Just as well you said that about the complete kits cos i was just about to order them.Whast the alternative?
Just as well you said that about the complete kits cos i was just about to order them.Whast the alternative?
Soundstorm F4500 amp spec
http://www.soundstormlab.com/support...wnloaditemid=4
you need to get the wiring that matches the ammount of current your going to draw, or better, with at least 1 fuse with in 300mm (cable length) of the battery and 1 fues 300mm (cable length) of the ampOriginally Posted by jamesd
the ground will be the exact same size of the power cable and no longer than 300mm
do not have the power cable coiled, IMO you can not have too many fuses
i had
1 at the battery
IIRC
2 when i split the cable from 0AWG to 2AWG then 1 per cable half way along the length, then another distribution block to 4 4AWG cables each with a fuse (2 per 2AWG) then to the amp
lots of fuses
Bloody hell Monkey!!!!!!!
Thats a serious amount of wiring.
Where did you get the gear for that?
Also looking at the specs do you think i have to do the battery and alternator upgrade?
IIRC my power cable is 2 gauge...i would suggest at least that, or even better 0 gauge.
As you can see from this pic of mine, it's a pretty beefy cable.
Its not cheap mind you...
I got it all from my local car audio shop, all correct lengths + 2m (just in case i got my lengths wrong) i paid alot of money ofr it all IIRC the cabeling, connectors and fuses were about £200-250ish, that included RCA's etc
the good thing with having inline fuses is that you can remove a section of cable with out taking the lot out, it acts as a (safesih) brake in the cable, so if your lucky the shop might have 2m off cuts and will sell to you for cheaper than off the roll
yes a upgraded battery and alternator would be the best move, as well as a second battery,
if your are certain to run all those speakers, but i cant help thinking that your going to burn out the amps (the speakers wanting more power than the amps can cope with) way before you blow any speakers, your amps are going ot be running very hot, and possibly in Clipping mode (google it) 90% of the time
you really need better amps, mainly the one for the subs, or a very good fire extinguisher
Oh and you'll greatly benefit from upgrading the cables on your alternator to the same gauge.
I haven't...but then i'm not pushing anything like that amount of wattage.
So should i just run 2 subs with a different 1000W amp instead and get rid of the other 2 and the 2000w amp?
Would the power upgrades still need to be done?
you dont "need" a 1000w amp, you need a minimum 300wRMS amp, different thing
look at the alpine MRD 30x series
this is the latest one
http://www.incarexpress.co.uk/view_p...partno=MRDM301
shop around probably get it cheaper, it was the first return from google
a proper D speck amp meaning its made specifically for Bass/Subs, not like the 4 channels you speced, run your subs at 2ohms and tun the gain down and you'll get a 100 x better bass response, sound etc than 4 subs with the other amp
Last edited by Monkey; 22-09-2008 at 15:36.
James,
what do you want ot acheive, what is your brief with this system?
what have you bought already?
how much do you want to spend?
what car is it for?
Very very doubtfull if it's really going to put out 4x 220w, i'd be wary of it going on fire, seen it happen before with a '2000w' amp AKA a pile of shite!Its one i found on ebay and my friend had one already and belts out bass.
Its a Soundstorm F4500.Cheap but does the job very well.
Here's alink fo rthe specs http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/carau...roductID=16731
Picked it up for only 75 quid
Still think i can manage it on a single battery?
Plan is to have the speakers in the back and the amps and wiring in the boot.Course it can change of course
Make it a pair of welliesYou'll be fine - if that outputs a genuine 220w x 4 I'll eat my shoesSo I doubt it will draw much current at all
Why not just wire up your own split charge system
eh??Why not just wire up your own split charge system
thats what i was saying, but you need to up grade the alternator to cope with the extra ampage, you'll kill a battery in 5 mins flat with a standard alternator with a "large" system
the easiset way is as i said getting a split charging setup for a caravan (from somewhere that fits tow bars) as you know it will work.
Well i have all the stuff already but not too worried bout getting rid of that amp if its going to kill my car.Tha car is gonna be my project.Its my wedding present to meI want it to be a head turner and have seen g uys round cork with huge systems but nothing really done to the wiring.But from what you've said bout the amp i'm thinking that i may neeed to rethink the subs.Maybe just run 2 from a decent amp and get rid of the other one.Where would i get an alternator upgrade?Are they expensive?
Money is kind of a an issue as i dont have that much to spend (wedding) hence the ebay amp thing
ok thats cool,
monkey is not too big of an issue as you can build the system up over time, and do upgrades when you have the cash. you dont even have ot fit it now, you could wait till you have everythnig.
the first thing i would get the cableing sorted first, and put it in with out connecting it to the battery, you could make a small feature out it if,. ie lighting up the fuse holders with a LED and having it connected ot the fuse, so if it blows the LED turns off and you can easily see it, and it would look cool
But wouldnt i have to do the alternator upgrade before i run anything on it?
Will you be running any power invertors in the car? ie. 12v to 240v?
It aldepends,
what i would do in order
work out exactley what you want to do, how many speakers, how many amps etc and locations.
get all wiring, power cableing, RCA's speaker wiring, Fuses and fuse holder, plus all connectors, work out what you want where
make sure you have 1 extra power cable going to the boot. ie if you have 3 amps, put 4 power cables in and make safe just in case.
run the thickest cable to the boot, with 1 fuse 300mm from battery (cable length) fixed and down one side of the car, put another Fuse half way along,
Run all RCA's and speaker cables the other side of car, dont run any cables (including power) along the transmission tunnel
end that cable at a distribution block that is fused,
for instance 1 0AWG going fused dist' block to 2 2AWG to 2 fused dist' blocks going to 4 4AWG cables
Earht to be no longer than 300mm and no smaller that 4AWG per amp, make sure the earthing poit is contaminent free (no paint etc) and sturdy, you can put these ot a non fused dist block, going to either 2 2AWG earths or 1 0AWG earth
run 2 x speaker cabling per door (trust me)
fit 1 amp to power just speakers (Mids and tweeters) drive for a month or so and set up correctly, so it sounds good, check how much current draw is on the ower cabeling on full power (volume turned up to 11) then see how much you current Battery/alternator will dish out
the Decide how many subs/amps you'll need
and repeat amp fitting and testing, if it wants ot draw more power than the alternator can cope, or with in 20% of its maximum, upgrade both battey and alternator, iff need be put a second battey and split charger in from a caravan setup.
enjoy
Last edited by Monkey; 23-09-2008 at 12:54.
or just get a caravan
Who is the amplifier vendor?
A lot of the mainstream amplifier "manufacturers" have their amps made for them from companies in Korea. You'd be surprised how many amps from different manufacturers share the same internals - and none of them will output what they are rated at because the internal power supplies aren't up to the job.
Alpine for 1 rate their amps at 12V and 14.4V, yet most car systems work at ~13.8V when the engine is running.
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