Lets see em thenOriginally Posted by Petrol
I have quite a few update pics and a video on how to sort out a seized diff cooler pump
Lets see em thenI have quite a few update pics and a video on how to sort out a seized diff cooler pump
+1. Have you got it started yet?Lets see em then
Jim is sorting the hosting problem outLets see em then
No. I have hit a massive problem. I need a gearbox drain plug magnet before I can fill the box with oil. I thought I would bleed the clutch and fire it up with the clutch in. Can’t bleed the clutch though. I vacuumed the fluid out of the bleed nipples but the pedal just hit the floor without any resistance. Having read this thread I decided to go for the conventional method
http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.p...light=bleeding
I now have some pedal resistance and the slave cylinder moves about 10mm but having pumped 1/2 a litre of fluid through it, I can’t seem to get all of the air out. The pedal goes halfway down before there’s any resistance. Tried it with the master cylinder lid on and waiting for the master cylinder to recharge. I am going to double check that the damper pipe is parallel to the body as per the manual but I'm pretty sure it is. I really have no idea what to do now
Last edited by Petrol; 11-03-2009 at 17:56.
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Get rid of the damper....but I know the issues you had with *that* so Not sure what to suggest
I had a similar problem when I put in a new clutch, maybe it can help you out.
For some reason I had to adjust the rod that connects to the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder. I think the Factory Service Manual has the specifications for length.
Maybe that will help out some?
Keep up the good work!
I have got the braided line that does away with the damper but am not keen on bending the steel pipe from the master cylinder. I can’t see how to support the steel pipe where it connects to the braided either. That’s why I got the Nismo pipe.
Done a bit more reading and found it’s best to lock the slave cylinder. Preventing it moving results in more fluid being pumped out. I have bled it some more and the other thing I have found, and this is why it’s so difficult to bleed the damper, is that the pipe from the master cylinder is a much smaller bore than the damper pipe itself. When you press the pedal, only a small amount of fluid is displaced. This makes it much more difficult to expel air in the large bore damper pipe. I have now reduced the slack pedal travel to about 20mm but have used another ½ L of fluid. The plan for tomorrow is to jack the car at an angle to assist the bubbles to rise out of the damper pipe. I bought 1.5L of fluid for the clutch and brakes. Looks like I will end up using the lot on the clutch.
I didn’t think to adjust the push rod as I have refitted the same clutch, maybe that will help. There are lots of things I can’t get my head around with this clutch actuating system.
I vacuumed the fluid into the lines from all 3 bleed nipples and the pedal just hit the floor and wouldn’t return. At that point though, the master cylinder was creating some pressure, as the slave cylinder was moving slightly. Why wasn’t there some resistance in the pedal?
Why does it take so long for the master cylinder to refill when bleeding the system? You can press the clutch in rapid succession when everything is working OK
Nissan obviously thought the damper pipe was necessary otherwise it wouldn’t be fitted. WTF does it do though?
Oh and just to add more confusion to an already confusing situation. I stored the S13 for 6 months, it never turned a wheel. I got in it and depressed the clutch and guess what…. The pedal hit the floor and stayed down. I thought WTF – total fluid loss. Lifted it up and the pedal was solid again, then drove it home. Explain that one
Confused? So am I
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Mine was a right arse to bleed aswell. I just kept at it for a long time bleeding the bottom 2 nipples, then did a few sessions on the master cylinder nipple and it seemed to work ok...
Confused me for ages too, i just stuck at it though.
it is a case of rinse/repeat unfortunately pete - though it is possible to bleed with the damper in place, it's a lot more time consuming
did you bleed it at the top master cylinder too?
i wouldnt bother adjusting the clutch pedal until you have good feeling where it is.
white '94 s13 200sx scrapped - mapped to 1.45bar. OS giken box, garrett GT2876R, 950cc injectors, ORC twin plate, nistune. 349bhp/325lbft @ 1.3bar CA18DET
white '96 s13 180sx - type g with more kouki bits- RB25DET, GTR steel twin turbo conversion, RB26 crank & rods. 2.6L VVT twin turbo, SR20 OSG box, OSG STR twin plate clutch, Z32 ECU w/ nistune.
current status: 180 a bit broken but to be repaired.
I'd just like to take this opportunity to sympathise...
I fooking hate hydraulic clutches
1993 [L] RS13 200SX
2003 [53] MX-5 Angels
2004 [04] E63 645i
SXOC Member #199
It’s alive!!!! Started first time
As far as bleeding the clutch goes I took your advice and kept at it. I vacuumed the nipple on the damper and tapped the pipe. That seemed to help a lot. I now also hate hydraulic clutches
I took the plugs out and cranked it over with the throttle fully open until the oil light went out. Then I cranked it for another 10 seconds. Put the plugs back in and it started no problem. PAS pump was whining a bit because I hadn’t bled that properlybut that only took a few minutes to sort.
Thanks for your help and advice
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Can you sort out photobucket or something for some temporary pictures and videos...?
May I be the first to say congrats on getting it running though!!
iv found the best way to bleed clutches is to bleed it back. get an oil can fill it with brake fluid, put a hose over the end so it can be attached to the nipple , pump the fluid upto the nipple and open it and this will fill the cylinder up. always works
Good ideaiv found the best way to bleed clutches is to bleed it back. get an oil can fill it with brake fluid, put a hose over the end so it can be attached to the nipple , pump the fluid upto the nipple and open it and this will fill the cylinder up. always works
Flanges on the de cat are mild steel
If you immerse stainless in Deox C it pits it so I did this
Polished the tube and sprayed the flanges
Fitted
Clutch pipes on
Prop on
Headlights on
This is what I made up to bleed the clutch and brakes
Last edited by Petrol; 28-11-2009 at 10:23.
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
What kind of pump is that that you used to bleed your brakes? looks interesting. How does it work? just by creating a vacume in the jar?
^ you can do it by connecting one of the lines to nipple on inlet manifold with the engine idling instead of a pump , works well (if you have a working engine , haha)
Another good tip
I got it with a kiddies paddling pool. You can use it to vacuum all the air out for storage.
This is how I clamped the slave cylinder
The pump in use
Finaly clear fluid came out
Last edited by Petrol; 28-11-2009 at 10:25.
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Excellent.
Why didnt you bin the bypass loop on the clutch and just run a braided line from master to slave cylinders
I bought a braided line from a trader on here that does away with the loop but it retained the original steel pipe from the master cylinder. The steel pipe also had to be bent to suit. A bit of a bodge in my book. I think it’s important that the connection between the steel pipe and the braided hose should be supported. The pipe I was supplied with had no facility to do this. The bottom line is, if you have an unsupported steel pipe connected to a flexi pipe, the steel pipe will work harden and ultimately failWhy didnt you bin the bypass loop on the clutch and just run a braided line from master to slave cylinders
Does a trader on here supply a pipe that runs straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder?
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
I don't know if anyone does one off the shelf, but could hose solutions not make one up?Does a trader on here supply a pipe that runs straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder?
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