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Thread: Speedo probs.

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    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    Speedo probs.

    I know I know there are loads of threads...
    But I've done a search and can't find the answer.

    My speedo is working intermittantly, pretty sure it'll be a dry solder joint as the mileometer works even when the speedo doesn't so the clock cluster is getting the signal.

    Has anyone actually resoldered their dash and fixed it?
    Or could it be loose plug etc?

  2. #2
    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    Did u actually read any of my posts

    Yeah intermittant speedo failure is usually the clocks needing re-soldered, well not the clocks, but the chip on the back of the clocks.

    Kev
    Member no. 31 Project Purplyness
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    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Kev
    Did u actually read any of my posts

    Yeah intermittant speedo failure is usually the clocks needing re-soldered, well not the clocks, but the chip on the back of the clocks.

    Kev
    Just the man.
    Right ok, so I just kinda need to blitz it all?

    I read that you might have done a proper write up on it, did you or is it just the removing the cluster that you did.

    Do you know how fecking annoying this is cos I've just sold my working clocks to Mr Warren for measly £10!!!

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    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    Yeah i was just thinking that.
    Serves u right for being lazy.
    Told u to strip it as i/he was only needing the motor.

    Once u have the dash in ur hands u unclip the front bit, glass first if u like, then the actual plastic.
    Ull see 4 screws in a sort of diamond shape on the back of the clocks (u dont need front off to see them) and possibly one in the top left corner, unscrew them all and the speedo part will be falling out, held in only by the wire that goes to the motor for the mileometer.

    Ull now have the speedo in ur hands.
    turn it over and ull see the chip at the top, and look for dj's on it, oh and typical nissan, its double sided pcb so get the solder flowing well.

    Kev

    Ps. just found a set of clocks in me room, u want pics?

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    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    blow by blow

    Removal of dash

    1. Open door and remove sill plate held down with plastic screws (Try to use the best fitting screwdriver as the screws are easily chewed).
    2. Remove the kick panel with fuse cover it has 1 plastic screw in line with the sill plate half way up the door frame, 1 screw at the back beside the accelerator and one screw that is sunk in slightly at the front, then wiggle it out.
    3. Using a large pozidrive screwdriver remove all 7 screws from the bottom panel (the one with the bonnet pull). There are 2 at the front left, 1 at rear left, 3 at front right and one at rear right which is now exposed by removing the kick panel with the fuse cover.
    4. Remove the two screws holding the bonnet pull on and remove the panel. ( If you prefer you can leave this attached. It just means you won't be able to remove the panel).
    5. Pull down the steering wheel height adjuster and leave it at its lowest position.
    6. Remove the two screws inserted diagonally upwards securing the top of the dash cover.
    7. Unclip the bottom of the dash cover and pull forward slightly.
    8. Now either reach in behind and push out all the switches (hazards, demister, pop-ups, fogs, dimmer and rear wash wipe) or just grab them and pull, they won't break.
    9. Disconnect them from there wiring by the small clips on the back of each of the connectors. Don't worry, the connectors are idiot proof, i.e. u can't re-connect them to the wrong switch.
    The order is
    top left- hazards
    bottom left- demister
    top right- pop-ups
    bottom right- fog lights
    left middle- wash wipe
    right middle- dash dimmer
    10. Remove the top cowl of the steering column. It has 4 screws and the last one is only accessible if the steering wheel height adjuster is down. When all screws are removed the top cowl should unclip. You will probably find that you will have to take out the keys from the ignition and catch the small plastic dust cover that covers the barrel.
    11. Now remove the dash cover by pulling it down towards the ignition, this will free it from the top of the dash, and it should just wiggle out after that.
    12. You are now looking at the dash board unit.
    13. Remove the three screws that face you, one at the top and one on either side at the bottom.
    14. Now pull the dash out slightly and rotate it around a quarter of a turn by pulling the bottom out a bit and pushing the top back. This should allow u to get into the three connector blocks and unplug them by pressing the tab that sticks out on top of them. The one nearest the centre console tends to be stiffer that the other two and also a bit harder to get to (typical).
    15. The dash should now be free but you have to take it out very slowly. If it feels as if it is jamming don't force it because you risk breaking the glass (plastic) front. Just rotate it a bit more and pull it out at the corner nearest the door. You should then be able to slide it out between the dash and the steering wheel.

    Resoldering

    16. When u have the dash in ur hands, unclip the front plastic including the dash surround and remove it exposing the clocks themselves, then unscrew the 4 screws holding the speedo in and disconnect the wire for the motor for the mileometer and it will fall out.
    Now u will see the chip to be soldered.
    17. Look closely at where the chip is soldered in and you will probably see small circles in the silver of the solder. These are called dry joints and they need to be resoldered.
    18. If you are not sure how to do this find someone who is, or take it to a TV and video repair place and they will resolder it for you. It is a five minute job so shouldn't cost much.

    Refitting

    19. Re-fitting is a reverse of removal with the following points to note.
    20. When fitting the dash in a bit of wiggling will be required. It usually takes longer to refit than remove.
    21. When fitting the dash cover, locate it into the top first then negotiate the bottom. You will find that the small vents on either side of the steering column are a problem, reach up behind the cover as you push it into place and you will be able to guide them into place.
    22. Thatís it.

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    You're a star.
    Cheers Kev.

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    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    NP
    Member no. 31 Project Purplyness
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    Oh pics. Yes, for the benefit of otyhers you understand.
    Should then be added to the FAQ on the SXOC homepage.

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    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    k, what off exactly?
    done loads of pics of taking all apart b4, was on a turbo pete thread i think
    only thing i aint done pics of is the actual clock removal, but its really simple Jezz mate.

    the thread, pics are at the bottom end:-

    http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...t=dash+removal

    Kev

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    K cool, I'll fix mine and take pics of the bits I solder then stick something together.

  11. #11
    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    i got a spare clock here btw if u want the speedo out of it?
    Member no. 31 Project Purplyness
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  12. #12
    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Kev
    i got a spare clock here btw if u want the speedo out of it?
    I'm sure it's just a dry joint, but if I feck it up I'll let you know, cheers.

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    SPEEDO PROBS

    THANKS EVERYONE I WILL START TO INVESTIGATE AND HOPEFULLY GET IT WORKING.

    CHEERS

    STREET RACER

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    Unhappy

    a quick question..... my dash has been playing up for a while now, started off with the speedo reading wrong, then it stopped working... then it started working again, the temp guage was playing up, now the problem has moved on to the speedo, which now seems to read very roughly half what it should..

    i got the dash out & in peices and i cant seem to see and dry joints.... any help please?? checked the earth etc etc and it all seems ok, as i said all the joins seem to be ok

    Any help appreciated thanks


    Jason

  15. #15
    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    not being funny jason, but do u know how to solder, and have u seen dj's b4 mate?

    also worth checking ur ecu plug is tight to the ecu, and that the plug above the ecu plug is tight as its this that goes to the dash instruments
    Member no. 31 Project Purplyness
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    im no electritian, but i think soldering is not beyond my capabilities...

    even so im taking it to an electritians anyway so they can have a look at if for me

    where does it plug into the ecu kev?? as i got an omex ecu ill have to look elsewhere for this

    thnkas

    Jason

  17. #17
    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    electrician wont know too much bout solderingh components mate, seriously, its an electronics engineer u want.
    and it was more a case of do u know what a dry joint looks like tbh mate.
    anyway passenger kickwell, remove the panel and ur greeted by the ecu
    Member no. 31 Project Purplyness
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    Its sorted now, wasnt a problem with the instument panel after all


    one more thing... has anyone got a picture of the back of the instrument panel?? ie where all the bulbs go?? its all back together and 2 of the dash lights are not working, i need to check to see if i got all the bulbs in the right place...

    also, should the fuel warning light come on like all the other warning lights when the ignition is turned on??

  19. #19
    Guest shadow21's Avatar
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    Have this problem (speedo working when it wants...)
    In my case, it comes from the speed sensor (plugged into the gearbox), and NOT from a dry joint.
    The little bit of plastic at the end of it (don't know the name in English, sorry...) is broke: sometimes it catches, sometimes not...
    Too much in debt now to buy a new sender...

  20. #20
    Rep type thing Kev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason
    Its sorted now, wasnt a problem with the instument panel after all


    one more thing... has anyone got a picture of the back of the instrument panel?? ie where all the bulbs go?? its all back together and 2 of the dash lights are not working, i need to check to see if i got all the bulbs in the right place...

    also, should the fuel warning light come on like all the other warning lights when the ignition is turned on??

    no pics im afraid but u should have 3 large ones for main illumination, then two smaller ones at the corners, just above the instrument rows.
    Ur fuel low light should not come on at ignition
    Member no. 31 Project Purplyness
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