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Thread: Comprehensive S14a refurb

  1. #1001
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I really don’t think that spraying the radiators is going to have a significant effect on their efficiency. When the boost was up, the car gave 286 HP & 286 lb/ft or torque and despite still having the WMIC, I didn’t have any cooling issues. It’s probably running around the 225 HP mark since I went back to the stock boost controller so it will be OK If I fitted a bling uprated radiator then it would probably do more harm than good by overcooling

    Any alloy parts that I can’t clean up properly will have to be sprayed, the air con pump being an example.

    As far as the clutch goes, I didn’t have any problems when the boost was up. Was that £100 for a genuine Nissan clutch?

    I wouldn’t have a clue where to start creating a PDF manual If anyone fancies doing it then feel free
    Pete


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  2. #1002
    South West Rep Evilchap's Avatar
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    £100 was actually for an Valeo item, but is holding up fine to my driving and I am at 0.9Bar

    I had the advantage of being charged two hours labour for fitting, at £14 an hour, all in was £135 and I needed a clutch

  3. #1003
    No, the other one. Pete C's Avatar
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    Personally if the 'box is coming off anyway I'd fit a new clutch for peace of mind and to save me having to take it off again. I know Bren does the LUK kits (decent OE replacement) for £135 for the S13, I assume the price for an S14 one would be similar

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  4. #1004
    Guest CrazySx's Avatar
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    I suppose if its coming apart then yes, new clutch! But i think don't do it!

  5. #1005
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    My 2 bobs- is that a clutch would be a waste of money with that mileage and power!
    Plus it'll never go anywhere again so save your pennies

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  6. #1006
    Guest Zoidman's Avatar
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    The best method I've come across for cleaning aluminum parts is glass bead blasting. It's much finer than sand blasting.

    Glass Beads are a spherical abrasive manufactured from chemically inert soda lime glass. Glass Beads are used for cleaning, finishing, light peening, deburring, sanitizing, descaling, coating removal, polishing and surface blending.

    Glass Beads produce a bright satin finish; finer beads produce a smoother non glare finish, while larger beads produce a deeper textured finish. Blasting with Glass Beads does not produce any dimension changes to the part base surface.

    I've been recommended to use Simoniz wax to protect glass blasted parts, it makes them look much better than they would if you painted them.

  7. #1007
    Guest IrishPaddy's Avatar
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    i have some questions if i may ask? no doubt you have probably answered some of them but its a hell of a long thread to pick exact things out of...

    i dont have access to a sand blaster so it will be good aul wire brush in the drill for me...

    1. when removing matirial for the underside of the car is it just the rust i should be attacking with the brush or is it everthing i intend to paint?

    2. when i have the surfaces striped/ready for paint, i should be using some acid etch primer and then some stone chip over this?

    3. Have you treated the inside of the box section with anything to remove any rust that might be in there, before you used that stuff way back there that begins with 'D'( cant remember the name of it )

    absoulutly inspirational thread...

    i have the subframe off the car, fuel tank is next.... ive just spent the the last 2 hours cleaning my rear coilovers... thought i would hate it... but it was really quite satisfying.... especially when things start to shine

  8. #1008
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoidman View Post
    The best method I've come across for cleaning aluminum parts is glass bead blasting. It's much finer than sand blasting.
    I've been recommended to use Simoniz wax to protect glass blasted parts, it makes them look much better than they would if you painted them.
    Thanks The problem is I can’t blast everything as I don’t want to get blast media inside pumps and the like.


    Quote Originally Posted by Irishpaddy View Post
    i have some questions if i may ask? no doubt you have probably answered some of them but its a hell of a long thread to pick exact things out of...

    i dont have access to a sand blaster so it will be good aul wire brush in the drill for me...

    1. when removing matirial for the underside of the car is it just the rust i should be attacking with the brush or is it everthing i intend to paint?

    2. when i have the surfaces striped/ready for paint, i should be using some acid etch primer and then some stone chip over this?

    3. Have you treated the inside of the box section with anything to remove any rust that might be in there, before you used that stuff way back there that begins with 'D'( cant remember the name of it )

    absoulutly inspirational thread...

    i have the subframe off the car, fuel tank is next.... ive just spent the the last 2 hours cleaning my rear coilovers... thought i would hate it... but it was really quite satisfying.... especially when things start to shine
    A wire brush will be fine

    1. Just the rust but clean the area you intend to paint with pre clean or white spirit
    2. Acid etch followed by a coat of gloss then stonechip would offer a bit more protection
    3. No, I just sprayed the Dynax straight in
    Pete


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  9. #1009
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    These are the bumper brackets and were painted with electrocoat (the green primer stuff) Boy is it hard after blasting for a while I gave up and decided to use paint remover



    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    Fortunately these brackets come off


    Some of these parts off the front of the car are too big to shotblast with the kit I have. Decided to go down the Deox C route. Mixed up a big tub at 10:1 ratio



    It made short work of those brackets. There’s still a bit of rust on these but an overnight dip should sort it




    Air con pump bracket was also immersed in Deox C


    Pete


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  10. #1010
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    Boy, I gotta order some of that Deox stuff... we don't have that over here.

  11. #1011
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Bracket after Deox C



    Quick blast



    It had started to corrode on this seam so I applied a bead of Sikaflex




    Air con pump



    Bought some of this stuff



    Seems to work better when the part is warmed up. You can't see it in the picture but it's steaming



    Came up like this. Note that the pipe connector has come up like brand new. I guess it's made of aluminium whereas the pump body is some sort of alloy



    So I used the plastic brush in a drill



    Needs finishing but looks like a plastic brush is the best bet

    Pete


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  12. #1012
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scimmy ben View Post
    You are going to have to create an index like Ninja Jesus Nick

    (As if you haven't put enough effort into this thread )
    First post updated
    Hope it helps (and the links work)
    Pete


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  13. #1013
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    I bought this brake pipe spanner from Halfords, as you can see it's quite deep and it was easy to remove the nuts without any damage



    Cleaned up the ABS unit




    Sprayed and lacquered it. The motor housing will be sprayed black

    Pete


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  14. #1014
    Guest IKRAM's Avatar
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    Nice job Pete
    Does the Deox C have any effect on paint and plastic ?

  15. #1015
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    Petrol might i point you in the direction of this thread http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=320457
    Wondering if this might be the magic stuff for ally?????

  16. #1016
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IKRAM View Post
    Nice job Pete
    Does the Deox C have any effect on paint and plastic ?
    Don’t think I would risk immersing a painted part as it could lift the paint. I have dipped loads of plastic stuff to remove rust stains and the plastic hasn’t been affected

    Quote Originally Posted by Leviathan View Post
    Petrol might i point you in the direction of this thread http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=320457
    Wondering if this might be the magic stuff for ally?????
    Thanks for the linky I will try some of that stuff

    This job is becoming a logistical nightmare. I have very limited space to store stuff and my office is now full of SX. It’s amazing how much space things like bumpers take up. It was too cold in the garden shed for the plating tank to work so that’s now in my office. It’s also too cold outside for the Deox C tank to be effective. Moving it into the office is not really an option as it stinks
    The plan was to clear my office as much as possible to accommodate the engine and sort this over winter, not sure I can get it through the 26” wide door though. I can’t leave it outside sheeted up

    Everything seems to be going at a snail’s pace, it’s really frustrating as I want to complete the car by the back end of 2008. At this rate it will be 2010
    Pete


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  17. #1017
    Guest 30psi's Avatar
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    Petrol dude, its a bit off topic but whilst you've been plating stuff have you seen any kits for doing chroming?

  18. #1018
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 30PSI View Post
    Petrol dude, its a bit off topic but whilst you've been plating stuff have you seen any kits for doing chroming?
    Afraid not. Frost do one but it gives a "chrome like" finish


    http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.a...Cat=&subCatID=
    Pete


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  19. #1019
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Complete it by the end of 2008 I thought it looked nearly done!
    What goes on in your actual garage then Pete?

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  20. #1020
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    Fantastic work there, keep it up.

    Would be most interested to see the front arches when you do them, especially around the turret seam up underneath where there is no protection and under the wheel arche liners, mine showing rust at the back of the turret where the innerwing meets it out of sight.

    Also noticed mud accumilates between the inner and outer wing at the back of the wing where it meets the sill !!


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