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Thread: My Sil80 Project.

  1. #181
    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    No too busy to post LOL

  2. #182
    No, the other one. Pete C's Avatar
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    Awesome that you finally got it on the road! That might just be the best S13 on here now... except mine obviously

    1993 [L] RS13 200SX
    1999 [V] E39 530d
    2001 [Y] MkV Fiesta Zetec S
    SXOC Member #199

  3. #183
    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    Went to a Dyno Day at Jez's today organised by Limitless.
    It was great to see Jez again, it's been a while.

    Anyway, it didn't go too badly; but I'm sure there's another 50 ponies in this turbo.
    Needs to be mapped by someone that knows what they are doing, i.e. not me.

    Dyno-Chart-HDev.jpg
    Last edited by Jezz_S13; 10-03-2019 at 18:56.

  4. #184
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    That's properly impressive, mate

  5. #185
    I <3 BBS LM Actual_Ben_Taylor's Avatar
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    Nice one

  6. #186
    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    So, I've been looking at setting up flat shifting/gear cut using the clutch as a trigger, should I go drag racing to keep the boost up and the shifts fast.
    I had a simple (brake) switch on the pedal but found that i drive with my foot on the pedal, and the little bit of lash in the pedal meant the switch was being activated even though the clutch is engaged, resulting in all sorts of unwanted pops and bangs.
    I stumbled across a post in a FB group where someone said use the fork for more accuracy, so I took it a bit further and got a position sensor and used that, with this i can configure my ECU with the exact point (voltage threshold) the clutch is disengaged. Meaning the gear cut is only active whilst the clutch is disengaged.

    Geeky, but cool.



    cl-pos-01.jpg

    cl-pos-02.jpg

    cl-pos-03.jpg

  7. #187
    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    A bit more geek.
    The fuel pump doesn't need to running full chat all the time, needlessly heating up the fuel and making a load of noise so I've connected and mapped a Jaguar F-Type fuel pump controller (Same used in a few cars XFR, XKR, Aston Martins).
    This takes a PWM signal from the ECU and runs the pump at the required duty for the boost/load demand.

    Straight from the scrappers, 30, there's a place in NZ selling 'reconditioned' ones for ~250
    fuelcont-02.jpg

    Needed some headwork with a scope to work out how it works...
    fuelcont-01.jpg

    And in she goes...
    fuelcont-03.jpg
    Last edited by Jezz_S13; 18-04-2019 at 19:23.

  8. #188
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Great Stuff Jezz, both cool ideas.

    I could actually do with a pump controller too, so you just worked out what it was doing on the pico scope and hooked it up to the relevant relays needed, no actual software changes?

    Can you make me one?
    bstmeetbllk

  9. #189
    committed. Jezz_S13's Avatar
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    The controller is controlled by the ECU (Syvecs in my case), your ECU needs to have a PWM fuel pump strategy and spare TTL (ignition) output; though you can make it work with a normal output but it reverses the duty, ignition outputs are active high, normal outputs go to ground when active. The Jag controller is expecting active high.
    The jag controller is a bit odd.
    It takes a 100hz signal input, and gives a 20kHz output to the pump. The duty of the input signal is roughly doubled, 4% input duty is roughly 8% pump duty, 49% input is ~98% pump. Below 4% or above ~52% input tuns the output/pump off.

    I actually use 2 fuel pump outputs, one to turn on the relay which powers up the controller, and the other to do the PWM control.

    If you could find a device which will take a 5v input and convert that to a PWM signal then you could hook it up to your MAP sensor. This sort of device does exist.


    There's a post (4th from the end) on the page linked below by AlexjC4 which inspired me to check the jag unit out.
    https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...t=916550&i=320

    You could alternatively use a Solid State Relay and diode etc, but I seen some mixed reviews. Consensus seems to be to avoid cheap ones.
    I will probably use one or two SSRs to control my cooling fans, the instantaneous load of the fans starting upsets the idle a bit, so if I can feed them in gradually and at a duty proportional to engine temp then it'd be much better.

  10. #190
    Flamethrower Pablo13's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info, having checked I do seem to have a PWM signal from my stock ECU but its 0 to 5v, no mention of hz. Maybe it would be simpler to get a controller from the original vehicle. Anyway, cheers for shedding light on the subject
    bstmeetbllk

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