Damn youOriginally Posted by jon200
ooooh oooh ooh 1000'th post
At least I get 1000th reply....
EDIT: And if this wasn't random filling to get 1000th, I don't know what is!
Your finger will slow you down a fair bit i suspect. I always do damage to myself when i am out on the car
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
I'm pretty sure it'll be fine. Only problem I can see is that you may have to get the wing mirror extensions that people use for caravans
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
For the tow car or the track carOnly problem I can see is that you may have to get the wing mirror extensions that people use for caravans
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
Ha ha, bothFor the tow car or the track car
1998 Nissan 200sx s14a , 2000 std 5 speed with nismo supercoppermix clutch bn6 Sapphire Blue
Seriously, I have some concerns over whether the prerequisite areas will be visible through the wing mirrors without them being on 12" stalksHa ha, both
Weirdly I don't have to have a rear view, but only if having a rear view would not provide any useful view.
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
I wouldnt recommend using a caravan chassis - flimsy as fcuk from past experience in the field. Using the axles from your local gyppo site caravans is a good start though.
Theres a guy at the end of my road that makes trailers etc, will snap a few for comparison for you
Cheers Mel
I think the suggestion was more that I might need some massive wing mirrors to see past a trailer wide enough to take my project
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
you'll struggle to get a car transporter trailer with a usuable bed width of more than 6'1", although their are a few 6'4". this is generally due to the majority of race trailers having the wheels outside the bed width. this leave s the bed height nice and low for low, race cars.
if thats too tight for your beastie, most manufacturers do beavertails with the wheels under the bed istelf. even using dinky 10" wheels on the beavertails it does raise the load height a fair bit, which has an effect on the towing. not a problem behind a big 4x4 or LWB van, but hard work with even a big car. means you may have to tow at or below the speed limit (perish the thought
look for Brain James, PRG, Woodford, Brenderup etc for ideas.
An idea that has been kicking around in my head for ages (it may already exist, or I may be doing myself out of another £1,000,000 idea) is a small collapsible trailer, that picks up on the car at the four jacking points. You'd put the frame under the car. Adjust it to fit. Attache the 2 wheels (one either side) ,pump up a jacking mechanism on each stub axle and lock with a pin. The tow point would then run under the towed car to the front to attach to the tow vehicle.
The only thing I hadn't got my head round is securing the car to the base.
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
Straps over the car, like a strap on skate shoe
Well, I suppose if it was custom made for a car, you could bolt it through...Straps over the car, like a strap on skate shoe
... in fact, there's a though. All I really need is a pair of wheels and a tow hitch that bolt onto the chassis.
I'll get it built first though.
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
What a crap, frustrating evening. I need to be able to move the car out of the garage by the end of the week, as my sparky friend is coming to install a CU in the garage and give it all a ticket.
It really bugs me when you "have" to get something done, with a deadline, as you can guarantee that's when it'll all go pear shaped. As already said. I systematically replicate the parts, left and right. I'll measure up on one side, make the piece, and if it fits, I'll copy that piece an use the copy on the other. This is as opposed to measuring the left and making a piece, then measuronig the right, and making a piece. This has worked without problem until tonight. I suppose you might say that in fact it worked tonight, too, as to have done the other method. Well..
So, I've spaced out the rear arches at the front, so that they are fully supported by the shell. Come to do the rear. Make two pieces. Puyt in the first piece, with the super 5 min sticks to anything crap, faff around and come to put the second piece in. Doesn't fit. Not even close. It's 20mm too big. Bugger.
So I do lots of measuring, fearing the worst, that the whole thing's on the piss. Weirdly, the upper areas of the rear: top of the boot, C pillars, glass frames, they all tally up with the arche extensions and the chassis
The bottom half tells a different story. There's not much chassis back there, but the arch extensions are vertical pieces of 18mm MDF and I know they're true at the top, relative to all things, so they must be OK at the bottom.
Picking up the pin stripe on the bumper, I find my missing millimetres. The whole rear is skewed. And the 5 min super sticky crap has stuckReciprocating saw to the rescue. So I undo all the supporting bolts, hit things with hammers and push like hell. Now it's all straight. Phew.
Too annoyed to do any more, and certainly too pissed off to have taken any photos, but the good news, I suppose, is that the problem has been identified and corrected, and that my methods have proven themselves. My biggest fear was that having worked from front to rear (and probably if I'm honest committed too much at one end before the other even had panels on it) that a small error up front of a few mm (acceptable tollerances) had turned into something much worse and that the whole shebang was twisted.
And after all that, the car can be moved, even without the rear halves of the rear arch extensions secured to the main shell.
Last edited by Jesus-Ninja; 26-01-2009 at 20:49.
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
At least you found the problem before you had gone too far
keep your chin up mate, things always go a little pear shaped from time to time, trust me mine has gone far from smooth, hence the lack of updates lately lol,
just think how awsome its going to be when finished,
just think how awsome its going to be when finished,Cheers folksAt least you found the problem before you had gone too far
Yeah, there was a moment when I changed the target from "make it movable tonight" to "work out why the whole thing is on the piss and then go to bed". I am glad I found it though. If I'm honest, I'd had my suspicions about it for a while, and it's good to know that it's all straight now.
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
Well, I suppose if it was custom made for a car, you could bolt it through...
... in fact, there's a though. All I really need is a pair of wheels and a tow hitch that bolt onto the chassis.
I'll get it built first though.
Or two pairs to make it a full lift...
I was thinking about this today. The issue I can see with it is that the suspension will be hanging on full droop. Less than ideal.
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
Not if you strap/bolt/plate them in place whilst the car is down.
You could always take the wheels off as well for extra clearance, but bear in mind that would take more time, and take up space. Don't forget that with your coil-overs on, "full droop" isn't actually that much.
Well done on admitting to yourself that there was a problem, and sorting it then and there. Ignoring it would have seen problems down the line. You did the right thing!
Last edited by Scougar; 27-01-2009 at 13:25.
True, but unless the trailer wheels had shock/springs, the car would get all the road shock transmitted through the body from the trailer. That and the car's suspension would bounce around and be subject to different loading. Could be disaster. a-fram sounds better, if I could link it into the brakes somehow.....
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
Just seen this link from MEL, very useful and inspiring stuff : http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/t...1&t=526032&i=0
Where ever you go, never take an idiot with you. You can be sure you'll find one when you get there.
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