Oooh is it getting close ?
Oooh is it getting close ?
Its gone!
There's not a lot of your engine left
moving on with the build, installed a totally new brake system, bias adjustable peddle box with 6:1 ratio with no servo assistance Apex k-sport 356 fronts and rear z32 hand brake conversion with 330 k-sport rears, all new piping got dash mounted gauges that tell me the pressure going through the front and rear curcuits helping me to ballance the brakes
oil system finished just not sure if i need an oil cooler with the dry-sump system, just need to sort out a breather vent system as even at cranking speeds i get massive vacume from the 3 savaging pumps
fuel systems finished and cooling system just needs a few hours, then i need to Finnish installing the link ecu which is harder than you think
Still using the Neo head mate?
awesome build
There isnt really many options for cam position is there? the s14 360 cas wont fit so you have to track down a 20v cas iirc.
excuse my ignorance but why do you need cam position with this race engine anyway.
Wouldnt most people just use crank triggering only in this application to keep it simple?
Have you decided what ecu you will be running?
I was thinking of replacing the washer on the bolt that holds the vernier cam sprocket on with a single toothed timing wheel with a pin into the cams key way , problem is which signal is required first crank or cam position
Reading about your gauges to "help with brake balancing" and I'm a little miffed.
How will it help with brake balancing as the rear circuit will be different to the front purely due to the fact that the car weighs different amount both ends. Weight transfer means less braking force is on the rear. And the rear brakes are a different size too.
What are you actually trying to achieve with this?
Genuinely interested. Not having a go or anything.
im not sure if you realise im using a pedal box with 2 master cylinders connected to the brake peddle with an adjustable ballance bar and the gauges will indicate the effect adjusting the ballance has by showing the alteration in front/rear hydraulic pressure which has a direct effect on braking, save a lot of blind trial and error
might want to change your wording then (miffed where i'm from means a bit pissed off) :P
as mentioned because he's not using an off the shelf master cylinder, which has a fixed ratio for Front:Rear braking, that can only be modified by fitting a restriction valve to the front or rear (or both) to modify the amount of fluid transfered for a particular pedal pressure (and therefore the braking effort front or rear) a pedal box does this all in board, by having seperate front and rear master cylinders, it's possible to make massive adjustments (ie, disconnect the bar and you could technically have 0 front braking and therefore 100% rear, or the opposite) there's a lot more margin for error and tweaking.
Having gauges is a quick way of being able to document and reference / reset if required. rather than guessing that it felt best at half a turn here, or a tweak there, it means he can say at x psi front and x psi rear it was good, so if he deviates from that to try and get it a little better, it's easy to reset to where it was if it doesn't improve the feel.
also makes it easy to make tweaks for different tyre compounds etc etc. i think it's a good idea and just another example of the lengths taken to make this a stupid, stupid build love it.
Why did you go with that design of Manifold out of curiosity?
worded so much better than i can
so much easier to make it twin scroll. but mostly i wanted straight runners into the turbo, the turbo in an open space so easy to change to a different type, and loads of room for the alternator that's been move to accommodate the oil pump, shorter more direct route to the charger cooler, less abrupt exit for the exhaust gasses from the turbo, there's more but these will do for now, ok then 1 more the radiators in the boot so loads of room
well the brake pedals made of cheese, got up to 800psi and it bent what a pain in the bum to strip off, need to get some plate to make it more ridgid,
a couple of pics showing how much variation in braking force you can get with a bias adjuster peddel box, after plating up the peddal after it bent,
left hand gauge is fronts, right rears
next job is finnish the throttle mods then install the Link ecu im putting this bit off as long as i can