Not sure then, it should undo to the left of that red circle, off the lever, and pass out though that circled bit.
Not sure then, it should undo to the left of that red circle, off the lever, and pass out though that circled bit.
Handbrake and front cable is one piece
Welded
And rivited
Sussed it
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Fuel tank supported for removal
Lowered the jack and out it came
Behind the fuel tank
This is the worst of the rust on the N/S
O/S
N/S
N/S chassis leg under the boot cleaned up. Bit of surface rust on the seam
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
it looks easy, doesnt it
GTT's don't run with the oil cooler either & they run more power than 200's standard
Pete, Gimme a shout if you need anything galvanised
The start of another excellent thread Petrol and lynxy
Please, if you don't mind put pics up of every single step so the not so technical minded can learn.
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Parts cleaning -engine degreaser, a washing up bowl and a paintbrush
Engine degreaser also removes tar and waxoyl.
Diff cooler cover cleaned up
Fuel filler neck bracket needs some attention
Started degreasing the shell, again using engine degreaser. Best way is to work it in with a brush for a few minutes and wipe it off with a rag.
One side cleaned up
The other side to do, need to lower the brake and fuel lines first. The bolts are soaking in WD40.
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
After swilling in engine degreaser under the car all morning, a courier arrived at lunchtime, great I thought, time to get some bits shotblated and "blinged" up
There is a bit more to this plating jobbie than meets the eye There are quite a few processes to go through, the temps and PH of the solutions have to be right as does the current which depends on the surface area of the component to be plated
I hope their techie support is good
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Does anyone know how to remove these brake pipe clips without breaking them? They really need to come out but knowing Nissan, they will want an arm and a leg for them
Lxnxy has been polishing up the exhaust
Last edited by Petrol; 05-05-2007 at 07:39.
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Degreased the callipers and used 3 layers of masking tape to prevent sand getting behind the seals
Low pressure shotblast @ 60 psi, again to reduce the chance of sand in the seals, took ages though
Then brushed any loose sand off with a clean paintbrush and sprayed 1 thin coat of U-Pol acid etch primer. This needs to be left at least overnight before applying a topcoat.
That will be £164.30
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Hi Petrol, is the upol acid etch sprayed from a rattle can or from a gun?
Good work by the way
It’s a rattle can IKRAM but it’s worth noting that if you intend to drive your car hard or track it, you would be better off using a high temp calliper paint. I painted the callipers on the S13 with 1 coat of U-Pol acid etch followed by 3 coats of 2 Pack car gloss using a spray gun. They haven’t blistered or discoloured but it’s not surprising the way I drive
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Worth noting that I used high temp caliper paint on my disks hubs / calipers a few weeks ago and one track day caused the paint to blister, crack and fall off...
The calipers are now a sickly yellow instead of gold too!!!
Considering getting them powder coated!