Hi guys
I've got a 2000W amp with 4 12inch 500W subs and a 1000W amp with 4 6x9's that i want to fit.Will i need a new battery to run it all?
Hi guys
I've got a 2000W amp with 4 12inch 500W subs and a 1000W amp with 4 6x9's that i want to fit.Will i need a new battery to run it all?
What amps? Unless they are very high quality, i'd be very surprised if those werent over inflated peak power figures - you need to find out what the amps pull in terms of RMS power
You shouldn't need a new battery - split charging is an expensive game!
However, 4 6 by 9's and 4 12" subs does not sound like an advisable setup to me. i'd be ditching the whole lot and buying 1 decent sub and 1 set of speakers that will blow that lot out of the water
Last edited by Si; 22-09-2008 at 11:20.
Kinda like the thought of a nice big setup.Plus it looks good
Glad i dont need a new battery.Was dreading the thought of having to get that done.Just thought it'd draw too much power if it was connected to the main battery.
OK, if the point of having a stereo to you is for it to look good, then cool, each to their own as they say
Find out what the amps put out RMS and post it up, then we can take it from there
Nothing to add other than to reinforce what si said, why add all that, adding weight, and stressing the alternator/battery when a smaller setup will be alot better.
but RMS is the figure, peak power could be any number plucked from the air x 3 and add in a bit of pub factor
put up the model numbers too, i'd be interested in what power they are pulling ot give those report figures, and their heat output
cos you'll have to match or better the current draw and fuses (please tell me you have thought about inline fuses) to protect the amps and your car, also airflow round the amps to stop them from over heating.
also what head unit are you running this all from?
where are you mouting all the speakers etc, definition will be crap, and you'll have little or now sound stage, it will be a mess of noise
i cant stress how much you really need ot re-think your plans, i could make an amazing steup, that also looks fantastic with alot less than your putting in.
my last serious setup was
2 x infinity reference 6.5 in components in the front, 2 x 8 inch pioneer mids in the rear, 2 600wRMS Atomic subs in the boot, all amped individually and correctly, the Subs had a over powered D class amp (tweeter hap a 10wRMS alpine amp)
i got approx 142db, (blew a couple of fuses on the test, it was its first full power shake down) with a SQ that was amazing
all this being run by a Headunit and a spearate GEQ
Also interested in the make and model numbers as what has been said above sounds like bullshite amps.
Also, good luck fitting 4 12" subs in the boot with the correct amount of cubic fottage for the boxes
max power 2 ohms: 500W X 4
rms power 4ohms: 220W X 4
Canty find the spec for th e other one on the net at the mo.
Sony M8800 headunit.
THey're not all goin in the boot.The back seats are coming out
I know im prob being childish but a just love a nice big setup.
My last car had 3 subs and 4 6x9's and sounded great
That's a pretty meaty amp! What is it if you don't mine me asking?
What impedance are you driving the subs at? as that will make a difference to the current draw and how hot the amps run
Its one i found on ebay and my friend had one already and belts out bass.
Its a Soundstorm F4500.Cheap but does the job very well.
Here's alink fo rthe specs http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/carau...roductID=16731
Picked it up for only 75 quid
Still think i can manage it on a single battery?
Plan is to have the speakers in the back and the amps and wiring in the boot.Course it can change of course
You'll be fine - if that outputs a genuine 220w x 4 I'll eat my shoes
Such is the dream anyway
i would recomend possibly installing a power cap, 1 farrad should do the job, i ran 2 x inffinity 5" compents, decent pioneer 6x9's, 1000w 12" pionneer sub and an 800w monoblock amp, and with out the power cap on high volume my lights dimmed to the beat
Unfortunately, power caps are band aids and snake oil - Waste of money imhoOriginally Posted by Kiz
i would recomend possibly installing a power cap, 1 farrad should do the job, i ran 2 x inffinity 5" compents, decent pioneer 6x9's, 1000w 12" pionneer sub and an 800w monoblock amp, and with out the power cap on high volume my lights dimmed to the beat
all they do is stop dimming at that moment in time post that big 'hit', supply, and ergo clarity, will suffer.
In a nutshell:
Amp requires big current, which can't be supplied by normal supply.
Power cap boosts supply temporarily, alternator isn't strained.
In ensuing moments, power cap needs to be charged up - as well as the amp being driven, then the power cap also draws current from the alt and battery.
If you are in the situation where a power cap has a tangible effect, you really should be looking at upgrading firstly your wiring (to the amp, as well as all the earths in the bay - start with 'the big three') with better cable, and if that doesn't help, then split charge or a more powerful alternator.
Hope that helps
in the audio world power caps are not reconised as such, i have used power caps before and they can help, but its sort of hiding a problem, and if not correctly installed they can be bloody dangerous.i would recomend possibly installing a power cap, 1 farrad should do the job, i ran 2 x inffinity 5" compents, decent pioneer 6x9's, 1000w 12" pionneer sub and an 800w monoblock amp, and with out the power cap on high volume my lights dimmed to the beat
its personal preference, a high capacity battery, with a upgrade on the alternator with split charging is the best way.
use a split charger from a caravan setup
beat me to it
if you want ot see what im talking about short out a 1 farrad power cap, be far away from it first, IMO it should be classed as a bomb
James,
Can you get a list of makes and models of your whole setup, speaker, subs etc
i know you've got one on here and your Headunit
Proposed set up is:
4 x JBL CS-12 Subs with the Soundstorm F4500 amp
4x JBL GTO937 6x9's with a 1000W DXR XR 255 amp
Want to stay away from power caps as i've seen entire cars go up in smoke over them.
Specification
JBL CS12 Subs
http://www.caraudioplus.co.uk/Subwoo.../Compatibility
12" subwoofer
• Peak Power Handling- 500W
• RMS Power Handling- 125W
• Frequency Response- 38Hz – 800Hz
• Sensitivity (2.83V/1m)- 92dB
• Impedance- 4 ohms
• Cutout Diameter- 277mm
• Mounting Depth- 127mm Thiele and Small Parameters
• Revc- 3.58 ohms
• VAS- 144L
• Qts- 0.39
• Fs- 24.7Hz
• Qes- 0.41
• Qms- 7.34
• Mms- 119g
• Levc- 2.3mH
JBL GTO937 6x9's
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/prod...checkproduct=y
Warranty One Year
General
Power Handling, RMS 100 Watts
Power Handling, Peak 300 Watts
Frequency Response (±3dB) 50Hz-21kHz
Sensitivity 94dB
Mounting Depth 2-15/16" (75mm)
Cut-Out Diameter 8-11/16" x 5-7/8" (151mm x 221mm)
Impedance 2 Ohms
Last edited by Monkey; 22-09-2008 at 13:30.
Just to add to this...make sure you've got really meaty power and earth cables and get a decent fuse to go in straight after the battery.
Ignore me if you already know this, its just people sometimes forget about the cables and their cars go up in smoke because they get too hot and melt. Dont get those rubbish complete kits with weedy power cables and sh*tty little fuses.
Just my 2p
i was just about to comment on this my self,Just to add to this...make sure you've got really meaty power and earth cables and get a decent fuse to go in straight after the battery.
Ignore me if you already know this, its just people sometimes forget about the cables and their cars go up in smoke because they get too hot and melt. Dont get those rubbish complete kits with weedy power cables and sh*tty little fuses.
Just my 2p
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