I was going to use the S15 plug part of the loom (on the engine side) so I can attach the plug to the S14 loom so it fits straight on to my S15, as I assumed the connector was different to the F4 on the 15.
If the S14 F4 plug is the same as the 15 one, I can swap the pins and use that I guess...
Mitch, both F4 connectors are the same. There are two different size pins in the connector so we will only run into problems if a large one needs to go into a small pin hole, BUT ive just checked and it looks to me that the larger pins are for the wipers and aircon (we don't need a/c) at least on the S14 one. The S15 one has a lot of Auto stuff as well. So if John aggrees we should be ok to just re-pin the S14 F4 connector to meet the wires in the M60 Connector on the S15.
Don't wait on me, I was sort of thinking that was what you were going to do anywayOriginally Posted by V-MAX
Mitch, both F4 connectors are the same. There are two different size pins in the connector so we will only run into problems if a large one needs to go into a small pin hole, BUT ive just checked and it looks to me that the larger pins are for the wipers and aircon (we don't need a/c) at least on the S14 one. The S15 one has a lot of Auto stuff as well. So if John aggrees we should be ok to just re-pin the S14 F4 connector to meet the wires in the M60 Connector on the S15.
If the pins don't come out, or are the wrong size to swap over, just cut and splice the wires.
Oh and heatshrink is great stuff for covering soldered wires (beats electricians tape by miles)
Mitch, you asked for a list of wire colours for each connector. I have added those to Johns sheet.
John please take a look and check for deliberate mistakes
By the way John I noticed a small mistake on one of the sheets I sent you, on the S15 M60 View pin 30 should be Pink-Black, i had it as Purple-Black for the cooling fan.
OK Ive just realized I don't know how to attach that file onto this post!I will have to e-mail it to John to put up (and check
) It's getting close now (I hope...)
why the hell did'nt you just put a rb into it, custom the mounts and you can get perfect weight balance.
John, I'm going to need your help with the NATS on this.... Please
I looked at your S13 guide and the part I think I need is what wires from the IMMU plug to the F4 to connect to? And where do they go when they meet the M60 S15 Plug? M60 - pins 17,25 are NATS signal and ground but we have 4 NATS wires from the S14a IMMU connector?
And yes about putting an RB in it... If I had my time again thats what I would do
Because on looking around the workshop, I didn't have one kicking about...whereas there were a load of SR bitswhy the hell did'nt you just put a rb into it, custom the mounts and you can get perfect weight balance.
Top tip: Don't just take all the wires off the plug before realising that there are some duplicate colours
I'd stuffed up on one of the wires
The wire (S14 pin 40) that I'd had going to two destinations, don't (or it'll do wierd things), just take it to pin 9 on the S15 connector.
It just ups the revs a bit when the rear window heater is on (IIRC - depends what you wire to it as a 'load' signal). It's not essential in the slightestOkay mate, I'll rewire that just to pin 9
Also, what does the "Load" cable do? There isn't one on the S14 engine loom that I have...
I spent the weekend getting the rest of the car ready, so once the re-pin is done I am ready to turn the key! If all goes well it should happen sometime this week, there will be noise one way or the other, either from the engine running or the ECU exploding
Cheers for your help on this John, your a star
Mitch, there is a plug on the wires running from the S14 Engine harness that runs behind the rad overflow bottle and joins to the front harness that is slghtly different on the S15. The S14 has a 2 wire plug and the S15 has a 3 wire plug, ive checked and the smaller blue black wire is for the aircon bottle so can be discarded, so ive just got to work out which way the remaining 2 wires should go.
OK so the re-pin is donealmost
John if you read this, I have one concern? Having found S14 pin 40 (F4) which should go to S15 pin 9 (M60) the pin 40 is a very thick heavy duty wire which lives at the larger pin side of the plug and the pin 9 is one of the smaller ones. My concern is has the larger one been designed to flow more current? and will we be ok with joining this to a smaller wire?
I have looked at the two sheets showing these from both service manuals and it does look like the natural swap? but why the difference in wire thickness? And do we not need pin 41 S15 (M60) Batt feed? I see you are using s14 pin 32 to go to s15 pin 2 ECM relay, will that take care of the Batt feed normally done by s15 Pin 41?
Cheers
Well... the re-pin is now done and the NATS is spliced in and ready to go...
BUT - When you turn the key nothing happens
When I turn the key through position 2,3 I get clicks from the relays in the footwell fusebox, but the engine bay fusebox starter relay doesn't click? Tried changing this but no different.
If I bridge the starter motor it spins.
When key is turned fully there is no sound from the fuel pump which Iv'e read you are supposed to be able to hear? There is no power at the fuel pump plug but there is at the fuel gauge plug. and this is working on the dash.
Iv'e checked and cleaned up all the earths I can see.
The dash powers up and displays odometer, oil, battery, clock and fuel level.
Things that do work are, power windows, central locking, wipers.
I found a domestic market fitted immobilser and thought that was it, but when removed it was still the same...
Anyone got any ideas??? ANYONE
I'll look over the wiring thickness when I get a chance tomorrow, but something is amiss as the starter is not part of the conversion wiring.
When you turn the key it connects (via a fuse) 12V onto the starter solenoid, which throws out a cog onto the flywheel and engages a direct wire link to the battery (no fuse involved).
None of this wiring is linked to F4 or the ECU.
If the starter doesn't spin, you've either not put the gearbox harness on the new engine properly, there's a popped fuse or the battery is near flat
The ECU will prime the fuel pump for 1 second, provided it gets power on ignition turn on. Have you got a multimeter handy?
To answer a few points...
Yes battery is fully charged and still on charge whilst on the car.
The immobiliser was re-bridged, it was easy to see what they had done - even for me
On the re-pin there is s14 f4 wire 30 goes to s15 m60 pin 1 (If i remember correctly) that say's start signal, this is wired in ok.
I can check the fuel pump voltage when someone turns the key... I think I have done this yesterday but i will check again to be sure.
You mentioned the gearbox harness: I have the starter and alternater on correct, I am sure about that, BUT i don't have the other gearbox connectors wired into fusebox as I thought that was just stuff for the previously Automatic gearbox, such as neutral position sensor speed sensor etc.. (That stuff is still on the Auto box, which I still have)
BUT now I am wondering does the ignition think it is in D for Drive and thats why it won't fire?
I will fit this part of the harness tonight. Time permitting (something planned)
Could this be the problem?
Will report back asap
Cheers
If it was previously an automatic, then there's an inhibitor switch linked to the auto shifter that stops you starting the car when it's not in park.
If you've gone for a manual conversion, then you'll have to bridge this wire link - well you do on the S13 - it's by the fusebox in the engine bay.
ok, last night found the inhibiter plug and soldered two wires together and it still wouldn't fire the starter motor
I need to have another good look over everything but not possible today or tomorrow.. Too much work at work
I read a thread on here about a guy with a similar problem and in the end they fitted a push start button to by-pass the key, he never found out the problem?
I'll keep trying
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