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Thread: Flooding sills and chassis to stop rust.

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    Guest John Bennett's Avatar
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    Flooding sills and chassis to stop rust.

    I want to put something liquidy into the sills and chassis rails, rather than leave them bare, as they seem to attract moisture and always manage rust from the inside out .
    Is there anything better that waxoyl that I can get for less that £1000 a tin? Or would I be better pouring a load of castrol GTX into them?

    cheers

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    Guest Egon's Avatar
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    Um, i have a copy of practical classics kicking around somewhere....I'll have a look in that...seem to remember there being a kit for about a ton that should do the job...

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    Bod Jon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Egon View Post
    Um, i have a copy of practical classics kicking around somewhere...
    Me too

    Dinitrol has won their last couple of cavity rustproofing comparing test article things

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    Guest Egon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon View Post
    Me too

    Dinitrol has won their last couple of cavity rustproofing comparing test article things
    Thats the stuff...(mags' in the loo...) there was another one too that you could have as an aerosol or as a compressor based spray..

    EDIT: nope, dinitrol is the stuff....my bad...www.rust.co.uk
    Last edited by Egon; 06-05-2007 at 19:14.

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    Yup dinatrols the stuff, the boss did his Pantera in dinatrol and was happy with the results, the problem with waxoil is if you put too much in, more than just a surface caosting it tends to form into a solid lump and shrink as it dries, leaving not so much protection

  6. #6
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Bennett View Post
    I want to put something liquidy into the sills and chassis rails, rather than leave them bare, as they seem to attract moisture and always manage rust from the inside out .
    Is there anything better that waxoyl that I can get for less that £1000 a tin? Or would I be better pouring a load of castrol GTX into them?

    cheers

    I am doing loads of research on wax injection at the moment If you can hang fire for a while I will be posting loads of stuff up in my "refurb time again" thread. I wouldn't use waxoyl and pouring oil into the box sections is not a good idea.

    A sample of an anti-corrosion wax is being sent to me for assessment, it’s available in aerosols which includes a 60cm cavity injection lance. This offers a high-pressure, finely atomised circular mist ensuring 360 degree coverage of box sections and cavities. The aerosol contains 3/4L. They also sell it in 5L tins though I would think it very difficult to apply 5L of wax injection to a car. My guess is that you are probably looking at around £20 - £30 to do an SX with aerosols
    Pete


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    Bod Jon's Avatar
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    Aah, a mystery product

    In the meantime, I'm happy to point anyone towards Practical Classics' research

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    is Ziebart any good for what you need ???

    or is it just the same as waxoyl

  9. #9
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon View Post
    Aah, a mystery product

    In the meantime, I'm happy to point anyone towards Practical Classics' research
    It's not a mystery product, it's all on the interweb

    Oh and what did Practical Classics' research tell you?
    Pete


    SXOC Member Number : 317

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    Guest John Bennett's Avatar
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    I'm not in such a hurry. having spent last week welding up the sill anyway (it's future proofing - sort of, although I expect to have to weld up the opposite sill within the year anyway, as there's signs of bubbling from the inside).
    You can get at the rear part of the sill via the taped-over holes in the cabin, so there's reasonable access, but the liquid would have to be liquidy enough to leak down to the bottom of the sill once sprayed, coating all the surfaces it passes (I'd imagine wax would stick to whatever it initially hit). I don't think you can cover all the vunerable surfaces with a 360 degree sprayer thingy, as some are overlapped by others (hence my flooding thoughts), particularly the inner and outer sill skins.

  11. #11
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jon View Post
    In the meantime, I'm happy to point anyone towards Practical Classics' research
    Just to add - Journalist write articles for magazines – they know very little about corrosion. They do a quick test and the masses jump on the bandwagon


    Maybe it's best to keep my thoughts to myself
    Pete


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  12. #12
    Bod Jon's Avatar
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    The Practical Classics article seemed to have enough integrity, for me to post the result on the SXOC. What you do with your thoughts is your concern


    I'll dig out the article and stick it up here tomorrow (my home scanner's playing "I don't want to scan")

  13. #13
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    OK, I will keep my thoughts and findings to myself
    Pete


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  14. #14
    Bod Jon's Avatar
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    Proper findings are good Mystery products just confuse the issue.

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    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Love me or hate me.... All I am doing is trying to find a solution to the rust problem..Please don't knock me for that. Jon how many hours have you spent researching this? Zero is my guess - Well I have spent over 40 hours researching the rust problem and the best way to cure it.... Now should I share this information with you?
    Pete


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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    Now should I share this information with you?
    YES!!!!!

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    Bod Jon's Avatar
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    Other than reading a magazine article that I trust, I have personally done no practical rust prevention research, no.

  18. #18
    Guest Smart-Tech's Avatar
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    I have spent too many hours researching products and found Dinatrol to be the best available at the time. If Pete has found something then I would be interested in his findings as his work speaks for itself

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    Guest George's Avatar
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    Used chip fat or vegetable oil is very good for undersealing cars, much better than any product I've found anyway. I don't know how it would perform in the sills, but it might make your car smell a bit funny.

    But if you do decide to use an off the shelf product such as Waxoyl, heat it up in a sink full of warm water before hand and it will work much better.
    Last edited by George; 07-05-2007 at 08:32.

  20. #20
    Guest Egon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by George View Post
    Used chip fat or vegetable oil is very good for undersealing cars, much better than any product I've found anyway. I don't know how it would perform in the sills, but it might make your car smell a bit funny.
    heh, great till the summer comes and it all drips off!!
    I got some tinworm on the 14a so i'll be interested in this too...

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