I didn't want to rely on friction - theres huge loads going through the crownwheel on drive and decelleration - as soon as anything starts to come lose it could be a disaster...
I didn't want to rely on friction - theres huge loads going through the crownwheel on drive and decelleration - as soon as anything starts to come lose it could be a disaster...
Yeah, I was of the same opinion/paranoia but the guy who built it assures me it'll be fine.
fair enough - but for the sake of £15 I got tubes made up
same as what matt said, just tighten them as tight as theyll go
Any ideas where to get suitable tube for the spacers? I still haven't got round to building my diff up
The plumbing place only had 15mm O/D pipe and I didn't fancy cutting and bending that (was enough of a faff downsizing it by 1mm for shock-bushes)
I got the spacers made up at a local engineering place. They're pretty thin (0.5mm wall IIRC)
It's 12mm down to 10mm isn't it?Originally Posted by Jez
I was sort of hoping there'd be something at B&Q that'd do it.
B&Q sell steel tubing that's 12mm OD x 10mm ID for about £1.20 a metre.
i used spacers they are not 12mm to 10mm they are 13mm to 12mm
someone that fited a s15 hlsd used ford starter motor pieces.
in my case i had them custom made
i recomend the folowing readings before proced with the install:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=169151
http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showth...highlight=hlsd
for fixing the nuts/bolts i used loctite 243 , torqued them to the value specified in the manual, i hope it will last at least few years from now on.
btw how offten should the diff oil be changed? (car is used as dayly drive and at the and on the week 1-5 drag races)
Last edited by ByReaL; 21-01-2007 at 19:31.
in my case there is a bad part. i have ordered from over a month the gasket that i need to close the diff case and it didn't arive yet and i have no hope i'll receive it, so i bought loctite 518 "glue" used for sealing gearboxes diff case oil bath... without needing a gasket (can fill up to 0.5mm gap, resinstant from -50 to +150 'C),
what is your opinion on using no gasket and replacing it with this tipe of "glue" ? anything bad can happen when no (i'll use that loctite glue instead) gasket is used?
Last edited by ByReaL; 21-01-2007 at 17:34.
I don't know the details of that type of loctite; but the gearbox housings, and engine sump are just sealed with sealant rather than a gasket.
i have torqued this bolts to 40Nm and used some loctite i hopte this will be enough.
no gasket was use to close the diff case only loctite, the job was finished today. i'll wait untill tomorow night and then i'll put oil in it, and over the weekend it will be installed on the car. i hope it will improve my 0-100 time and i also hope that i'll not have to hear anymore the diff wistling witch is quite anoying on long jurneys.
the diff is on the car, i had not time yet to test it properly , but there was no problem driveing the car from the work shop to my home.
now my transmision is almost ready for the next racing season
Drive between crown wheel and pinion cage is entirely due to friction. The bolts are a clearance fit in the crown wheel holes and the holes in the pinion cage are fully threaded.
Only way to get drive though a bolt is to use fitted bolts, these have a ground part on them that fits like a dowel in holes reamed though both parts. Usually fitted with nuts but blind holes with have thread on smaller diameter than the ground portion. If they used fitted bolts you wouldn't be able interchange crown wheels as holes don't line up accurately on parts that haven't been reamed as a fitted set.
Bolts are not so good in shear anyway. High torque couplings where friction can't cope use a hirth or curvic joint.
http://www.amcprecision.com/v-tooth.htm
It's ESSENTIAL to use thread lock and seal (loctite) on the bolts like it says on page PD-24 (UK S13 manual). Clean bolts and threads with iso-propanol (or brake/carb cleaner) before applying thread lock.
yesterday i had my first test , and pushed him hard,
tried to have a standing start at diferent rpm and they were a total disaster.
i have 225/50-ZR16 dunlop sp9000 tires,
SPEC stage 3 cooper/ceramic clutch
before installing the HLSD i reved the engine somwere betwen 4000-5000 rpm (acording to drag strip condition), and louched (engaged the clutch), i got a verry small wheel spin and the car started to move verry fast forward.
now with the HLSD if i rev the engine above 4000rpm , when i engaje the clutch the car start to jump from here to there (a feeling that can be asociated with the ABS feeling when you brake hard).
the good part is that when i reved the engine to 6000 and lounched, i only found on the strip 2 black marcks (from the tyres) not longer then 50cm (but my start is fuked up, i must find a new start tehnique otherwise i'll have a bad 1/4mile time with this diff not a better one as i expected)
this tail jumping is it normal with a HLSD, how can i cure it?
-more power to the wheels?
-standard suspension is to soft? and a more rigid suspension will cure this?
-other ideas?
-precharge the transmision using the handbrake?
Last edited by ByReaL; 09-03-2007 at 10:31.
revive a little fit the thread, i do not believe the jumping of the car is because of the HLSD. and maybe someone will read it an think the HLSD may have some negative effects
i have found 2 subframe bushes broken, so i have replaced all bushings with powerflex ones, and now it is way better but not completely cured, now i believe socks and springs should be changed to (18 years on the current ones may be enough maybe is time for new ones)
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