Although, after another look, it could be overspray- maybe from primer? In all honesty, without seeing the car in person, we're just guessing at the problem. Have you taken it back to whoever painted it & asked them?
Although, after another look, it could be overspray- maybe from primer? In all honesty, without seeing the car in person, we're just guessing at the problem. Have you taken it back to whoever painted it & asked them?
As i say i have now attacked a few of the worse pannels and its 100% come out, its like new i've now waxed it alot to try and seal the pannel.
When the whole car is done i will get some pictures up of it, but because i'm not as wel trained as most with the polisher progress is slow as i don't want to go too far
Any tips on using the polisher would be good
Its a fresh import, i just got the car like this, it don't look like its had any paint on this car, but it was progressivly worse towards the back of the car, so and its soft black bits, i can squash them with my nail, when removed they leave brown mark which polish out.Originally Posted by tallpaul
clarkey.
Stay away from the edges of the panels, feel the panel regularly to make sure its not getting too hot, and take your time!Any tips on using the polisher would be good
Sounds like road tar to me. I'd try a good soaking with degreaser again. Use a well soaked rag & let the tar really absorb the solvent. Do a 1/4 of a panel at a time.
I noticed you can hear the speed change on the polisher when it starts to "grab" so i just keep adding a little water every few passes.
I did go through a little on the bumper edge, i saw the color chage slightly to a grey, and backed off.. luckly it was under the bumper so leasson learnt
I just bought a large tub of degreaser yesterday, i will try this today, would you recomend clay baring after soaking it ? then the polishing.
clarkey.
You can clay it again, but obviously everything you rub over the paint (clay, compound, polish etc) will take a layer of paint off- there's no going back if you burn through. Give it a good soaking with the degreaser, then it may only need a very light (i.e. less aggressive) polish.
Is it worth trying to polish the car before i cut it, basicly only cut the areas that need it ?
or just give it a quick skim everywere with the G3.
Your using a rotary with G3 on single stage paint?
Be REALLY careful mate... I have seen 20um + being removed quickly using this method on single stage paint and its not a pretty sight.
Did you not use the aggresive clay bar like I advised before taking the machine to the paintwork?
... as I have said to people before when it comes to rotary machining cars...
START with the LEAST aggressive polish and pad combination and work your way UP to the relevant combination that works.
You have essentially jumped in with the 'big guns' so too speak...
As for using rotary...
- Prime the pad using some detailing spray and running it on a windscreen at lowest speed for 60 seconds...
- Apply four pea sized amounts on circumference of the pad
- On the car switch on rotary at lowest speed and spread the polish out to a 1.5ft-2ft square area...
- Switch speed up to 1100-1500rpm moving the machine slowly keeping the pad flat against the panel work until the polish begins to go clear...
- Then turn the rotary down to slowest speed (about 900rpm imho) and work further to refine finish and remove hologramming, etc
If your not correcting using this method then you can either change the pad / polish combo or increase the correction speed... I run up to about 2000rpm on cerami clearcoat finishes ...
On a single stage colour like yours I'd just use the G10 and practise with different pads / speeds as required.
Hope that helps.
Scott
Everyone talks about G3 and machine polishing as if its a magical cure for all paint faults. It can bring very suprising results to terrible paintwork, but at the same time, it can totally ruin paint that looks totally fine. Personally, I'd try every other avenue before gettin the mop out. Although a machine polish may well be removing the contaminants, it is also removing the top layer of paint, as you discovered on the bumper. Get the degreaser on it, see what happens, then maybe try the G3.
When the machine starts to 'grab' thats because the polish is drying out... thats when you MUST remove it from the paint as the heat generated increases substancially...I noticed you can hear the speed change on the polisher when it starts to "grab" so i just keep adding a little water every few passes.
I did go through a little on the bumper edge, i saw the color chage slightly to a grey, and backed off.. luckly it was under the bumper so leasson learnt
This is why I dont like G3 / G10 as you cant 'feel' what its doing unlike the oily based polishes I use that glide on the paint nicely ...
Try some 3M ultrafina on a 3M blue pad... or for more bite 3M ultra fine cut on 3M black pad... both will break down well and leave an LSP finish
Thanx Scott, i would have tried the more aggressive clay bar but they were out of stock, and i wanted to like get on with the job in hand lol
I will now step away from the G3 and just use the G10 with the polishing pad, i'm being very progressive with my use of the polisher, i'm keeping it moving, and i'm masking up edges to not hurt them
Do you use water on the polishing pad ? or just detailing spray ? because i was wetting it alot like the G3, like really wet.
Thanx for the help.
I have a white 180sx type x (96) and have exactly the same problem. You can polish the bits off, but they come back again and again. Exactly as yours, you can take them off with your nail and they leave a brown smear. I think they are tar. They dont seem to stick to the paint as well if I put plenty of polish on though
Totally agree Paul... I have played with G3 a hell of alot a few years ago and although it has its place I personally find it far too aggressive for fixing paintwork faults - on a newly sprayed car it can be a god send thoughEveryone talks about G3 and machine polishing as if its a magical cure for all paint faults. It can bring very suprising results to terrible paintwork, but at the same time, it can totally ruin paint that looks totally fine. Personally, I'd try every other avenue before gettin the mop out. Although a machine polish may well be removing the contaminants, it is also removing the top layer of paint, as you discovered on the bumper. Get the degreaser on it, see what happens, then maybe try the G3.
Its definately tar thats the problem
BTW only reason i went for the polisher, i cleaned the roof and it took me over 4 hours to polish the black bits out, were it took like 30mins with the polisher.
Yeah, i'm sure its tar marks, but i didn't want to guessI have a white 180sx type x (96) and have exactly the same problem. You can polish the bits off, but they come back again and again. Exactly as yours, you can take them off with your nail and they leave a brown smear. I think they are tar. They dont seem to stick to the paint as well if I put plenty of polish on though
I'm going to invest in some good wax and wax it as much as i can, i normaly clean my cars every other day and polish and wax them every week.
I know to make white look good i must keep on top of it, but this is the fun part of owning a car to me
Try polished bliss then for an aggressive barThanx Scott, i would have tried the more aggressive clay bar but they were out of stock, and i wanted to like get on with the job in hand lol
I will now step away from the G3 and just use the G10 with the polishing pad, i'm being very progressive with my use of the polisher, i'm keeping it moving, and i'm masking up edges to not hurt them
Do you use water on the polishing pad ? or just detailing spray ? because i was wetting it alot like the G3, like really wet.
Thanx for the help.
Nothing wrong with masking edges... I do it myself occasionally when a panel edge isnt quite lined up
G3 likes a lot of water (another reason I hate the stuff on machine as messy) but once I have primed the pad no I dont use any further waterbut then I use polishes that arent designed to be used with water at all
The pad priming is just to stop the polish from sinking into the pad and being absorbed instead of worked into the paint
Thats because you took half the paint off in 30 mins...BTW only reason i went for the polisher, i cleaned the roof and it took me over 4 hours to polish the black bits out, were it took like 30mins with the polisher.
cool, so are you saying, do not use water with the G10, or you don't use water because of the type of polish you use.
How often can i use the machine to polish a car ? every month ? 6 months, 12months ?
once again thanx for your help
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
