idea
Came up with this:-
The valve of an alloy with the 'bits' removed.
What do you think?
Yea why not, but most people use the nipple on the TB without any issues
Good idea
very good thinking.
that's a good idea
I used the nipple from the T25 and tapped a thread on the other black pipe. works a treatin fact it's just the same of your idea hehe
I like that, really good. Excellent and will be plaigiarised immediately..... only thing now is to find out where I can get a single metal valve !
quick question and completely unrelated to the purpose of the topic - but where have you found L shaped wheel valve stems? i'm struggling.
good idea though
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits- RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
Why not just buy a boost nipple from Apex and put it in one of the hot pipe hoses
Originally Posted by Rochester
Got them off ebay.quick question and completely unrelated to the purpose of the topic - but where have you found L shaped wheel valve stems? i'm struggling.
good idea though
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOP-QUALITY-CH...3A1%7C294%3A50
Cheaper to buy from Ebay and more sturdy.Why not just buy a boost nipple from Apex and put it in one of the hot pipe hoses
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