S15s don't have then at all...
S15s don't have then at all...
I could do to strip the rear hubs down for shotblasting but don't want to be messing with wheel bearings and pullers. If I remove these 4 bolts from the hub, can I just pull the drive flange off?
Thanks
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Yeah, but it isn't always easy to get the things out of the upright
Interesting, utter madness in my eyes, I cannot understand why anyone would remove one myself. SM did and then had immediate problems on track, which isnt a surprise. Nissan thought it was needed on a standard car, let alone something that is putting 2 or 3 times the torque through the diff..... One of the skyline boys rigged up a light for each cooler, so when it was being used the light came on, they all came on with some "light" European touring....suffice to say, mine will be staying.
anyway, sorry for going off topic.
Lot easier to give it to the spanner monkey to do then lol
Let lynxy have some fun
There are a lot of parts that Nissan deemed necessary which I have opted to remove
The diff oil coolers are pretty pointless, if you actually look at the operating parameters in the FSM you'll see that it doesn't operate unless you're driving at over 75mph and the oil is over 130 degrees!
Argument is inconsistent here...
Ben and the S15 Type Rs use torsen LSDs
SM uses a Viscous LSD
The oil in the viscous LSD is used in a much different way to that in the Torsen and it WILL get hotter. I would suggest that the viscous LSDs need a cooler but 14s should have the switching points adjusted/ overridden for track use.
I guess that is a pretty extreme set of parameters, more the temp rather than the speed.....guess it may be over kill as yours is clearly ok after a fair few years.The diff oil coolers are pretty pointless, if you actually look at the operating parameters in the FSM you'll see that it doesn't operate unless you're driving at over 75mph and the oil is over 130 degrees!
Even so, think I will keep mine.....might even upgrade it to a 19row one to be sure!!!
I need to replace the rear disks but will probably lacquer them to prevent corrosion
The diff high temp light illuminates at 180C, if Ben hasn't had a problem with the HP he is running, then it’s not really needed. If anyone has a diffy rad in good nick I would be interested – mine looks a bit “shabby” I want to re fit the diff cooler parts for the “factory look”
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Good tip that, thanks
Good job I stripped em. Anyone got a backplate without a hole in it?
Most of the parts are off to be professionally shot/bead blasted. Parts that require a bit of care I will clean up myself like the drive flange. Don't want dirt getting inside so I have made a temporary seal out of tubing.
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
Fuel tank heat shield, looks like I am going to have to weld some pieces in
Fuel tank is a work of art
Needs to come out though
This is the problem
How do I get the handbrake cable out? I have unbolted everything. Do you pull it out from inside the car?
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317
What bit of the handbrake cable are you struggling with?
Just hotwire the fuel pump, with a legth of fuel hose on the outlet, into the S13
Everything is disconnected underneath but can't see how to get the cables out It says in the manual to undo the adjusting nut but the plate at the end of the black outer cable, is riveted to the handbrake mechanism
Good idea to get rid of the fuel
Pete
SXOC Member Number : 317