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Thread: Comprehensive S14a refurb

  1. #2001
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdh 14a View Post
    Why don't you just ask for a good condition undertray Pete
    Does one exist? Can I have yours

    Quote Originally Posted by sroberts View Post
    Pete does it need to be OEM? Or will you allow yourself scope for improvement

    Si
    It doesn’t need to be OEM at all, that’s why I have taken a mould of it – to try to improve it
    Pete


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  2. #2002
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    Why not go with a simple full width sheet of ally, it would keep the engine bay clean

    Si

  3. #2003
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    Carbon doesn't fray if you cut it with a diamond wheel. I use a small wheel on a die grinder/demel, you can you normal cutting discs but they with wear very quickly. Carbide bits at a very slow speed is best for drilling.

  4. #2004
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post
    Does one exist? Can I have yours :
    You want this!


    If you were quicker,i did sell an immaculate one a month ago though

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  5. #2005
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by diamondsink View Post
    Carbon doesn't fray if you cut it with a diamond wheel. I use a small wheel on a die grinder/demel, you can you normal cutting discs but they with wear very quickly. Carbide bits at a very slow speed is best for drilling.
    Cutting carbon sheets is no problem. Cutting dry carbon fabric is a different kettle of fish though

    Quote Originally Posted by pdh 14a View Post
    You want this!

    If you were quicker,i did sell an immaculate one a month ago though
    Just my luck. If anyone has one in perfect condition, please drop me a PM. Tell you what, your car looks in amazing condition




    Despite being told it can’t be done, what I have decided to do is attempt to wet lay one in full sheets of CF material. No pieces, no joins. If it all goes horribly wrong (and I will know after the first layer is applied) it’s only going to cost me a Sq M of carbon fabric, gelcoat & resin. Working with CF is nothing like working with fibreglass and I am looking at this as a learning exercise. At least I have the mould to make another out of fibreglass. I appreciate that CF is probably not the best material in terms of durability for such a vulnerable part, but the car isn’t going to see much action.

    Next job is to fit the exhaust. Back cat pipe is stainless but the mild steel flanges were corroded. I dipped them in Deox C like this


    Edit: Jim, what have you done? I can’t upload piccys
    Pete


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  6. #2006
    South West Rep Evilchap's Avatar
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    Oh.... perhaps try oversized carbon, and put tape where you want to cut, and cut that No fraying

    Kevlar sheers are your friend

  7. #2007
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    I tell you what my friend, you have some serious skills!!! Been quietly looking at this thread since i joined the SXOC, im still gosmacked at the detail and committment thats been put into this car, its awesome, best bit of internet reading iv read. Although i cant see how you can drive it again, i mean its cleaner than my dinner plates.

    I have a question though, whats the best way of removing waxoyl, existing sealant and paint off the underside of the car? I was planning on attacking with degreaser and a drill with a wirebrush fitted.

  8. #2008
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Thanks Pete! the box has been painted since that pic,and the oil weep from the bolt has been sorted!
    Theres probably some good ones still around!

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  9. #2009
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evilchap View Post
    Oh.... perhaps try oversized carbon, and put tape where you want to cut, and cut that No fraying

    Kevlar sheers are your friend
    Ok Cheers


    Quote Originally Posted by TarmacTerrorist View Post
    I have a question though, whats the best way of removing waxoyl, existing sealant and paint off the underside of the car? I was planning on attacking with degreaser and a drill with a wirebrush fitted.
    The best way to remove waxoyl is to use white spirit. Heat gun and scraper for the sealer, and wire brush for the paint

    Quote Originally Posted by pdh 14a View Post
    Theres probably some good ones still around!
    I know there are, seen a few in the metal
    Pete


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  10. #2010
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Getting close to firing it up now. Fitted the exhaust and induction kit today. I need some PAS fluid though, nipped into Halfords but came out with nothing as there were loads of different types. The shop assistant was unsure of which type I needed. Manual says the recommended fluid is Dexron. I thought you just used auto transmission fluid

    If anyone could shed some light on the technicalities of PAS fluid I would appreciate it. I also need some brake fluid, seems there are lots of that and all I understand dot 4 and 5 but what’s this synthetic stuff?
    Pete


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  11. #2011
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post

    I know there are, seen a few in the metal
    I meant the undertrays and they are plastic

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  12. #2012
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    Dexron or equivilent STP is a good fluid to use 0.9 ltr IIRC brake fluid standard dot 4 is ok, or use synth dot 5 for track use (I use synth dot 4 in my racing S13 with no ill effects)
    Hope that helps.
    P.S. any chance of me raging this round a circuit when it is finished

  13. #2013
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by muttley View Post
    Dexron or equivilent STP is a good fluid to use 0.9 ltr IIRC brake fluid standard dot 4 is ok, or use synth dot 5 for track use (I use synth dot 4 in my racing S13 with no ill effects)
    Hope that helps.
    P.S. any chance of me raging this round a circuit when it is finished
    Thanks. I phoned Opie and they sorted me out This is what I am using.


    Engine - Silkolene Pro - S 5W-40
    Box and diff - Silkolene Silktran Syn 5
    Power steering - Motul DEXRON III
    Brakes - MOTUL RBF 600 FACTORYLINE DOT 4 100% synthetic (lasts longer)
    Antifreeze - Castrol

    Raging it round a track
    Pete


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  14. #2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by Petrol View Post

    Raging it round a track
    I'll take that as a yes then

  15. #2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by muttley View Post
    I'll take that as a yes then



    Got loads done today

    Propshaft is on
    Clutch pipes are done
    Diff is full of oil. I ran the cooler pump and had to top it up
    Engine coolant is in
    Engine oil is in
    Just need some PAS fluid and I can fire it up.
    Pete


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  16. #2016
    Guest TM_S13's Avatar
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    good news

  17. #2017
    The Welsh Whinger! pdh 14a's Avatar
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    You must be like an 8 year old on Xmas eve! hope it still works

    You only need two tools in life - wd-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the wd-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

    And if you can't fix it with a hammer,you've got an electrical problem!

  18. #2018
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    you truely are an insperation to all. the whole project in amazing. you have inspired me anyway, i have just decided to sort out the surface rust on the underneath of my 200 so thankyou.

  19. #2019
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    I might bob round shortly for a look Pete. Would I have to be wrapped in cotton wool?

  20. #2020
    Member Petrol's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdh 14a View Post
    You must be like an 8 year old on Xmas eve! hope it still works
    Not really, I’m $hitting myself in case nothing works

    Quote Originally Posted by luke8494 View Post
    you have inspired me anyway, i have just decided to sort out the surface rust on the underneath of my 200 so thankyou.
    Good stuff As time goes on, decent examples will be hard to find.

    Quote Originally Posted by SNURDF View Post
    I might bob round shortly for a look Pete
    Anytime mate although it’s probably best if it’s not raining, I don’t want to get it wet



    I have quite a few update pics and a video on how to sort out a seized diff cooler pump
    Pete


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