Comprehensive S14a refurb

**Petrol** · 12-05-2007, 20:00

Originally Posted by pdh14a

those arch seams are a shock

You’re not kidding!!! It’s also more or less impossible to wire brush inside the seams. I have decided not to shotblast the shell for fear of debris inside the box sections and sills, debris being rust particles that would start corrosion on intact areas.

I sent Pete Hamber an email with a few pics and he has the solution, Deox-Gel

http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/deoxgel.html

It’s a thick corrosion remover, which can be applied to vertical surfaces. I also intend to use this on the diff and wheel bearing “carriers” It’s a better solution than blasting as you always run the risk of grit in the bearings. I have also bought some of their Deox-C

http://www.bilthamber.co.uk/deoxc.html

I was going to shotblast all the suspension nuts and bolts but this stuff will remove all corrosion and plating. It doesn’t however clean up alloy (though it doesn’t damage it) so I blasted the ally bit on the diffy pump and replaced the bolts with stainless cap screws

The rest of it will be treated with the Deox-Gel

**Chem200** · 13-05-2007, 16:33

Keep up the good work! I am going to do this to my car when i get my house sorted. Will be using this thread to keep me right so please put as much information on as possible

**Hammond** · 13-05-2007, 16:51

Excellent work mate! Just out of interest, what camera are you using?

**Petrol** · 13-05-2007, 19:59

Camera is a Nikon D70S

Chem200 I will do my best

**Lynxy** · 14-05-2007, 14:59

i got bored 3 pages ago

give me something to do

**Mr OCD** · 14-05-2007, 15:09

Originally Posted by Lynxy

i got bored 3 pages ago

give me something to do

Start ripping the engine apart

... then see how long you live

**Petrol** · 15-05-2007, 11:41

The black insert in the rear bumper is held in with 3 of these....

The problem is when you turn the nuts the plate spins in the plastic slot. Pic from back of bumper

Bit corroded

Normally I would spray on WD and heat the nut with a blowtorch until the WD boiled, then undo the nut. Since the bumper is plastic I though that might not be the best idea, so I ground the nuts back with an angle grinder being careful not to allow it to get hot. Then used pliers to remove the nut.

Threads were damaged so I ran a nut up and down a few times.

**Evilchap** · 15-05-2007, 12:57

When putting Stainless Bolts into alloy parts, and bolting everything back on when you cannot be sure the metals are the same I would suggest some Duralac, this is the stuff:

http://secure.silmid.com/action_cata...~%5E0~%5ES~%5D

It will stop them corroding up again when you come to do any servicing. Stainless might not rust, but it does corrode galvonically when in contact with dissimilar metals

**Petrol** · 15-05-2007, 13:11

Top man

Just ordered some

**Evilchap** · 15-05-2007, 13:40

Glad I could be of help. I live on a boat where I am very aware of corrosion problems

**Petrol** · 17-05-2007, 14:58

The product

The task

Mixed at 16:1 tap water to deox_c.

After 2 hours.

This is the deox gel. Can't immerse a leccy pump into the liquid

Brushed on

Wrapped in cling film to prevent evaporation.

**Richy_Boy** · 17-05-2007, 15:02

ohh that looks cool. We need to buy a club pool full of it and dip S13's - soon to be S14, S14a's into it like sheep

Rich

**j4mes** · 17-05-2007, 17:59

ooooh looks great!!! i am eagerly waiting to see the results!!!

**scimmy ben** · 17-05-2007, 21:50

Originally Posted by Petrol

The product

As that address is just around the corner for me, I could take a walk and see if there are any rusty cars in the car park

**Petrol** · 17-05-2007, 22:16

Originally Posted by scimmy ben

As that address is just around the corner for me, I could take a walk and see if there are any rusty cars in the car park

Nip round and thank Pete Hamber for his help and putting up with a fussy customer

I used hot water to mix the deox solution and things were de rusting nicely. They slowed down a bit when the temps dropped a bit though

It says in the instructions that hot water gives better results. I have put the fish tank heater in the solution to speed things up

**scimmy ben** · 17-05-2007, 22:25

Originally Posted by Petrol

It says in the instructions that hot water gives better results. I have put the fish tank heater in the solution to speed things up

I can see people in the NW just popping around for a cuppa and a derust of their nuts and bolts

Does the solution ever 'run out' of effectiveness?

**Petrol** · 17-05-2007, 22:35

Originally Posted by scimmy ben

I can see people in the NW just popping around for a cuppa and a derust of their nuts and bolts

Does the solution ever 'run out' of effectiveness?

When it's black... according to the instructions

**Mr OCD** · 18-05-2007, 06:39

PMSL...

Cling film...
Fish tank heater...

You deserve a blue peter badge Pete!

**Petrol** · 18-05-2007, 18:32

Originally Posted by Mr OCD

PMSL...

Cling film...
Fish tank heater...

You deserve a blue peter badge Pete!

LOL

Parts from the tank

**Petrol** · 19-05-2007, 20:20

Decided it might be a good idea to strip some more seam sealant off. This time it’s the turret tops. This is the NS but it’s pretty much the same on the OS

Again it all looked intact

Diff pump came out like this. It's got rid of the bulk of it and for what it's worth, I will probably shotblast the rest off. Looks like I might need the gel for the shell

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